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The Colt SAA is a favorite of mine. They are accurate, light for their power, good looking, easy to shoot well, & point very well.
On top of that they are one of the prettiest six-guns to ever come down the pike. Just don't try to hot rod them you will bulge a cylinder. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Hot rodding is what Rugers are for. :D I never got a SAA clone. I guess my cap and ball Pietta 58 Remmy sorta fills that niche for me, especially since I got a .45ACP conversion cylinder for it. It's a weaker frame than the SAA, though. I wouldn't wanna even fire my "light" .45 colt I load for my Ruger, which would be fine in a Colt, in it. It's a 255 flat nose with 8.3 grains Unique. The .45 Colt conversions suggest cowboy loads only. I already loaded 200 grain cast lead in .45ACP for my Ruger KP90DC and it's light enough not to stress the Remmy's frame. Very accurate in that gun, too. It's fun to play with, black powder or .45ACP.

BTW, cap and ball is a whole nuther subject, but on the Colts, leaving one empty is still your best safety bet.

qy7gb8.jpg
 

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Colt SAA

Load one, skip one, load 4, cock & lower the hammer you will be on the skipped empty chamber if you've done it properly.

NEVER LOWER THE HAMMER FROM HALF COCK! You will almost certainly put the unsightly turn ring scratch on the cylinder if you do.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
My Remmy's conversion cylinder is a five shooter and has 10 notches for the lock in the cylinder. Every other one lets the hammer be lowered between chambers while the cylinder lock locks it between chambers. SO, scratch away, it's necessary. But, those scratches between cylinders never bothered me.

The cap and ball cylinders hold 6 and have safety notches between cylinders in which to hold the nose of the hammer preventing it from rotation. It's quite safe to carry this way. My 51 Navy has a different arrangement, little dimple between chambers on the back of the cylinder between nipples. It fits into a small hole in the hammer. It does hold the cylinder from rotation, but the cylinder can be forced because the little dimple isn't very big. I feel a lot safer with a Colt hammer down on an empty nipple/chamber, personally. But, I don't shoot that Colt much. The Remmy or my Ruger Old Army (cylinder like the Remmy) are far more accurate and fun. I can hit stuff with 'em. :D That Colt shoots WAY high and it's hard to judge elevation.

Cap and ball guns are great fun and Pietta makes a fine revolver. They often go on sale at Cabelas and tempt me out of my money. I got that Remmy for $179, about a hundred bucks off, cheap as I've ever seen it on sale, I just couldn't hang on to my money. :D But, I'm not really complaining.
 
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I've heard of people trying to lower the hammer between caseheads in the chambers of SAs. It sounds like a thin reed to me & I don't do it. I load one, skip one, load 4, cock & lower the hammer on the empty chamber.;)
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I've heard of people trying to lower the hammer between caseheads in the chambers of SAs. It sounds like a thin reed to me & I don't do it. I load one, skip one, load 4, cock & lower the hammer on the empty chamber.;)
Your instincts are right, only load with the hammer on an empty chamber with ANY authentic SAA clone. The Heritage, however, has a Rugeresque transfer bar system. Ms. Sekol says it's got an authentic 4 click action, though, which is important to purists. I, however, would appreciate that transfer bar. The Heritage is assembled from Pietta parts, too. That one is on my radar at the moment. :D
 

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Your instincts are right, only load with the hammer on an empty chamber with ANY authentic SAA clone. The Heritage, however, has a Rugeresque transfer bar system. Ms. Sekol says it's got an authentic 4 click action, though, which is important to purists. I, however, would appreciate that transfer bar. The Heritage is assembled from Pietta parts, too. That one is on my radar at the moment. :D


Yes & with the Ruger New Vaquero we can load 6 safely.
They are a pretty nice six-gun & pretty close to Colt overall size.
A dream to pack!;)
 

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Native Texan

That is a beautiful six-gun. Rugers are hard to beat for a tough six-gun & I don't remember the last one that didn't shoot at least pretty well.
Congratulations & thanks for sharing that one. The Stag stocks are awfully nice too, I like stag.
 

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Load 6,
holster,
cock fully while holstered,
Wrap retention strap around gap in frame and hammer and snap down.
Ya can't hit the primer with a piece of leather in the way.
 

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Load 6,
holster,
cock fully while holstered,
Wrap retention strap around gap in frame and hammer and snap down.
Ya can't hit the primer with a piece of leather in the way.
True, but if the trigger is tripped while the revolver is holstered you've got a bit of a problem to solve when you want to draw. ETA: Besides which, drawing a fully-cocked single action revolver from a holster isn't something I'd care to do.

Most single action revolvers now use a transfer bar, or a retractable firing pin mechanism (I can't really think of any single actions that use a rebounding hammer)-- that requires the trigger to be held fully back for a firing pin to strike the primer of a loaded round. For these types, an empty chamber under the firing pin is a not much more than a nod to tradition or complying with a sport's rules.
 

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Cocking and holstering a SA revolver is nothing at all like carrying a 1911 cocked and locked. You have two separate safeties on a 1911 and that's the way the gun is designed to be carried. There are just too many bad things that can happen carrying a revolver with the hammer back, no matter what you have across the back of the gun.
 

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Load 6,
holster,
cock fully while holstered,
Wrap retention strap around gap in frame and hammer and snap down.
Ya can't hit the primer with a piece of leather in the way.
With a transfer bar equipped gun (non 3-Screw Rugers and EAA Bounty Hunters), that's no problem.

You don't do that with a Colt Single Action Army or replica because the hammer's lowered onto a live primer and that's a negligent discharge looking for a place to happen.

I've been shooting single actions for decades and I think I'll keep loading 5 and lowering the hammer on the empty chamber. (Load 1, skip one, load 4. Move the hammer to full cock and lower the hammer on the empty.)
 

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Load 6,
holster,
cock fully while holstered,
Wrap retention strap around gap in frame and hammer and snap down.
Ya can't hit the primer with a piece of leather in the way.
With a transfer bar equipped gun (non 3-Screw Rugers and EAA Bounty Hunters), that's no problem.

You don't do that with a Colt Single Action Army or replica because the hammer's lowered onto a live primer and that's a negligent discharge looking for a place to happen.

I've been shooting single actions for decades and I think I'll keep loading 5 and lowering the hammer on the empty chamber. (Load 1, skip one, load 4. Move the hammer to full cock and lower the hammer on the empty.)
I'm not saying to lower the hammer at all. I'm saying carry cocked with a holster that blocks the hammer with a retention strap. My father has one on his highway patrolman and you can carry and draw the gun already in single action. No reason you couldnt do the same with an SAA
 

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Load 6,
holster,
cock fully while holstered,
Wrap retention strap around gap in frame and hammer and snap down.
Ya can't hit the primer with a piece of leather in the way.
True, but if the trigger is tripped while the revolver is holstered you've got a bit of a problem to solve when you want to draw. ETA: Besides which, drawing a fully-cocked single action revolver from a holster isn't something I'd care to do.

Most single action revolvers now use a transfer bar, or a retractable firing pin mechanism (I can't really think of any single actions that use a rebounding hammer)-- that requires the trigger to be held fully back for a firing pin to strike the primer of a loaded round. For these types, an empty chamber under the firing pin is a not much more than a nod to tradition or complying with a sport's rules.
if the trigger can be tripped while in the holster then you need a better holster.
 

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Cocking and holstering a SA revolver is nothing at all like carrying a 1911 cocked and locked. You have two separate safeties on a 1911 and that's the way the gun is designed to be carried. There are just too many bad things that can happen carrying a revolver with the hammer back, no matter what you have across the back of the gun.
the trigger being covered by the holster and the retention strap blocking the hammer IS two safeties. Being able to draw with your thumb on the hammer is even safer.
 

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I'm not saying to lower the hammer at all. I'm saying carry cocked with a holster that blocks the hammer with a retention strap. My father has one on his highway patrolman and you can carry and draw the gun already in single action. No reason you couldnt do the same with an SAA
Talk about an negligent discharge waiting for a place to happen. That sounds even sketchier than carrying a Gluck by shoving it into your pants without a holster.

If you're going to have your thumb on the hammer while drawing, then why not just thumb it back as you draw? That's how I draw single action revolvers and cock the hammer as the muzzle goes forward and I 'close' my fist around the grip of the gun.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I'm not saying to lower the hammer at all. I'm saying carry cocked with a holster that blocks the hammer with a retention strap. My father has one on his highway patrolman and you can carry and draw the gun already in single action. No reason you couldnt do the same with an SAA
Talk about an negligent discharge waiting for a place to happen. That sounds even sketchier than carrying a Gluck by shoving it into your pants without a holster.

If you're going to have your thumb on the hammer while drawing, then why not just thumb it back as you draw? That's how I draw single action revolvers and cock the hammer as the muzzle goes forward and I 'close' my fist around the grip of the gun.
Wow, well, I'll stick with accepted safe procedure. It's how I was instructed to carry my Hawes when I was a teen. Of course, most of my single actions are Ruger's anymore. I still carry hammer down on an empty chamber just to stay in the habit. Ain't like I need a fast draw either. I carry DA revolvers or autos for serious social interaction.
 

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Wow, well, I'll stick with accepted safe procedure. It's how I was instructed to carry my Hawes when I was a teen. Of course, most of my single actions are Ruger's anymore. I still carry hammer down on an empty chamber just to stay in the habit. Ain't like I need a fast draw either. I carry DA revolvers or autos for serious social interaction.
I consider a SA very serious - especially if it's drawn on me :D
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I consider a SA very serious - especially if it's drawn on me :D


But, do you carry a SA revolver for self defense in public? By circumstance I have and a cap and ball .44 at that, but I don't make a habit of it. My 9s carry a few more rounds, if nothing else.
 
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