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If you are looking at "tinkering" with your PT1911... whether it is changing parts or perhaps polishing the hammer or trigger... or refinishing the gun, it is helpful to have a plan for disassembling the PT 1911


Taurus Schematic for PT1911

Detail stripping of the frame

  • Remove the slide from the frame.
  • Remove grips. The right grip is a necessity since you can't remove the right ambi-safety without it. The grip screws are 3/32 hex headed screws. The allen wrench included with the PT1911 is for the rear sight only, so you will need to hunt up the correct wrench
  • Remove right side ambi safety. This can be accomplished by slipping a thin knife blade under the safety and working the right side lever up and down while pulling away from the frame. Once a sufficient gap is made, it is possible to insert a small screwdriver blade next to the pin and pry it out. Do not attempt to pry or force the lever from the end most distant from the pin, as it is easy to bend or break the lever. The first time it may be difficult, but there is only a compression fitting with the right grip holding the safety in place.




  • Remove left side safety by cocking the gun and moving lever up and down while pulling out to the left. The safety can only come out when the gun is fully cocked. Find a rubber band to hold the grip safety in place because once you remove the left safety, the grip safety will be free.



  • Manually decock the hammer, being careful not to let it strike the frame. Damage to both the frame and hammer can result. Using either a pin punch or a Brownell’s Mainspring Housing (MSH) Pin Tool, drive out the MSH pin from the dimpled side, usually from left to right.



  • Slide the MSH out. The first time may be difficult because there is no lubrication applied. You can help the process by cocking the hammer which will force the MSH down. Remove the grip safety.
  • Remove the three fingered flat spring which provides trigger return, sear tension, and grip tension. The spring is held in place only by the grooved slot at the bottom of the frame. Remember how this spring lays in place for reassembly.



  • Use a 3/32” punch to drive out the hammer pin from right to left. Catch the hammer lever once the pin is removed.


  • Remove the sear pin from the right to the left. Be careful to catch the sear, disconnecter and the sear lever. Take careful note of the two levers (hammer & sear) and their position because you will have to reassemble them in the same relationship.



  • Remove the magazine release by simultaneously depressing the release while gently turning the magazine catch lock counterclockwise. The catch lock will disengage from the frame and the tab will turn into the body of the release. Be sure that the lock tab is fully cleared from the frame recess. Push the release out to the right.
  • Remove the trigger bow from the rear of the frame. The trigger can be relatively fragile, so be careful not to crush or deform the bow, or cause the shoe to be moved on the bow.

Disassembling the Slide

  • Turn the slide upside down. Use a 3/32” punch to depress the firing pin. Once it is clear of the firing pin stop, slide the stop away from the slide and release the firing pin from the slide. Remember that the firing pin is under spring tension, so do not fire it across the room.
  • Push down on firing pin plunger, then depress firing pin.
  • Remove the extractor by inserting a punch (or better yet, a non-marring nylon tool) into the firing pin stop groove and pulling rearward. Some extractor hooks are too wide to clear the breech face, and can be removed by gently pushing on the extractor hook at a 45 degree angle to the breech face (ie. Rearward and out from the axis of the slide). Use a non-marring nylon tool to avoid damage to the extractor and breech face.
  • There should be no need to remove firing pin plunger and spring.

Reassembly:

  • Reinstall the trigger into the frame. Install the magazine release from the right. Lightly depress the magazine release while gently turning the magazine catch lock clockwise. As the release moves to the right, the catch lock tab will engage the frame recess. Be sure that the lock tab is fully engaged in the frame recess.
  • Insert a small punch from the right to the left through the sear pin. Noting carefully the position of the sear lever (4.16 Trigger Block Lever), insert it and maneuver it so that the punch goes through the hole.
  • Lay the disconnecter with the shovel (the flat end that engages the trigger bow) end down, and seat the sear on it with the nose facing up. Place the assembly into the frame with the head of the disconnecter in the frame hole and the shovel end on the rear of the trigger bow. Use the punch to stabilize these two parts in place along with the sear lever.
  • Insert the sear pin, pushing the punch out and ensuring that the sear, disconnecter, and sear lever are engaged on the pin and the tip of the bottom of the sear lever down to touch the trigger bow.
  • Align the hammer with the pin hole and install the pin with the hammer lever in the correct position on the right side of the hammer. Leave the hammer forward (decocked). Move the trigger bow to check that the sear (trigger bar) lever engages and moves the hammer lever (4.17 Firing Pin Block Lever). If it does not, remove and properly reinstall the components.
  • Place the sear spring with the bottom end in its frame slot. Check that the leftmost finger is laying ON TOP of the left sear leg, not underneath it. You can pull the trigger to check for proper movement. The Taurus PT1911 has adjusted the weight of the trigger pull to acceptable levels (below 5 lbs), however realize that the trigger weight is controlled by the tension of the sear spring and the trigger spring. Lightening them can reduce trigger weight BUT lightening them too much can cause the gun to go into full auto. Too little sear weight and the hammer will not engage the sear. Too little trigger weight will cause the trigger to fail to reset. Don't try adjusting this until you understand exactly what you are doing! Trying to go below 4 lbs. of trigger weight is the work of a 1911 qualified gunsmith. After adjusting this flat spring, always load your first magazine with one bullet to see that it works, and the second magazine with only two bullets to make sure it doesn't go full auto on you.
  • Push the MSH halfway into place to secure the sear spring (some light lubrication may help this task). Place the grip safety in position, and align the hammer strut in the recess inside the grip safety. Slide the MSH into place to engage the two tabs on the bottom of the grip safety, ensuring that the hammer strut enters the MSH and properly engages the mainspring cap. Install the MSH pin (the dimple traditionally goes on the left side, but it doesn’t affect function either way) by tapping into place with a plastic hammer.
  • Cock the hammer, feeling for proper engagement with the mainspring cap. Place the left side thumb safety in position, use a pin punch or nylon tool to depress the detent plunger, then snap the safety into place. Install the right side of the ambi safety.
  • Put the right hand grip back in place to make sure the right ambi-safety doesn't come out.
  • Insert extractor into slide. Install the firing pin and use the punch to push the firing pin in far enough to clear the firing pin stop cutout. Install the firing pin stop and release the firing pin.
  • Push the extractor into place to lock the plunger into the slide. With the slide upside down, depress the plunger and install the firing pin. Push the firing pin in far enough to clear the firing pin stop cutout and release the plunger. It will hold the firing pin forward. Install the firing pin stop and press the plunger to release the firing pin.

If you have been through this process, please add your 2 cents worth!
 

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Re: Detail Disassembly of the 1911

Cimarron,

Great write up, pictures and info. your work is very much appreciated.

Right now I'm still getting mine worn in but someday...

Thanks for you post(s).
 

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Re: Detail Disassembly of the 1911

Great write up - I can't wait to tear mine down and "tinker". I just have a side note - the Hex-head grip screws can be removed/replaced/tightened with one of the supplied Taurus Safety System keys. The hex is exactly the correct size - no stripping/no worries.

That way, you don't have to fiddle around trying to find a hex-key that fits.

Hope this helps...

;D
 

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Re: Detail Disassembly of the 1911

Here is the legend for the schematic

1.1 SLIDE
1.2 FRONT SIGHT INSERT
1.3 FRONT SIGHT
1.4 FRONT SIGHT SCREW
1.5 REAR SIGHT INSERT
1.6 REAR SIGHT
1.7 REAR SIGHT SCREW
1.8 EXTRACTOR
1.9 FIRING PIN STOP
1.10 FIRING PIN
1.11 FIRING PIN SPRING
1.12 FIRING PIN BLOCK
1.13 FIRING PIN KEY BLOCK SPRING
1.14 BARREL BUSHING
2 BARREL ASSEMBLY
2.1 BARREL
2.2 BARREL LINK
2.3 BARREL LINK PIN
3.1 RECOIL SPRING PLUG
3.2 RECOIL SPRING
3.3 RECOIL SPRING GUIDE
4.1 FRAME
4.2 SLIDE STOP
4.3 PLUNGER TUBE
4.4 SLIDE STOP PLUNGER
4.5 PLUNGER SPRING
4.6 SAFETY LOCK PLUNGER
4.7 HAMMER PIN
4.8 SEAR PIN
4.9 EJECTOR PIN
4.10 MANUAL SAFETY LEVER - LEFT
4.11 STOCK SCREW BUSHING
4.12 GRIP PANEL
4.13 GRIP SCREW
4.14 EJECTOR
4.15 DISCONNECTOR
4.16 TRIGGER BAR LEVER
4.17 FIRING PIN BLOCK LEVER
4.18 SEAR
4.19 MAGAZINE CATCH
4.20 MAGAZINE CATCH SPRING
4.21 MAGAZINE CATCH LOCK
4.22 MANUAL SAFETY LEVER - RIGHT
4.23 MAINSPRING HOUSING PIN
5 SEAR SPRING
6 TRIGGER ASSEMBLY
6.1 TRIGGER
6.2 TRIGGER BAR
6.3 TRIGGER SCREW
7 HAMMER ASSEMBLY
7.1 KEY LOCK
7.2 HAMMER
7.3 KEY LOCK SPRING
7.4 KEY LOCK BALL
7.5 HAMMER STRUT
7.6 KEY LOCK PIN
7.7 HAMMER STRUT PIN
8.1 MAINSPRING CAP
8.2 MAINSPRING
8.3 MAINSPRING HOUSING RETAINER
8.4 MAINSPRING CAP PIN
8.5 MAINSPRING HOUSING
9 GRIP SAFETY
10 MAGAZINE ASSEMBLY
10.1 MAGAZINE BODY
10.2 MAGAZINE FOLLOWER
10.3 MAGAZINE SPRING
10.4 MAGAZINE PLATE
10.5 MAGAZINE BOTTOM
 

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Re: Detail Disassembly of the 1911

I just did my first field strip yesterday and am curious how to remove the barrel from the slide. I'm wondering if the barrel link has to be taken off in order to do this. This is my first 1911 so please overlook my novice questions of which there are sure to be more.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Re: Detail Disassembly of the 1911

Dakotapix said:
I just did my first field strip yesterday and am curious how to remove the barrel from the slide. I'm wondering if the barrel link has to be taken off in order to do this. This is my first 1911 so please overlook my novice questions of which there are sure to be more.
Follow the instructions in the manuel...



I don't have pictures of this, but when I have a few minutes I'll try to take some do illustrate this process. Hope this helps! If you're still unclear, let me know and I'll see what else I can do to help.
 

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Re: Detail Disassembly of the 1911

Once the barrel bushing is removed, and after the recoil spring guide rod is removed, you can slide the barrel out the front of the Slide by keeping the Barrel Link upright as shown in the illustration in Cimarron's post.
 

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Re: Detail Disassembly of the 1911

Is the barrel bushing threaded onto the slide or does it simply pop off after returning it to where the lug aligns with the opening? Thanks in advance. It's starting to make sense now.

Pierce said:
Once the barrel bushing is removed, and after the recoil spring guide rod is removed, you can slide the barrel out the front of the Slide by keeping the Barrel Link upright as shown in the illustration in Cimarron's post.
 

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Re: Detail Disassembly of the 1911

The barrel bushing has a lug on it so when properly aligned can be removed and put back on. It locks the bushing in place. You turn the bushing counter-clockwise (after you have removed the recoil spring) and pull it out. I usually just turn and pull until it comes out one way or the other. ;)
 

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Re: Detail Disassembly of the 1911

Got it! Disassembled the pistol again and got the bushing off and back on again without a hitch. Still having trouble lining up the barrel link for reassembly but I'll keep practicing. Thanks all for the help.
 

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Re: Detail Disassembly of the 1911

Dakotapix said:
Got it! Disassembled the pistol again and got the bushing off and back on again without a hitch. Still having trouble lining up the barrel link for reassembly but I'll keep practicing. Thanks all for the help.
I used to have trouble with that, too, if I tried to put the recoil spring back in before re-inserting the slide stop. Yeah, it was a battle against the spring!

I also had problems lining up the barrel link assembly if I didn't have the barrel link in the forward position. If it is in the forward position there shouldn't be a problem if you line up the disassembly notch with the small semi-circular notch on the slide.

To think that there are Marines who can field strip this gun blind-folded! Simply amazing!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Re: Detail Disassembly of the 1911

I have just posted a Pictorial Guide to Field Stripping the PT1911 in this section. I have tried to document each step with photos and the text of the Taurus PT1911 Manual. Check this out and make your comments there so other can benefit rather than digging through all of this thread.


PS... Pierce, everyone appreciates the work you put in typing out the parts list, but could I persuade you to add a "little more" work and enter the Taurus Part Number... you will find it on the schematic with the "Parts" link at the bottom of the PT1911 page where the Manual is found. The identification number, part name (in English and Portuguese) and the Actual Taurus Order Number is there... folks would be tremendously appreciative if they have to order parts... they can give them the actual part number. Thanks!
 

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Hi Cimarron,

Sorry, I just read your message and I see you did the work with the part numbers. Just wanted to thank you for the work and let you know that I wasn't ignoring you. I don't get around to all the forums when I visit and my curiosity lead me here today. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If you hadn't started the project, I wouldn't have thought of finishing it. However, I called with some items I've been wanting to order and found out some of the numbers are wrong... basically "I" know "I" didn't make any mistakes... so Taurus MUST have some wrong part codes in wrong... but the young lady was very nice and thorough and got all of the items they had in stock... so I'm well pleased.
 

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So I'm assuming that Taurus will ship you parts on request and not require you to send the pistol back to them? I've heard different stories on this.

Nevadajim775
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So far the parts I've ordered have been as replacements, so when you pay for the item, there is no returning of parts. Most individual small parts are reasonable... so I've chosen to simply have some parts ready.
 

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Thanx for the write-up. I got it all apart and back together again, and it seems OK. Since you did ask for comments, I had two areas I struggled with:
1) To remove the mag release button, it took me a while to realize that you turn the SCREW counterclockwise, not the whole button! Silly me......it's obvious now.
2) I had to remove the plunger first in order to remove the extractor. I finally got it figured out.

Thanx for writing up the instructions. I made it all the way "out & back", so I'd have to say they were perfect !!
 

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Any tips on getting the MSH out? The pin came out easy but I couldn't get the MSH to come out. I even tried a hammer and wooden rod.

Thanks!
 

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I had to tap mine out w/ a hammer and a hunk of wood, but it popped out fairly easily. I guess you need a "bigger hammer" !!
 

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i was pretty much beating on it and it wouldn't budge. Then again, the tools used weren't the best. I have to try with I have the proper tools.
 
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