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I’ve only had it since Monday, but, I did have my hands *all over* this gun the past few days doing dry fire drills with snap caps. Not once did I wipe it down. The rust can be described as being dots of rust in places I had contact with my hands. Like my thumb on the frame, under the trigger guard where my fingers would make contact often.

It was pretty much everywhere but mostly in the spots I mentioned. Again, it was a light spotty rust. I removed the rust with CLP and a copper brush. Looks great now.

Just wondering if anyone has seen this on bead blasted SS guns before. I have, but not in 5 days
 

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I’ve only had it since Monday, but, I did have my hands *all over* this gun the past few days doing dry fire drills with snap caps. Not once did I wipe it down. The rust can be described as being dots of rust in places I had contact with my hands. Like my thumb on the frame, under the trigger guard where my fingers would make contact often.

It was pretty much everywhere but mostly in the spots I mentioned. Again, it was a light spotty rust. I removed the rust with CLP and a copper brush. Looks great now.

Just wondering if anyone has seen this on bead blasted SS guns before. I have, but not in 5 days
My blued one does it and was about to justify a SS one to prevent having to clean/oil it weekly.
 

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I don't believe the SS finish is actual bead blasted. I think it is an applied finish. I keep my 605 and 627 with that finish in holsters, and haven't seen rust growth yet. Clp will probably keep at bay for now. But you may want to look at an application of frog lube paste (follow instructions and heat the metal first) , then wipe off excess. That stuff is a great long term rust inhibitor, and will leave your gun with a sweet wintergreen smell. Or just apply CLP weekly. Do you live in high humidity?
 

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My 605 is older with polished stainless and it looks as good today as it did in 2002. I overpaid for it used because they changed the stainless finish.
I had a Taurus 605 with a 2.5 inch barrel ( yep not a 2.25 , I measured) years ago , it had the shiney stainless steel , the revolver had a full grip , I purchased it a local Pawnshop at a great deal ...I carried the 605 often , carried while I did yard work , woods carry , fishing .. After a decade of this type carry and thousands of rounds , It looked like the day I got it , besides the grips , they were narled ..
I should have kept that gun ...
 

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I don't believe the SS finish is actual bead blasted. I think it is an applied finish. I keep my 605 and 627 with that finish in holsters, and haven't seen rust growth yet. Clp will probably keep at bay for now. But you may want to look at an application of frog lube paste (follow instructions and heat the metal first) , then wipe off excess. That stuff is a great long term rust inhibitor, and will leave your gun with a sweet wintergreen smell. Or just apply CLP weekly. Do you live in high humidity?
Pretty sure that the SS finish IS actually bead blasted AND that it is NOT an applied finish. There are numerous posts on this forum that discuss this issue. As much as we'd all like to think not, SS and and does "rust" and needs to be protected. Maybe not the same as bare steel but still it needs some protection. I think that any of the solutions provided would be adequate.
Flex
 

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Pretty sure that the SS finish IS actually bead blasted AND that it is NOT an applied finish.
Flex
You are correct, sir......

Here's mine both before and after I polished it:

IMG_0052.JPG

IMG_2037.JPG

.......never had any rust issues with mine.

You know, it might have to do with the pH level of your skin. Everyone is different.
 

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This is a good article on stainless steel rust. “The chromium in stainless helps form an invisible layer on the surface that prevents moisture from reaching the iron,” says Austin Wilde, senior manager of supplier quality stainless steel at GE Appliances. “If this layer is breached or degraded to the point where moisture reaches the underlying steel, rust will occur.” https://www.consumerreports.org/kitchen-appliances/stainless-steel-appliances-can-rust/ One thing that is fairly well known is the higher the iron content, the more likely it will rust. This can be tested with a magnet. Stainless steel with a low iron contact mitigates it's magnetic attraction; often it will seem non-magnetic when using a magnet. The most common way to restore the passivization is to submerge it in nitric acid, however there are some home methods that may work. Passivating Stainless Steel - How to Brew
 

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You know, it might have to do with the pH level of your skin. Everyone is different.
Very true. I knew a guitar guy who went through several gold plated parts before he gave up. His skin's pH just ate the plating off in nothing flat.
 
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