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Discussion Starter #1
Came across a possible deal that comes with a caveat.

40 Cal New Primed Brass Clearance 1000ct (Primer issue)

The brass is new, the primers are installed, the primers may be 90% effective. With a primer there's no way to know which may be defective. Everglades claims their testing showed about 10% failed to ignite.

For someone looking desperately for both primers and new brass for plinking/load development (like me) these could be right up your ally. I was trying to pick up some once fired 40S&W brass when I encountered these. I've ordered 2000 of them If nothing else I got new brass at a reasonable cost.
 

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Heck, YES ! Get them, pop the primers (LEE Universal Decapping die) load and shoot and don't look back. I would jump on them except I am thinning the herd and have a sale lined up for my 44Mag.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Heck, YES ! Get them, pop the primers (LEE Universal Decapping die) load and shoot and don't look back.
Actually, I’m going to do a controlled test. I’ll try seating the primers deeper with my FA Perfect Prime hand primer, then load a ladder. I’ll do the same with cases that I don’t attempt to reseat. Then I’ll compare success rate in each. I have plenty (sufficient) SPP from a variety of makers, so I can dedicate these strictly to testing and development. I don’t shoot competition, so all of my range time is recreational.
 

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My primed brass arrived yesterday. Looks great. Reseated 150 primers yesterday, but honestly, I think it was all wasted effort. These primers are well seated and there wasn't a single case that I felt I got movement...so much for hoping for high primers to explain the 10% potential failure to ignite.

Nonetheless, these cases are intended for ladder testing for new powder/projectile combinations, until they become "once fired", then I'll keep them in a separate rotation to see what kind of case life I get.

Had one case that was cut far too short...it wouldn't even reach the expander stem in my die...pulled the primer for other use. Discovered the flash holes are beautifully formed and centered. Very nice. They actually looked polished - anyway, no jaggies inside or outside. If I had a flash hole reamer it would need to retire.

Case expanded beautifully, bullet seating was effortless, and final light taper crimp was smooth and satisfying. I made up a 30 round ladder with CFE-Pistol and my 135gr Sinterfire bullets. According to the seller I should expect around 3 primer failures. I just hope all 3 don't line up in the same ladder step. Will look to fire these first loads shortly...but heading to King's Island for the day with my granddaughter.
 

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That's a great price for new 40 brass. $99 minus the value of the good primers makes it well under $10 per hundred cases. Weeding out the bad primers would eventually end up in having to pull bullets which is time consuming but well worth it IMO. If nothing else, you could always test them like Bugs does.

 

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Discussion Starter #7
I made it to the range to test my first ladder...135gr Sinterfire frangible bullets with CFE-Pistol powder. It was an interesting experience, made all the worst as I don't have a chronograph, and I'm shooting indoors. I have 2 pistols in 40 S&W, a Springfield Armory EMP 3" barrel, and a Beretta PX4 Storm 4" barrel. This was my first test of CFE-Pistol with the 135gr Sinterfire. I made up 10 rounds each with 4.9gr, 5.1gr, and 5.3gr, all on the low side for a 180gr projectile (the 135gr SF bullet is longer than traditional 180gr projectiles). I then shot 5 of each, low to high, from each pistol. During the case prep, I attempted to reseat each primer on the press (Hornady LNL Classic Single Stage). I detected no movement of the primers.

Without all the boring details:

Springfield EMP - the loads were quite soft, and I experienced multiple primer failures, 4 out of 5 failing primers fired on the 2nd or even 3rd strike of the hammer. Good malfunction clearance practice. One round endured 5 strikes without igniting...I'd even turned the round in the magazine and tried to fire it again. Happily, the pistol seemed to like getting rid of the last round, as it locked back the slide each time. In the end, 14 of 15 rounds fired, eventually, in the EMP. Sadly, there's no way to distinguish when a primer will ignite beforehand.

Here's where it gets interesting...

Beretta PX4 Storm - every round fired without issue. 16 of 16...the extra being the round that refused to fire in the SA EMP. There were no repeat strikes...every primer ignited on the first attempt. Now, the loads felt even softer firing out of the Beretta, and I had multiple failures to eject/load, whereas I had none of these problems in the SA EMP.

The problem with the SA EMP is one I've experienced since I purchased the gun. Light Primer Strikes, even shooting factory ammo. However, these primers looked like they were getting a solid strike...nice, deep indentations, yet they failed at a higher than expected rate, while the same rounds in the Beretta PX4 Storm had no ignition problems at all.

All in all, quite the interesting outing, but I need to develop a new ladder, perhaps starting at 5.4gr or 5.5 gr and working up.
 

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Interesting, if it were any gun other than the EMP having light strikes, I'd suspect hard primer cups, but obviously not since you had some good hits and they didn't go off. Call SA and ask to have a steel firing pin and spring sent to you to replace the titanium one. Don't let them tell you that they need the gun sent in. Tell them that you have already removed the FP so they know you're capable of doing it yourself. As for the primers, I wonder if pulling a dozen or so new ones for comparison might show a difference. When mine show up next week I'm going to do just that.
By the way, how deep in the case do those 135's seat? My experience with CFE-Pistol shows that it performs best when loaded at or near max charge. One of the best SD loads for my TH40 is 6.7gn CFE-P behind a 165gn Gold-Dot, and 5.8gn behind a 180gn Gold-Dot. I'll get an exact seating depth later to compare with the depth of your 135SF.
 
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