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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings....
I just picked up my brand new 942M...my first Taurus revolver in at least 30 years. I took it out Saturday, and put a few rounds through it.... probably 50-60.
First impressions, I LIKE it. It's very smooth in double action, and single action is acceptable, with some creep, but not terrible.
The issue is that in nearly every cylinder full, I had one "no-fire". No more than one, and in almost every cylinder.
All of them except one fired when struck again. I "re-struck" it 4 or 5 times, and it never went off. Most of them I rotated to hit a fresh spot on the rim, but on one of them, I just snapped my way back around to it, and it fired.
I had three brands of ammo... Fiochi, Winchester, and CCI.
The firing pin indent on them appears to be pretty minimal, especially comparing them to some 22 lr's that I shot in my TX22.
I took the side plate off, and looked at the interaction of parts, and noticed that when the hammer was all the way forward, with the trigger held back, there was a gap between the transfer bar and the spot on the frame that stops it. I can take a thin blade screwdriver and move the transfer bar up against the frame... in other words, there is "wiggle room" for the xfer bar to go further forward.
The top of the hammer is definitely making solid impact on the frame, so it cannot go any further forward.
I have almost come to the conclusion that I need to remove maybe .02-.03 from the hammer extension, to allow it to drive the xfer bar fully forward.

Am I missing anything that would make this a bad idea? It seems that the worst that could happen would be a total lack of wiggle room when the hammer is fully forward. I don't think that will be a bad thing..??

Any ideas, or experience with this type of issue?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I'll continue my conversation with myself... I took off about 20 thousandths or so from the nose of the hammer, checking it as I went. I have it to where it is almost as far forward as it can go without binding the xfer bar. I dry fired it on some empties, and compared the impression from the firing pin, and it looks better.
Now I need to take it back out and see what results I get.
News at 11.....
 

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I love questions like this, because people learn from them. Myself included - don't take this post as any sort of claim to be an expert.

The question is whether the hammer, transfer bar, and frame/firing pin should all be in simultaneous, firm contact at the moment the energy is transferred to the firing pin. This casual drawing makes it look like the answer is no, but this is absolutely not an engineering drawing:

479595


In this drawing, there is too much free space between the transfer bar and the recessed flat of the hammer to give a solid connection. Of course, the firing pins don't really look like that (to give one firm example that we can't take this drawing too literally).

Now, I wouldn't think the hammer, bar, and pin have to all be in solid contact. The kinetic energy of the hammer can be transferred to the tranfer bar, which can then be transferred to the firing pin, in a Newton's cradle kind of way. The fact that you found wiggle room doesn't, in my mind, prove that the wiggle room is the problem. I note that you have nothing bad to say about the trigger, and a lot of the time people complain about the DA trigger on the rimfires, so I kind of wonder if you have a mainspring that's a bit too light.

It would be really interesting to hear from someone with a good, reliable 942 and find out if they have any wiggle in the transfer bar when the hammer is down.

Let us know if your tuning solved the problem though. That's the ultimate test. I doubt there's risk of frame damage if the wiggle room is designed in, because the force will be spread out over a pretty wide area.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for your response... in your drawing, the xfer bar should be in the "up" position at the moment of firing... the hammer strikes the bar, which transfers the impact to the back of the firing pin. What I found was a slight gap between the xfer bar and the frame of the gun. The nose of the hammer kept the hammer from smacking the transfer bar all the way up against the frame. I think (hope) that is what allowed the light hammer strikes. My hope is that by allowing the hammer to go almost fully tight against the xfer bar and frame that I will get maximum extension of the firing pin tip, which will give a better strike against the rim of the cartridge.

If I understand inertia type firing pins, the pin doesn't stay out, even with the hammer all the way down, but is "bounced" forward against the primer, then retracted back under the tension of its spring. I don't think this gun would be considered an inertia type, because as long as the trigger is held back, and the hammer is forward, the pin is "out".... it only retracts when the trigger is released and the xfer bar slips back down out of engagement.

I hope to be able to test fire it in the next day or so... as you say, that should tell the tale. I hope I don't have to get a longer firing pin to make this work...
 

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I don't know whose drawing it really is - I just found one that worked for the discussion. Your point is well taken.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks. I have a picture of it with an arrow pointing at the gap, but I cannot upload it until I get home this evening. I also have pictures of the firing pin indention in the cases.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Here are a couple of pics of the firing pin indents...



and a pic of the inside of the action... .the arrow points to the gap that was there with the hammer fully forward. The material I took off the front of the hammer nose allows it to go further forward, almost closing that gap....

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That still did not fix the issue. I shot it this afternoon, and had the same issue.... at least one in every cylinder did not fire.... but they all fired the second time around.
Primer indents looked pretty good, overall.
Perhaps I need a stronger spring? The DA trigger pull is very smooth, almost light....
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I still might do that. I need to figure out if it needs a stronger main spring, but after that, I'm not real sure what I can do, other than replace stuff....
 

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Shim the base of the hammer spring with a small washer (1/16"). See if the problem goes away.
 

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Those are the lightest primer strikes I've seen on a 22 in a long time. It's worth trying Whalerman's idea. As long as the problem isn't an undersized firing pin, you can probably solve it yourself.
 

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Like others have suggested, I wouldn't go grinding anything on a new gun just yet. I bought a new Taurus Mod 66 (stainless 4" bbl .357 revolver) about 11 years ago & the cylinder rotation was very tight, but the indexing was great. If I would've just left it alone & let it break in naturally by just shooting it I would've been better off but I ended up sending back to Taurus 2x & it came back in worse shape each time.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I called and talked to Taurus on Monday, and they said they would send me a UPS return postage email, and I still haven't received it.
The idea of a small washer is a good one... I will likely try that before I send it back. I cannot find anywhere to buy a stronger spring for this revolver. Wolff sells lighter springs, but nobody seems to sell stronger ones.
This is a great little handgun, if I could only get it to fire every time...
It's my first "issue" with a Taurus product... I have several of their pistols, and all of them except one have been pretty much flawless. My (used) 9mm 24/7 has some issues with feeding, but my 24/7 in 45 is great. It doesn't like SWC bullets, but I'm ok with that. I haven't tried to smooth anything out on it yet, as it goes bang with anything resembling a round nosed bullet.
My TCP had an issue with the slide locking back randomly during firing, but that was because the lever was a little large. I gradually filed it down to the point that the noses of the cartridges didn't nudge it during firing/feeding, and it's been flawless since then. I've probably put 500 + rounds through it since then, with no failures at all.
I've got a relatively new 856 stainless that has been flawless, as has been my TX22.
My PT111 G2 has been flawless from day one... it probably has 1500 or so through it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I forgot to mention that I have an older model 85 that I blew up, using someone else's reloads...:rolleyes:
I was going to see if that spring would be stronger, and put it in the 942, but the spring strut looks a little different, so I haven't done that yet. I may try that if the washer trick doesn't help...
 

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I called and talked to Taurus on Monday, and they said they would send me a UPS return postage email, and I still haven't received it.
The idea of a small washer is a good one... I will likely try that before I send it back. I cannot find anywhere to buy a stronger spring for this revolver. Wolff sells lighter springs, but nobody seems to sell stronger ones.
This is a great little handgun, if I could only get it to fire every time...
It's my first "issue" with a Taurus product... I have several of their pistols, and all of them except one have been pretty much flawless. My (used) 9mm 24/7 has some issues with feeding, but my 24/7 in 45 is great. It doesn't like SWC bullets, but I'm ok with that. I haven't tried to smooth anything out on it yet, as it goes bang with anything resembling a round nosed bullet.
My TCP had an issue with the slide locking back randomly during firing, but that was because the lever was a little large. I gradually filed it down to the point that the noses of the cartridges didn't nudge it during firing/feeding, and it's been flawless since then. I've probably put 500 + rounds through it since then, with no failures at all.
I've got a relatively new 856 stainless that has been flawless, as has been my TX22.
My PT111 G2 has been flawless from day one... it probably has 1500 or so through it.
It may be that you need two washers. Just check for main spring bind. Not all springs are exactly the same regardless of source. Perhaps you have a weak spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I hope that is the issue. I will give the washer thing a try when I get back home... we are going out of town this weekend.
 
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