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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been waiting on my 617 for months for my dealer to get one in. well he finally got one in yesterday so i jumped on it. after getting it home i proceeded to load up some S&B 158 gr .357 and do some practicing. On 5 of the chambers it functions great, on 2 it will not rotate at all. I tried some UMC 38 and some Speer Lawman 38 and all 7 fired great. any ideas on what could be wrong?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
just got it havent got that far yet. does anyone think that using a 10mm brush in the chamber would help. everything feels overly tight. like it needs a good polish.
 

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Did you clean the gun real good before you started shooting it? Taurus is famous for their gun grease coming from the factory, and it can and will gum up the works.....if you didn't do so, clean the gun very thoroughly and then try firing it again. Concentrate on the cylinder and the crane.
 

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Get into the firing pin channel and clean that as well with toothpicks,lightly solvented patches, or with a dental pick. Gunk builds up in there very fast.

Clean around the ejector star itself. All around it,over and under it. There's a surprising amount of garbage than can collect. This will cause some of the troubles you've been having.

There is a metal 'hand' that pops out to engage the slots on the cylinder called a pawl. It's near the firing pin channel, but has a seperate opening. That's going to need a cleaning with toothpicks and patches.

Factory guns are proof fired at the factory. This starts the caked buildup that accumulates and causes these kind of things to happen. This is just piggybacking on what texastaurusguy has said.
 

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Yeah, what they said. Bet you it will fix it. Unless there was an ammo problem with the first, but doubt it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i got to looking last night and S&B cases do have a slightly thicker case than speer, remington, and winchester. i am gonna give a good cleaning and try it again. if it works it works, if not then i know not to use S&B and this particular pistol.

Does anyone have a caliper and some S&B 357 lying around? i am curious to see if the rim thickness is greater than .060"
 

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Each brand of ammo,especailly foreign stuff have many differences in every way. One would make the assumption,all things being equal, that the elements that make up .38 Special ammo would be the same. Far from the truth however.

As was pointed out wall thickness alone is a factor. This is true for all ammo made.

All the ammo makers cases are of varying thicknesses.

Powders with varying burning rates, hard or soft primers, and other factors can cause hangups, cylinder rotation problems, or other vagaries to happen.

I've had remanufactured ammo or some cheap practice ammo, locally made, that after a few shots the cylinder rotation was stiff and everything on the revolver was so dirty function was compromised.

Also forgot to clean the firing pin hole, extractor star, the cylinder stop, and the pawl. All the areas that can get ovelooked real easily, yet grit will find a way in.
Even the area where the ejector rod joins the crane, the cylinder, and spins can accumulate grit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So far to date i have fired 14 Remington UMC 38's, 6 Winchester 357's, 7 S&B 357's, and 7 Speer Lawman 38's. The remington, speer and winchester fired practically flawless. There was some slight binding in the cylinder during rotation. The S&B really jammed it up and kept it from rotating. I called Taurus and they said that nothing can be done for it, just that i should not use S&B but everything would be ok. I said that even though some still didn't allow it to function as true as it should that it would be normal, they said yes. I am pissed that they don't want to do anything about it.
 

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But.....have you cleaned it yet, like Quiks described? You being an Iraq vet, know I'm sure better than most the value of a clean weapon.....especially a revolver, with the obvious moving parts and places for grit to interfere. I would hold off on getting Taurus to do anything about anything - what if you clean it, and the problem goes away?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
i scrubbed that thing better than a doctor prepping for surgery. you are right i know that value of a good clean weapon. the least bit of contamination can be a nightmare. I am just at a loss. Should i send it back and just say the cylinder has been locking up or what? i want it fixed. I love my 627, pt145, and pt100. Taurus has always been great about producing quality pieces, but what went wrong with this one.
 

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I saw your other post....if the cylinder space gap is out of specs, you might want to explore that option.....I would think they would have to at least fix that problem, which might fix the entire problem.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
does any one know the specs...should it be the same as my 627 tracker?
 

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That sort of problem can be caused by shooting .38 specials in a .357 magnum revolver. Gunk residue can build up in the cylinder throats, and if not cleaned properly will cause the affore mentioned problem.

Some ammo can be very dirty powders and lube gunk.

Best rule of thumb,don't shoot .38 special in a .357...problem solved.

TB C45
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
it was binding prior to shooting the first round.... to date i have shot just 34 rounds through it. it should not be this way. there must be a defect.
 

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Did you pull the sideplate while cleaning and lubing, to get to the internals? The cylinder to barrel gap should be about .003", minimum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
i am concerned with head space too...whats the tolerance on it. thats where it seems to hang
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
i haven't pulled the side plate yet. after the 3 screws how hard is it too pull?
 

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http://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/index.php?topic=6412.0

Here's a shot of the Trackers internals, which is identical to your 617 (I have one as well). Honestly, once the plate is off, just blast the internals with carb cleaner, use compressed air to dry out and then spray in some CLP. There is nothing on or in the 617 that the carb cleaner will harm and it is the only stuff that will clear out the factory crud that I've used.

As far as ammo goes, you'd be hard pressed to find a gun that didn't like a particular brand of ammo. You may have even gotten a bad lot, as I have from virtually every manufacturer. On occasion you'll even get bad components when reloading. I have a bunch of Winchester .44 Mag brass that is out of spec on the base diameter and I also have a pound of Accurate Arms #5 powder that is either not AA#5 or the formulation is wrong as it consistently over pressured in rounds that were loaded on the low side of average.

The bad powder alone caused me to think the cylinder chambers on my 617 were tight and needed to be honed, that is until I took a closer look at the fired cases and ran a variety of other .357 rounds through the gun.

If your gun will cycle every other brand except the S&B you have on hand, it's probably the S&B.
 

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let a Gunsmith give a estament on repairs befor you send it. Sometimes it's cheaper than shipping.
 
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