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Hi all,

I am beginning to remove the over spray from the internal metal pieces...and I notice there are little black dots. (see picture) is this normal? how can I get rid of them?


Sent from my rooted Moto X (2014).
 

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In most cases the surface of the part doesn't need to be manufactured mirror smooth. The small pits in the surface are normal and won't affect function. You really only need to worry about the actual points of contact where parts are rubbing against each other.
 

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A good polish can elevate a gun. But an incorrect polish can remove too much metal and turn a good gun into a paperweight.
Don't polish things that don't need it and only enough to reduce friction as needed.

MIM parts are made from powdered metal pressed together and is slightly porous. No need to worry.
 

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well put and with that being said i recently purchased a pt1911 duotone ... what would a good polish job consist of what parts should and shouldnt be polished what should i use to polish and as a novice is this something i can attempt myself or should i leave it to a gunsmith
 

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well put and with that being said i recently purchased a pt1911 duotone ... what would a good polish job consist of what parts should and shouldnt be polished what should i use to polish and as a novice is this something i can attempt myself or should i leave it to a gunsmith
First, congrats on the new gun! Next, shoot the gun 500-1000 times or dry fire and full rack it twice that. (I dry fire as ammo is too $ to waste on a green gun). Then detail strip out all the guts and look for wear marks on all moving parts and pivots. Right there is the break point for many with the "detail strip". If the thought of taking each and every fiddly as part out gives you a cold clammy sinking feeling - then taking it to a 1911 specialist (not just the guy at the gun shop!) And be sure to test his work on several guns BEFORE handing over yours!

I am NOT a gun smith and NOT a 1911 expert, so I won't give my opinion on what to polish beyond generic "stuff rubbing", however do STAY AWAY from the sear and hammer interface. 2 reasons. Mucking that up can lead to an unsafe gun, even a gun that goes full auto and some parts are only surface hardened. Polishing them can lead to very rapid wear.

For polishing, I use wax compound on a 6" rag wheel in a bench grinder. Just a few seconds to smooth out the surface, NOT mirror bright. Small stuff w tight areas gets a polishing cone on a dremel using the same compound. Equipment, materials and supplies will cost about what a pro will charge (or more!), so unless you have more guns / uses the pro may be less costly and will give a better result.

If you are the adventurous type and still want to go for it, youtube has a lot of detail on exactly what to do and how to do it, use at your own risk!
 

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A lot of 1911 folks do what is called a fluff and buff to remove any sharp corners and edges on the outside. But be warned, it will make your Taurus look like it was carried 20 years. I was going to refinish mine so it doesn't matter. Search "dehorning" a 1911. That is what some call it.
 
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