[kerk]

I've had this gun since my father passed, and even though I've never shot it, I just love the feel of it, and I'm told it's the old 'slam and bam' (at least that's what I call it) type trigger.

Anyway, I was looking at it tonight, and just noticed that on the left side of the barrel, just ahead of the receiver, the word 'FULL' is stamped. Does this mean that the barrel is a fixed full choke? And if so, should slugs be avoided?

BTW, it's a 20, if it matters. It has the pictured do hicky on the end which looks like a suppressor, appears to be fine threaded on the outer edge, and appears to be permanently fixed to the barrel.

 

[stallard]

The full mark on the barrel does designate it as a full choke. You cannot shoot slugs through anything tighter than full, so you are okay with slugs in yours.

Here is a primer on slugs and chokes, Shotgun Slugs

As to the "do hicky" on the barrel, I have not seen one quite like that. It could just be a recoil reducer but looks like something else is supposed to screw in it. The choke on a shotgun is at the end of the barrel and many would cut down past the constriction and add a adjustable choke (many generically call it a poly-choke), yours could be part of that but normally the choke would be before the ports.

Are there any markings on the "do Hicky"?

 

[Ace]

That looks like a special choke for the shotgun. If you would like to shoot slugs in it you might be able to find another barrel for and Ithaca is still in business so parts are still available. Just wish they still made the road blocker.

 

[GreenWolf70]

Yes, it could be a Poly Choke (so-called adjustable choke) or a Cutts compensator. If you want to preserve the original, then I would pick up another barrel while they are still available. You can easily, and some what cheaply, have the extra (or original) barrel modified to take screw in chokes. I know that Briley does that and their screw in chokes are better than any of the manufacturer's chokes.

 

[kerk]

The full mark on the barrel does designate it as a full choke. You cannot shoot slugs through anything tighter than full, so you are okay with slugs in yours.

Here is a primer on slugs and chokes, Shotgun Slugs

As to the "do hicky" on the barrel, I have not seen one quite like that. It could just be a recoil reducer but looks like something else is supposed to screw in it. The choke on a shotgun is at the end of the barrel and many would cut down past the constriction and add a adjustable choke (many generically call it a poly-choke), yours could be part of that but normally the choke would be before the ports.

Are there any markings on the "do Hicky"?

Thanks for the link stallard.

As a MOF, the 'do-hickey' says, "20 ga., Weaver Choke, El Paso, Tex"..

So I don't know if it's a choke, or a choke holder. As I said, it appears to be threaded at the outer edge, and where the threads stop, there is a heavy support band (where the bead threads in), followed by 4 lighter support bands between the holes, with the last at the edge of the barrel.

This gun has a 5 digit ser number, and the number puts it's mfg date around 1951 or 52.

I'm also confused that if the the barrel is a fixed full choke, why would there be what appears to be a threaded choke holder on it? Why would you (if you can) choke it down more than 'full'?

Some more pics. I had to do my best with a flashlight, as my camera won't allow a flash in the super close up mode. One shot is with a flashlight in the breach.

 

[stallard]

Appears to be a choke holder, a quick google turned this up. Jp Stevens 258A 20 ga w/ Weaver muzzel brake/ choke tube - 24hourcampfire check out the second pic.
Looks like you are missing the choke portion.

Let me see if I can help with your confusion,
The gun was made with a fixed Full choke, choke refers to the how much the barrel constricts (gets smaller). The std list is, from no constriction to tightest
Cylinder= No restriction
Improved Cylinder
Modified
Improved Modified
Full
They make many more but these are the std chokes, as you can see Full is tightest. Most would never want more choke but for most shooting I would use less. The constriction built on your gun is not all the way down the barrel, only the last 1 or 2". When they installed this choke they would have cut the barrel down to get rid of the factory choke, then by screwing on different chokes you can now tune the gun to it's use.

I would double check your fathers stuff for the original chokes. If you can't locate them you will have to try to buy some or have a new choke installed, by a gunsmith. I would not shoot the gun as is, it will damage the threads and you will be at a fixed cylinder choke, which is only good for short range. If you find chokes it will be recommended to only shoot slugs with a cylinder choke. Since the weaver choke was threaded onto the barrel, if you shoot it with a bunch of constriction (full choke) you risk blowing the choke right off the barrel.

Looks like these guys still have a few weaver choke tubes http://www.corsonsbarrels.com/weaverchokes.htm

 

[kerk]

Appears to be a choke holder, a quick google turned this up. Jp Stevens 258A 20 ga w/ Weaver muzzel brake/ choke tube - 24hourcampfire check out the second pic.
Looks like you are missing the choke portion.

Let me see if I can help with your confusion,
The gun was made with a fixed Full choke, choke refers to the how much the barrel constricts (gets smaller). The std list is, from no constriction to tightest
Cylinder= No restriction
Improved Cylinder
Modified
Improved Modified
Full
They make many more but these are the std chokes, as you can see Full is tightest. Most would never want more choke but for most shooting I would use less. The constriction built on your gun is not all the way down the barrel, only the last 1 or 2". When they installed this choke they would have cut the barrel down to get rid of the factory choke, then by screwing on different chokes you can now tune the gun to it's use.

I would double check your fathers stuff for the original chokes. If you can't locate them you will have to try to buy some or have a new choke installed, by a gunsmith. I would not shoot the gun as is, it will damage the threads and you will be at a fixed cylinder choke, which is only good for short range. If you find chokes it will be recommended to only shoot slugs with a cylinder choke. Since the weaver choke was threaded onto the barrel, if you shoot it with a bunch of constriction (full choke) you risk blowing the choke right off the barrel.

Looks like these guys still have a few weaver choke tubes WEAVER CHOKES

Thanks for the pic stallard, it let me see how fugly the full system looks. Thanks for all the info, now I know to find a Weaver choke tube, or settle for it being for short range buck and bird shot only.

I guess it could always be cut down to to 18" for HD duty.

 

[JR]

How long is the barrel? It's quite possible that the barrel was shortened to below the choke constriction, and the Weaver unit added. If so, the barrel marking is no longer valid.

 

[kerk]

How long is the barrel? It's quite possible that the barrel was shortened to below the choke constriction, and the Weaver unit added. If so, the barrel marking is no longer valid.

Correct. As was mentioned in the piece that Stallard linked, more than likely the barrel was shortened to rid it of the full choke, and make it a variable. That's why I mentioned that 'as is' it's a 'cylinder bore'.