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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
lee sends a makarov push thur die with their buldge busting kit instead of luger. Dont know why, l like preping brass.

Bought a arbor press at harbor freight $53 out the door.





l put longer lever on, bolted it dwn. Gotta machine a die holder but this washer works.
 

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The Bulge buster only works with straight wall cases. The 9mm Luger is tapered. On their site it says you can use the 9mm Makarov Factory Crimp Die for 9mm Luger. I'll have to ponder that.

Bulge Buster Kit - Lee Precision
 

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My GUESS is, at the point where the 9mm luger might bulge, it should be the same size as the Makarov. Or vice verse.

Key word: guess
 
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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
This is a base swage kit, not really a buldge busting kit. They should call it a base swage kit like Redding does.

Lee sells the makorov die if you call and request their bb kit. It takes a lot of force for some. Swages back to around 0.397

I love base swaging, it pays back later. De-cap, swage, ss wash. l decap in designated lee loadmaster super fast, Then base swage in arbor press because big "D" RCBS pess took way to much pressure with lee buldge buster kit. Found the improvement on castboolits.

So many are confused about base swaging. Redding dont even offer 9mm swage kit, unless you call.

Finished ammo runs better and goes in factory spec cartridge gage too, which most people do not do either. They will when they get older and retired, hehehe. Nice brass around here.
 

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gunoil

Do you push your cases head first, therefore pushing the bulge toward the open end?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
In the arbor press the mouth goes in first and l check each head stamp before mashing it thru. I have alot of range brass to go thru, so i toss headstamps l dont want. I decap before case base swaging. Then wash.

l do 45's too.





jesus freak i am.
 

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Thanks gunoil

I'm thinking about machining a pusher, to push from the inside, and push the head through first. Anyone see any problems with this?
 

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I recommend sectioning 1 case from each brand so you can profile the pusher tip to not damage the inside of the cases. Also make sure the pusher does not alter the flash hole by removing some metal in the center (.010 or so).
 

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Am I the only one that doesn't understand a word being said here? It's like they are speaking Greek. OK, I can take a hint, I'm leaving.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
l know Redding and Lee push the headstamp. Keep in mind Lee sell makorov die to base swage. That die takes much more pressure to push thru. Its in saami specs.

lets face it, many do not do this or use a cartridge gage for 9's or 380/45, etc.. l enjoy preppin brass and it does help.

I think if lee used 9mm die instead of mak die it would not go down small enough @ thick brass base. wiki show's .392 and .391 (9mm) on other @ base. I may have a 9mm FCD here. l'll try both but its so close it dont matter.

The pros have a roller base swager, this is poor mans way but has my ammo happy and gaged. Lil' pistols want same all the time. My TCP never fails with my reloads. Yes, one time i did some 380 brass but not needed. Get real nutty in august, the SS check is coming. hehehe.

I have other name on this thread below: lts all good too:

http://forums.loadmastervideos.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=23594#23594

If you use arbor press for base swaging and gas check seating its just better all around and you dont put un/necessary roughness on your expensive press's you have bought. (arbor press 1 ton @ harbor freight).

lf you run a lee loadmaster vist: mikesreloadingbench.com (l have all his stuff)


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