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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hope I'm in the right section.
I recently bought a 617, 357 and really like the feel of it. The problem is this: the first trip to the range Loaded up 7 rounds and took 3 shots. On the 4th shot i got a bit of a splatter out of it and the cylinder jammed. When I opened it up, I found a sliver of copper off the bullet had wedged between the cylinder and the barrel. I removed it and everything seemed fine. I took a couple more shots and it did it again. I ran some 38's through it with no problem and figured it might be the ammo. It was 158 grain jhp's. I put some 158 grain jsp's through it with the same results.
It fires the 38's with no problem but i just doesn't like the 357's.

Is this something that I should concider sending back to Taurus for repair?

I like this gun but at this point, wouldn't trust it as a carry piece.
 

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If your getting splatter, and slivers of metal between the cylinder and the forcing cone. I would say it needs to be fixed ASAP. It sounds to me like the forceful 357's are pushing the cylinder out of timing somehow, and the 38's are not. Did you check for motion in the cylinder while it is closed, without the trigger pulled and again when you pull the trigger. (unloaded of course).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I did check the cylinder motion and it's very tight. seems like it's aligned good hard to tell the close specs on it. The sliver always hits at the top of the forcing cone.

When i send it in for repairs, what do you think they'll do for it?
 

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thomasm4 said:
I did check the cylinder motion and it's very tight. seems like it's aligned good hard to tell the close specs on it. The sliver always hits at the top of the forcing cone. When i send it in for repairs, what do you think they'll do for it?
I am not an expert, by any means. But if the sliver of bullet is at the top of the forcing cone, it would seem that the force of firing is pushing the cylinder up and back. Now whether it is the crane, the cylinder its self, or if the whole thing is not locking up tight, only a gunsmith could tell. But if you decide to send it back, tell them exactly what is happening, and where that sliver comes up. It should not do that, something is loose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OK... I finally got off my duff and walked out to the garage for a feeler guage. I checked the spacing between the forcing cone and the cylinder. Doing a spec check on the internet, I found that somewhere between .002 and .006 is optimum. .002 being on the the tight side.
My new 617 is at .008. I can start the tip of a .009 blade into the gap but would have to force it to get it in farther. Don't want to do that.
Could this be the bulk of the problem?
I did a cylinder check and everything else is tight. there is minimal movement if any with the trigger pulled and the hammer down. No fore and aft movement at all that I can detect and the same with side to side movement.
Am I on the right track here? And should I include this spec on the work order sheet when I send it in for repair?
 

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thomasm4.... have you sent yours in yet for repair? i am having problems with my new 617 too. my 617 will not rotate properly. it hangs up on 2 chambers with 357's loaded. i also noticed a shaving lodged in the barrel after my first 30 rounds thru it. i have cleaned mine and still have binding problems. let me know what you are gonna do about yours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
sorry it took so long to respond. had some major computer problems.
as for the 617, it seems that it just doesn't like heavy loads. it will fire the 38's fine and i've started feeding it lighter 357's. 125 grain loads or lighter. i talked to the dealer i bought it off of and to the customer service people. they both said the same thing. "Try different ammo". so i did. have only put about 50 rounds of the 125 grains through it so far, but it does seem to make a difference. and from what i've read on other sites, the lighter loads tend to deliver more energy on target than the 158 grain bullets. has something to do with speed. I do like the 617, but not quite ready to trust it in a LOD situation.
 

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Do you people have the titanium or steel frame 617????? If you have the ti gun,take it to your dealer that you bought from and get the steel frame gun. thats what I had to do because the cylinder face warped after shooting 158 factory remington loads jsps thru it. The steel frame is no problem now. richgp100z,Omaha,Ne.
 

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Boy I wish I had found this web site before I bought a 617. I just sent mine to Taurus today. First seven rounds of 125 jhp the new gun fired no problems. Second load fired three times and would not fire on double action. Fired fine on single action. On third load, cylinder bound up. CS at Taurus said to try different ammo. I asked what did they recommend? She could not/wouldnot recommend ammo so they got it sent to Miami. I'll let you know how it works out.
 

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Just a follow up on my 617. It arrived back from Miami today. It was attached to a note that said an adjustment was made. I'll make a trip to the range Saturday and see how it fires.
 

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OMG,,, 3 bad revolvers in one Thread!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! thomas, don't fire this weapon any more !!! Send it back, I can't believe a dealer told you it may be ammo on this problem!!!!

L.G.
 

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Actually, the usual cylinder gap specs are .002"-.010". On a heavy recoiling load, the .002" gap may cause heat-related binding.

If the revolver has ceased shaving lead with the lighter loads, I would suspect that it will be OK for a while. It's the heavier loadings that seem to cause problems in a lot of guns. The 125 gr. JHP loads are considered the best anti-personnel loads for the caliber.

Not every gun will be accurate, reliable, or durable with every load available. It doesn't mean that there is anything wrong with the gun.
 

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Any revolver should shoot a factory load without binding, though, or shaving rounds or anything stupid like that. Might not be accurate, but a factory round should fire every time without issue. Have it checked by a smith or the factory if it is doing that.

Hope they got 'er fixed. You did the right thing getting it looked at. I'd have let a good revolver smith go over it, myself, but can't knock using the factory warranty.
 

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it will fire the 38's fine and i've started feeding it lighter 357's. 125 grain loads or lighter.
It would appear that it works quite well with the lighter loads. It may have had to do with a burr in the action, or some chips. Cleaning everytyhing, or simply the act of firing, could have cleaned them out.
 

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thomasm4 said:
I did check the cylinder motion and it's very tight. seems like it's aligned good hard to tell the close specs on it. The sliver always hits at the top of the forcing cone.

When i send it in for repairs, what do you think they'll do for it?
It is TIGHT when checked by hand. When the high pressures generated by the 357's is applied, not so tight and not timing correctly would be one good possibility. Other critical specification may be out as well.

The ammo comment by the gun shoppe fellow? Possible --- but not likely (very unlikely). For your personal safety it needs to be evaluated before firing again. The gun shop was obviously NO help, so get the proceess started via Taurus. Use the ON-LINE FORM at their web site so you include all info they require. Carefully detail the issue and IF possible to do so safely you MIGHT consider a controlled firing so pictures can be taken if the issue. Don't risk your hands, eyes etc to get pictures, Simply detail - detail - detail the issue and send it off after requesting (polite demand) that Taurus pick up the shipping costs. They should and if they do not mention it - you do do with conviction!

Good luck.
 
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