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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Now what?! Kind of just kidding. I used this video as my how to.

I am getting a measurement, on the slug, of .354 to .3545. I measured one of the LRN projectiles I bought and they are a consistent .355 to .356. From my newbie understanding this should all work out well?!

Oh and one other thing that was pointed out to me was to seat one of my LRN and then take it apart and measure to see if I was swaging down the size of the projectile and I am not. The projectile when fully seated comes back out the same size as before I seat it. My final step is to use a Lee factory crimp die with a light crimp.

What say ye ol' wise one?
TIA.
 

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Sounds like a winner. I am guessing 9mm, but what type of gun?
 

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In my opinion only, lose the FCD and seat in one operation and crimp with a plain old taper crimp die in a second operation (just straighten out the case mouth, don't crimp).
 

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In my opinion only, lose the FCD and seat in one operation and crimp with a plain old taper crimp die in a second operation (just straighten out the case mouth, don't crimp).
If you have proper case wall contact it really amounts to removing the slight flare that it took to get the bullet to seat. If the bullet deforms the loader is doing too much! :cool:
 

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In my opinion only, lose the FCD and seat in one operation and crimp with a plain old taper crimp die in a second operation (just straighten out the case mouth, don't crimp).
I think the FCD is the best thing since sliced bread, but I do agree on seating and crimping in two operations.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If you have proper case wall contact it really amounts to removing the slight flare that it took to get the bullet to seat. If the bullet deforms the loader is doing too much! :cool:
The instructions for the Lee Factory Flare die is says to use a half turn for a light crimp. I probably use a 31/64 turn!
 

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If, as your loaded round enters the FCD it makes no contact with the carbide sizing ring then you are all right. You will not be resizing the bullet. If you get a batch of thick walled cases it could be enough to make contact in and out; then you will size the bullet. I don't use a FCD but I know of several cases where the owner/operator has removed the carbide ring from the die body and just used the adjustable crimp feature. That way you would never downsize the bullet.
 

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Diameter wise you're good to go. Don't care for the FCD with lead bullets either, but it can be OK if everything is just right or of course if you're using jacketed bullets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok so the FCD is not the way to go. My Hornady seating die will do a taper crimp. Should I set that up to do a light crimp/straighten out the flare? Of course that would be a one step deal.
 

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Ok so the FCD is not the way to go. My Hornady seating die will do a taper crimp. Should I set that up to do a light crimp/straighten out the flare? Of course that would be a one step deal.
It sounds like you have a grasp for the principles if your asking those questions.
1. Too much crimp can re-size and deform a bullet and create a bulge around in the case.
2. Too little crimp can let the bullet be pushed back into the case during cycling.

You have to find the spot that produces the best results. I use a Lyman or RCBS taper crimp die for all my auto-loader ammo and only slightly crimp a jacketed bullet and use a little more for a lead bullet. MY lead bullets are sized .0015 to .002 over groove diameter which allows me to get a nice tight crimp on a lead bullet without resizing it. If you are going to use a die with a roll crimp just remember that case length will play a part in how much crimp a bullet gets so try to use cases that are the same length.
 
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I think the FCD is the best thing since sliced bread, but I do agree on seating and crimping in two operations.
Just wondering, how were the bazillion 45 ACP rounds reloaded prior to Lee's introduction of their FCD (not to mention every other cartridge reloaded in the last 100 years, successfully)? I have no problem with anyone wanting to use an FCD, but I do think it's a disservice to new reloaders to suggest the use of one rather than how to properly adjust dies...
 

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The Lee FCD is only for jacketed bullets, not cast or plated. The die resizes the case as it removes the casing flare. In this situation, your lead bullets are also resized. Use a taper crimp only with lead/plated bullets.

With .355 bullets you are good to go. I wouldn't worry about the .356 bullets unless you are shooting targets and need pinpoint accuracy.
 
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You can do the crimp either way. Your bullet seater should put a light crimp and save you an operation.
 

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News to me and I've been using one on my Dillon 550 when loading .45Colt and .45 Schofield with lead bullets for nearly a decade. never had a problem with it either. That's the only time I use it. If I'm using one of my single stages, I use the seater die with the stem and seater plug pulled out for crimping.
 

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I am using the factory crimp die in all my lead reloads with no negative results so I emailed Lee to ask about using the factory crimp die with lead bullets, this is the response I got:

fishinkeylargo,
In a pistol cartridge it may reduce the bullet diameter, inside the case, a few thousands. In a rifle cartridge it may leave a ring around the bullet.

Tech Service

Lee Precision, Inc.
4275 Highway U
Hartford, WI 53027
phone: 262-673-3075

For what it is worth I am using hard cast bullets with mid range powder charges and none of my guns are showing any signs of excessive leading.
 
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