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What experiences have any of you had with older model (circa 1990) Taurus revolvers? Do they seem to be better / more poorly made than the current models?

I am looking at another member's older M85 and I really like it. The front sight ramp is much larger and I want an all steel gun, which this is. And of course, all wheel guns should have wood grips, and this one does.

Opinions, anyone?

BC
 

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I have a M85 and a 85CH that are the older models, 1990 or 91 lots of rounds thru both,and lots of CCW time for both.never had any trouble out of either one.a little heavier than the newer "wonder metals" but easier to control. jwr
 

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I can conclude from owning Taurus revolvers from the 1990's period that they were indeed well made and reliable.

Workmanship and accuracy is as good or better than S&W depending on what models you are into.

But that is from an opinion of owning both makes of firearms.

TB C45
 

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Asking that question is kind of waving a red cape at the bull. It's going to be gone after.LOL In this case in a user friendly way. :)

There are many links about the Taurus 431s,445s, and others like those. Some staff and members are sad these were discontinued.
Hunted down were the links on older .357 magnums and .38 Specials.

Will say this much. If buying a used gun it's buyer beware. No way to know how the llast owner treated the gun. All of them should be inspected closely or have a competent gunsmith check them over. Both is even better.
Under the circumstances stated above obviously that may very well not happen.

In other words, they work well. :) Some of these links mention the model 85.Ought to know, I have an older 85CH in the +20 year bracket.

Here's a sample:
http://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/index.php?topic=6218.0
http://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/index.php?topic=5747.0
http://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/index.php?topic=1321.0
http://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/index.php?topic=1098.0
http://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/index.php?topic=5623.0
http://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/index.php?topic=1471.0
http://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/index.php?topic=1109.0
http://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/index.php?topic=3952.0
http://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/index.php?topic=6611.0
http://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/index.php?topic=1565.0
http://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/index.php?topic=948.0
http://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/index.php?topic=6651.0
http://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/index.php?topic=4504.0
http://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/index.php?topic=2427.0
http://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/index.php?topic=1194.0
http://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/index.php?topic=945.0
http://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/index.php?topic=1098.0
http://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/index.php?topic=1321.0
http://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/index.php?topic=2805.0
http://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/index.php?topic=1960.0
http://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/index.php?topic=351.0
http://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/index.php?topic=5150.0
http://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/index.php?topic=1680.0
http://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/index.php?topic=1109.0

Granted, if the links want to be skipped ,fine.

I have the older 85CH steel frame. The cylinder lockup is good and tight, no endplay or shake,cylinder indexing if fine,accuracy still good, fit and function are very good.

The other Taurus model 65 and 66 are 20 years + old. Still work horses and going strong.

Other members will tell you they have the 1990 or older 85s and have run +P ammo as either a steady diet or a somtime thing, have thousands of rounds through them, yet the 85s are still functioning fine.

The links back that up. That includes the toughness of the older Taurus revolvers.

That's in the links,too. This is the short version without all the link reading . :)
 

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I have one of the first Model 85CHs made. I shot it out-of-time with a steady diet of +P and +P+ ammo. Taurus rebuilt it, free, even after I admitted to what I had done. I also have an early Model 85 in SS, and an early model Model 82, Blue, 4". My Model 66 3", in SS, has been similarly flawless since the early 1990's.

Fact is, I have an early Model 94, blue, 4", an early Model 94, SS, 4", and one of the early Model 941, blue, 4", as well. All of them have had thousands of rounds through them, without fail. ;D
 

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Back in the day, I bought new a model 689 with the vented over-rib. That gun shot really good, but I was really into swapping for something else back then and I can't even remember what I gave it up for....but it was a really nice gun.
 

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A 689 was the first revolver I ever bought. I had to sell it back in the mid 90's to pay bills :mad:. That next Christmas, my wife got me one to replace it, and I've had it ever since. I took a deer with it in 02. I shoot it more often than my Smiths.
 

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Thats the one !! Mine was 4'' barrel and SS.
 

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I'm not sure where the transition was from hammer block to transfer bar action, but I know that my older hammer block action on the 3" blued 66 isn't as good a DA feel, not nearly as smooth as my later M66 4" with the transfer bar system. I suspect that gun is early 90s. It is pre-lock and pre-MIM. Not sure what year it was cranked out, but just to say, look for the transfer bar action to get a smoother DA. That older gun is tough, been fired a lot with heavy loads as evidenced by the Pachmayr Gripper it came with that had all the "checkering" in the rubber on the back worn down by recoil. It's still tight and perfectly timed and it's quite an accurate gun. Just that the newer action is somewhat smoother in DA. The transfer bar lock work was an improvement IMHO.
 

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I have two Taurus revolvers from the mid nineties; a model 85 and a model 607. The 85 went back to the factory because the cylinder was binding. This problem showed up about halfway through the third box of ammo. Since then it has been wonderful and is still a regular carry gun for me. The 607 has never had an issue, and delivers amazing accuracy with whatever .38 or .357 load I feed it. If the gun you are looking at has not had a problem yet, I don't think you need to worry about it. If it passes inspection and the price is right, pick it up.
 

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I remember seeing advertising for the transfer bar sometime in the early 90's - I would think it came along sometime between the very late 80's and 1992. I will check on this a bit more.
 

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I own a Taurus .357 revolver. fired < a box of .357 rounds and about the same amount of .38 rounds. Bought it new back in the early 90's. Tried to get the model from Taurus via product search/serial number but came back with only the 1986 production year. I keep it cleaned and in the safe.
Do any of you know another method of finding out the model number?
 

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Well with mine, all of them!!

If you open the cylinder, where it connects on the frame, should be a couple series of #'s. In my case one of those series is the model #. All of mine are new, but it may hold true with yours too.
 

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Had a model 66 I shot for must have been 15 years and put many thousand rounds through it and was unable to wear it out. it never missed a beat
 

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My 1988 66SS is nice and tight and shoots like a dream. Great SA trigger...
 

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My probably more than 2-decade-old .22 96, with its 6" heavy barrel and target hammer and trigger was the first revolver I ever owned. Shoots like a dream and never regreted buying such a relatively inexpensive (compared to the actual S&W version), beutiful and accurate gun as this.
Alden
 
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