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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

New shooter here so excuse if my lingo isn't correct yet.

I've run about 300 rounds at the range over the past few weekends and the gun has been shooting great for the most part but I'm experiencing what feels like a trigger reset while getting close to the end of my 17 round clip.

When this happens, it throws me off and causes me to flinch because I'm expecting the break and it does happen when I'm expecting it to. I spoke to the gun store I purchased it from and they're willing to help me figure out why this is happening with Taurus.

Has this happened to anyone?
 

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Welcome aboard from the "GunShine"state of Florida.


State of over 2 MILLION 21 THOUSAND Concealed Carry Licenses and counting!

Focus on the front sight not the trigger break,
 

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I'm not sure, but it sounds like something that a lot of G2 and G2C guns have. Although, this is the first I've heard of it on a G3. See if this sounds like what you've got:

I got my first PT-111 G2 in November 2015, and really liked it! Feels good, looks good, a great manual safety, and has really good capacity for a small carry weapon. The only thing I didn't like about it was that it had a distinctive “click” or “hitch” as I pulled the trigger back in single-action mode before I reached the break. The "click" that I'm talking about isn't so much heard, as that it is felt in your finger. Back then I thought perhaps this was normal for this gun, thinking that the trigger had to move past some linkage in the area where it would engage the striker in the “double-action/second-strike” mode.

Friends that tried it sometimes thought that it miss-fired when it “clicked” without firing. I had to tell them to keep pulling. You could even feel the click when the gun was broken down, and you pulled the trigger on the grip alone.

I still liked the gun though. So much so, that I ordered another one in February 2016. I get the new one, and guess what.....No Click! That's when I realized that there's something wrong with my first PT-111 G2.

After chatting with other members on this forum, I suspect that the problem is with the trigger safety-blade. Apparently the spring tension on the safety-blades of some PT-111's are inconsistent with others, causing the blade to resist retraction, and the safety mechanism to rub against something when it does retract, resulting in a "click".

Sliverbullit said: “It's the trigger safety. Turn it upside down, and watch as you pull the trigger. Bet you will see the hook on the safety barely catch the edge of the trigger. I filed the edge of the hook, and it is 90 percent better.” You can search for Silverbullit's “Fix for trigger click or catch” thread on this forum.

Ledbeter36 said: Read my post - “Observations on pt111 g2 after complete disassembly”. I point out some things you can do, and filing is a good fix.”

Before I did a full disassembly as Ledbeter36 recommended, I wanted to try something less drastic. So here's what I did. I tied the trigger safety-blade down on the trigger with a small zip-tie, then heated the grip, inside and out, with a hair-dryer, trying to direct the heat to the trigger blade safety and inner workings of the trigger. Then I let it set a couple hours. I did this several times, and then let it sit for a week with the zip-tie still on. When I finally took off the zip-tie, the "click" was gone completely. I thought the click might come back after a few weeks, but it's been a couple years now and the trigger still works fine.

In March 2019 I got a new G2C, and I wondered if Taurus had fixed their trigger “click/hitch” problem. Nope, it's still there. I did my zip-tie/hair dryer trick, and now my G2C works great too!

There seems to be an even bigger problem with a small percentage of PT-111's (approx 5% I estimate). Some people complain about the trigger being “extremely” hard to pull. Some have even broken off the trigger safety-blade completely. I wonder if the broken safety-blades that some people are experiencing is caused by blades with even stronger spring tension than mine, preventing the safety mechanism from retracting at all. As the shooter pulls harder on the trigger, the blade breaks off. If that happens, all you can do is send it back to the factory for repair.

Try my zip-tie/hair-dryer trick and see if that helps.
If not, you can try Silverbullit's or Ledbeter36's recommendation.
BTW, I would NOT use a “Paint remover” type heating gun. That may cause permanent damage.
Good Luck!

P.S. Welcome aboard, from Las Vegas!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm not sure, but it sounds like something that a lot of G2 and G2C guns have. Although, this is the first I've heard of it on a G3. See if this sounds like what you've got:

I got my first PT-111 G2 in November 2015, and really liked it! Feels good, looks good, a great manual safety, and has really good capacity for a small carry weapon. The only thing I didn't like about it was that it had a distinctive “click” or “hitch” as I pulled the trigger back in single-action mode before I reached the break. The "click" that I'm talking about isn't so much heard, as that it is felt in your finger. Back then I thought perhaps this was normal for this gun, thinking that the trigger had to move past some linkage in the area where it would engage the striker in the “double-action/second-strike” mode.

Friends that tried it sometimes thought that it miss-fired when it “clicked” without firing. I had to tell them to keep pulling. You could even feel the click when the gun was broken down, and you pulled the trigger on the grip alone.

I still liked the gun though. So much so, that I ordered another one in February 2016. I get the new one, and guess what.....No Click! That's when I realized that there's something wrong with my first PT-111 G2.

After chatting with other members on this forum, I suspect that the problem is with the trigger safety-blade. Apparently the spring tension on the safety-blades of some PT-111's are inconsistent with others, causing the blade to resist retraction, and the safety mechanism to rub against something when it does retract, resulting in a "click".

Sliverbullit said: “It's the trigger safety. Turn it upside down, and watch as you pull the trigger. Bet you will see the hook on the safety barely catch the edge of the trigger. I filed the edge of the hook, and it is 90 percent better.” You can search for Silverbullit's “Fix for trigger click or catch” thread on this forum.

Ledbeter36 said: Read my post - “Observations on pt111 g2 after complete disassembly”. I point out some things you can do, and filing is a good fix.”

Before I did a full disassembly as Ledbeter36 recommended, I wanted to try something less drastic. So here's what I did. I tied the trigger safety-blade down on the trigger with a small zip-tie, then heated the grip, inside and out, with a hair-dryer, trying to direct the heat to the trigger blade safety and inner workings of the trigger. Then I let it set a couple hours. I did this several times, and then let it sit for a week with the zip-tie still on. When I finally took off the zip-tie, the "click" was gone completely. I thought the click might come back after a few weeks, but it's been a couple years now and the trigger still works fine.

In March 2019 I got a new G2C, and I wondered if Taurus had fixed their trigger “click/hitch” problem. Nope, it's still there. I did my zip-tie/hair dryer trick, and now my G2C works great too!

There seems to be an even bigger problem with a small percentage of PT-111's (approx 5% I estimate). Some people complain about the trigger being “extremely” hard to pull. Some have even broken off the trigger safety-blade completely. I wonder if the broken safety-blades that some people are experiencing is caused by blades with even stronger spring tension than mine, preventing the safety mechanism from retracting at all. As the shooter pulls harder on the trigger, the blade breaks off. If that happens, all you can do is send it back to the factory for repair.

Try my zip-tie/hair-dryer trick and see if that helps.
If not, you can try Silverbullit's or Ledbeter36's recommendation.
BTW, I would NOT use a “Paint remover” type heating gun. That may cause permanent damage.
Good Luck!

P.S. Welcome aboard, from Las Vegas!
Thanks for the Welcome!!!

I don't want to do anything drastic to the pistol at this point being that it's under warranty and I'd really like for Taurus to go through 100 rounds to check this issue out. I'm am very technical and good with repairing most things but I've never done anything with guns before so I'm in learning stage at this point. I'm glad I'm able to take it apart and clean it at this point. lol

When I take it apart to clean it, I will follow what you described to see if it's the same but after thinking about the mechanics of this gun, I do feel like the mechanism that allows single action vs double action is somehow being affected by the explosiveness of this 9mm. Just a thought but whatever is causing it, I just want it fixed because it's throwing me off on my follow through on the trigger pulls (something I'm trying to perfect while aiming).
 

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I only have about 150 rounds through mine now, but no issues like what your describing.
 

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Welcome to the forum from Northern Oklahoma.
 

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I don't want to do anything drastic to the pistol at this point being that it's under warranty and I'd really like for Taurus to go through 100 rounds to check this issue out. I'm am very technical and good with repairing most things but I've never done anything with guns before so I'm in learning stage at this point. I'm glad I'm able to take it apart and clean it at this point. lol

When I take it apart to clean it, I will follow what you described to see if it's the same but after thinking about the mechanics of this gun, I do feel like the mechanism that allows single action vs double action is somehow being affected by the explosiveness of this 9mm. Just a thought but whatever is causing it, I just want it fixed because it's throwing me off on my follow through on the trigger pulls (something I'm trying to perfect while aiming).
Some G2 people sent back their guns to Taurus to get rid of the click, but Taurus said there was nothing wrong with the gun.
My zip-tie/hair dryer trick won't void any warranties, so try that before tinkering with the innerds.
 

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Welcome to the forum from Northern Illinois! I would think it's unusual for the hitch to show up late in the session. Good luck with the pistol.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
@777Driver, Ok cool. Still haven't had time to clean the gun but I'll give it a try this week.

Thanks for the welcome guys!
 

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I kinda know how you feel. My G2 has a JT SAO trigger and this stock one on the G3 is throwing me off. You have to move past where you think it might reset and condition yourself to kool ade man that wall smoothly.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Adamwest, What I try to do in order to overcome it is follow thru with my trigger pulls so that I'm bottoming out the trigger regardless of this happening so that I don't flinch.
 

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Vague to say the least trigger reset is there a "JAM" is there a "ISSUE" functional wise or just a reset click follower popping back into place? bur in magazine holding up follower for a moment then releasing it. So much that can be which is minimal , As long as functionality is not interrupted is that the issue?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Vague to say the least trigger reset is there a "JAM" is there a "ISSUE" functional wise or just a reset click follower popping back into place? bur in magazine holding up follower for a moment then releasing it. So much that can be which is minimal , As long as functionality is not interrupted is that the issue?
I don't have the click some of the others described when I pull the trigger. I'm sending the gun into Taurus so they can test everything and go thru a clip to see if the mechanism are getting disrupted somehow. I've only had it for a month so I'll let them look into it.

Thanks for the help folks.
 

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Vague to say the least trigger reset is there a "JAM" is there a "ISSUE" functional wise or just a reset click follower popping back into place? bur in magazine holding up follower for a moment then releasing it. So much that can be which is minimal , As long as functionality is not interrupted is that the issue?
G3 triggers are light years better than G2(C) but the wall at the end is rigid. They deleted that security hole and made the striker guide yellow vs the orange they were before. The G3 trigger is now a full safety Glock ripoff with subtle "visual" hints of slight curve JT/KT but not JT/KT at all. That being said that wall is more prominent than the G2(C) but just a hint of sponge at the extreme end. It's not as horrible of a distance before break but its a weird not so linear at the verry end feel for a striker gun. 1st few shots were super low and I had to laser bore it to see if I was really that horrible of a shot.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Vague to say the least trigger reset is there a "JAM" is there a "ISSUE" functional wise or just a reset click follower popping back into place? bur in magazine holding up follower for a moment then releasing it. So much that can be which is minimal , As long as functionality is not interrupted is that the issue?
Functionality isn't hindered but it's definitely throwing me off when I'm shooting.
 

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Functionality isn't hindered but it's definitely throwing me off when I'm shooting.
Are you able or have shot a G2C yet? That way you can be sure it's not just the entire G2 experience all together? After trigger swap it was better and Striker guide SS install. On that note, how do you clean the gun? G2&3 the striker guide channel have to be cleaned with a Q tip if you got too much solvents for cleaning in there. My Glock and SD weren't as sensitive about this. I skipped a few times on my G2 since the round count is low for the 4 months I wasn't actively shooting it and found rust in there.
 

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My G2C had a similar thing going on.

What I found was that the trigger safety blade was catching on the frame. The same place that the blade safety catches when you try to pull the trigger by its edges, and the blade safety prevents the trigger from going all the way back.

In my case, I only felt it when dry firing, but when shooting under normal force, I didn't notice it. It was a mild 'catch'.

If you're problem is the same as mine, perhaps you've got a little more material from the blade safety catching onto the edge of the frame. Take a look and see.

I didn't need to do anything, but you might need to do a little filing so the blade safety doesn't catch the frame - but still prevents the trigger going back when unengaged.
 

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My G2C had a similar thing going on.

What I found was that the trigger safety blade was catching on the frame. The same place that the blade safety catches when you try to pull the trigger by its edges, and the blade safety prevents the trigger from going all the way back.

In my case, I only felt it when dry firing, but when shooting under normal force, I didn't notice it. It was a mild 'catch'.

If you're problem is the same as mine, perhaps you've got a little more material from the blade safety catching onto the edge of the frame. Take a look and see.

I didn't need to do anything, but you might need to do a little filing so the blade safety doesn't catch the frame - but still prevents the trigger going back when unengaged.
G3 trigger doesn't use that hook style anymore It's Glock like where it stops the trigger on the outside vs inside the frame. The safety is also wider so it's not a tiny sliver to try and repeatedly push in the same exact way on follow up shots.
 
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