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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This will be my third time breaking the gun down for cleaning, just got back from the range (300 rounds). All was going well until I tried to remove the slide. I was only able to get it to move about 3/4 of an inch forward, and it got stuck. I was able to slide it back and repeat, same thing. This last time I tried it, the slide got stuck about 1/8 of an inch forward, trigger is locked back and will not reset, and I cannot move the slide at all, forwards or backwards. The first two times I took it down for cleaning, no problems. Any advice woule be great.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Ok, I figured it out. After working the slide back and forth a 1/4 inch (all that it would move) and fiddling with the trigger, I got the trigger to release, and was able to fully rack the slide. I reinserted the take-down pin, and cycled action a couple of times. I then went thru the steps to disassemble it again, and was able to get the slide off, although it was very difficult. Here is what I found: Metal shavings along the right-hand rail inside the slided, and the corner of the frame-rail has a nice shiny spot its whole length, the source of the shavings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
After I gave it a good cleaning, I found out what was causing the shavings. Insided the slide, near the safety locking mechanism, there was a spot where something had impacted the lip hard enough to cause a sharp edge, which continued to shave down the right frame rail as I when thru 300 rounds today. To verify, I tried to re-assemble the gun, and could feel a lot of resistance. So I took a couple of small files and knocked the sharp edge off. The gun went back together smoothly, and the action works freely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Now, my question to the more knowledgable out there, is what could have caused this to happen? As I said in the 1st post, this was my 3rd cleaning, and second range trip. The 1st time at the range I put 200 rounds of WWB thru it, with the only problems being my hitting the mag release with my thumb. Todays trip was another 200 rounds of WWB, and 100 rounds of Altanta Armory 180g from the range. Once again my only issue was a couple of feed problems caused by my grip dropping the mag.

I also noted another scored/gouged area, pictures posted below.

Does this guns need to go in for service? Or will my DIY smithing suffice? My main concern is what caused the sharp edge to form in the first place.
 

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I am not a gunsmith, so take this for what its worth. My opinion is that your gun is just working itself in. New parts and a tight fit means that there will be wear. At some point it stops wearing as the parts achieve a working alignment. You said you had fired 300 rounds with no problems. To me that says the gun works. I have found take down to be a booger on these Mil Pros. That part seems to be typical. If it were mine, I'd keep shooting and only send it back if the gun started to malfunction while shooting.

Out West
 

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Same here, issue with slide coming off the first time I took the gun apart to clean it, and look at all the cool parts ;D

1. Make sure the magazine is ejected

2. **Make sure there is no round in the chamber**

3. While pulling forward on the slide, completely pull the trigger, continue to pull forward on slide

That seems to "unlock" the slide and allow you to disassemble the rest of the gun

From what I've read/heard, this problem seems to go away after repeated disassembly and use at the range. Just breaking in I suppose...
 

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Kamac,

Since you've had a couple problems with it, I would suggest taking it to a friendly local shop, or the place you bought it and asking their opinion.

You could also try calling Taurus and see what they suggest, worst case scenario, you'll have to send it in (which I hear can be a pretty quick turnaround) and then you have the peace of mind that Taurus gave the gun their stamp of approval.

Just my 2 cents,

Hondo
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks to all who have responded. After some further reading and pondering, I feel that the sharp edge was produced during manufacturing. I can see no other way that the dimple that pushed the metal up could have been casued. It didn't present a problem during the first two times that I disassembled the gun, only after I put enough rounds thru it to heat things up and cycle the action alot. Now that I filed it down and cleaned out the shavings, everything runs smooth. I plan on having a gunsmith look at it, just to be safe. If I have to send it in, I will let everyone know about turn-around and what Taurus has to say about it.

Kevin
 

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Hondo said:
You could also try calling Taurus and see what they suggest
That's what I would do. I have called Taurus CS a couple of times. Each time I only had to wait 1-2 minutes to talk with someone in CS and they were always helpful.
 

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nakedbaboon said:
I had issue getting my slide off the first time. It did not want to come off. Had to use alot of force. Never had the problem again. I have stripped it at least 40 times since.
this happend to me as well it comes off fine now, so i wont send it back untill i get a malfuction
 

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Guys this disassembly is making me nuts. I may be afraid of using too much force and damaging something. However, the slide seems SO tight I can't get it to budge after removing the "Slide Disassembly Latch". I have read three ways of disassembly - all produce the same TIGHTLY locked up slide.

#1 - Per the Owners Manual (In all methods magazine is out / gun is safe / trigger NOT yet pulled:
-1- Lock slide back
-2- Rotate 'Slide Disasembly Latch" Clockwise until lever pointing downward.
-3- Move slide slightly more to the rear to release / unlock 'Slide Disassembly Latch' (a slight 'pop'is seen and lever moves out just a bit.
-4- Rotate "latch" and pull outward / removing completely.
-5- Carefully release Slide Catch, pull slide forward WHILE PULLING THE TRIGGER BACK
-6- Here is where the slide seems to 'lock tightly' - not moving forward an additional amount with 'moderate force'
*** It appears the trigger is held back 100% WHILE the slide is moved forward???

Another method says to perform #1 through #4 --- but to move slide forward, NOT ULLING the trigger until slide is forward.???
* THEN it says to PULL the TRIGGER and immediately RELEASE it (???) - and continue to pull slide forward and off.

The third method. The same as above, but instead of RELEASING THE TRIGGER, it says to HOLD TRIGGER ALL THE WAY BACK & remove slide.???

I've also seen a video on-line where the fellow is "pulling and releasing the trigger" REPEATEDLY while pulling the slide forward and off it comes.

In any event -- I can't seem to get it off. That tight feeling I get after removing the take-down lever, releasing the slide and moving forward SEEMS to be SO TIGHT, as I mentioned above, I'm afraid to force it for fear of breaking something.

OK a couple other notes I made as I read around the forum: One says "BEFORE starting disassembly, INSERT and EMPTY MAGAZINE, rack the slide, drop the magazine and then follow the steps in the Owners Manual". MORE CONFUSION.

There was even one where the fellow said he performed all steps and when the slide met resistance while moving forward, he GENTLY STRUCK THE REAR OF THE SLIDE WITH A RUBBER MALLET and the slide came off! SOUNDS STRANGE TO SAY THE LEAST, yes??

As with other guys out here - I'm obviously getting that slide locking up as it is moving forward. Repeated attempts fail to move it further along and I am afraid to force it. So? Use more muscle? Spray a little lubrication along the slide before removal? SMACK it witha BIG hammer(grin) or perform a step I might be missing, in spite of what the Owners Manual says??
 

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Guys, this has been reported a number of times, and often the problem has been that the "Taurus Security System" is engaged, or partially engaged. As it is a simple, mechanical block that engages the guide rail on the right side of the slide, I suspect this is what's happening to the original poster.

As far as disassembly, this is the process that works 100% on my PT140, Pt145, and my GF's .40 24/7-

- Confirm pistol is clear.
- Manually rack slide to the rear, and engage the slide lock.
- Rotate takedown lever 90 degrees clockwise, to the "Down" position.
- Remove takedown pin to the left of pistol.
- Release slide lock, and, while controlling the slide with the off hand, CAREFULLY return the slide to the "In Battery" position
- At this point, pull and hold the trigger. (Note- pulling and holding, or pulling and releasing the trigger while the slide is retracted, will NOT allow the slide to come forward off the frame, on any of the above pistols.)
- Slide should now pull forward, off the frame.

On reassembly-
- Place slide on frame rails
- Rack slide fully to the rear (Do NOT pull trigger during this part of the process)
- Engage slide lock
- Re-insert takedown pin. ( A couple of little tricks here-

1- When starting the takedown pin back into the frame, note that a leg of the slide catch spring can be seen in the Takedown Pin hole. Also the right end of the Takedown Pin is beveled in such a way that it is “half moon” shaped. The “half moon” goes over the spring. What I do is rotate the Takedown Lever fully forward (180 degrees from it’s final position), place the half moon end of the pin over the spring leg, and rotate the pin/lever 90 degrees counter clockwise, to its removal position. This forces the spring into it’s proper position, and allows the pin to be reinserted. Insert the pin, and rotate the lever to it’s fully rearward position. It should snap into place over the spring leg, which, in turn, retains the Takedown Pin.
2- The barrel must be fully forward when the pin is reinserted. It CAN be inserted with the barrel to the rear- this is improper. The easiest way I’ve found to make sure the barrel is fully forward, is to hold the pistol fully muzzle down while performing all the above steps.
This really isn’t as complex as I’ve made it sound- basically, reinsert the pin, with the muzzle pointed at the ground, and you should be good to go.)
- Release the slide lock, and reassembly should be complete.

While writing this up, I’ve confirmed the process on both my 140 and 145- it does work. I’ve also read thru the online manual, and it seems pretty nonsensical to me. Possibly a bad translation from Portuguese??? Again, the above works.


I also recommend against "Forcing", filing, or hammering anything- you are either using incorrect methodology, or the pistol is malfunctioning. Forcing a mechanical device usually results in a worse breakage. If the above process still doesn’t work, I’d send it to repair.

Hope all this helps- Good Shootin’!
:thumb:
 

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sh801 ..... The obvious sometimes are missed. This is my only weapon with a "safety system" requiring a "key". I never gave it a thought. I have the keys . and I'll give it a shot and se if it works. Hopefully it will and no return to Taurus will be necessary. I totally agree that NO AMOUNT OF HAMMERING / STRIKING is prudent - nor should it be required. I'd never do it; opting first for a return to the guys who built the animal!

Just for drill I'm going to check the lock --- dribble a bit of oil down next to the slide rails etc and see what happens. Then ........... I have this BIG wooden mallet ............. :) that I'll leave in it's proper place!

THANKS FOR THE SUGGESTION / INFO
 

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SmokeJumper said:
sh801 ..... The obvious sometimes are missed. This is my only weapon with a "safety system" requiring a "key". I never gave it a thought. I have the keys . and I'll give it a shot and se if it works. Hopefully it will and no return to Taurus will be necessary. I totally agree that NO AMOUNT OF HAMMERING / STRIKING is prudent - nor should it be required. I'd never do it; opting first for a return to the guys who built the animal!

Just for drill I'm going to check the lock --- dribble a bit of oil down next to the slide rails etc and see what happens. Then ........... I have this BIG wooden mallet ............. :) that I'll leave in it's proper place!

THANKS FOR THE SUGGESTION / INFO
No sweat- hopefully It'll work a little better.

Besides, there's always the mallet option! :D
 

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:'( I activated the "key safety" and de-activated several times. Put an empty magazine in the gun, let the slide go forward, which it easily diid.

Then removed the mag and went through the steps exactly as you detailed, paying particular attention to the trigger-pull sequence. Unfortunately, the slide moves forward only about 1/4 inch and then resistance can be felt. The resistance is as if something is 'hitting inside' - it very audible - metal against metal (or some hard surface) and pulling the trigger simply resets the firing pin.

I noticed there is a small RED DOT ON THE SLIDE - towards the rear on the LEFT hand side. I see no mention of it in the Owners Manual, nor can I find anything on-line. Any idea what this may represent? Positioning of the slide? They had a gazillion-gallons of red paint in Brazil and put a slight indentation there then filed it with the paint? :D

I will not give in to the urge to "smack the slide" - mainly because if it NEEDS to "smacked" - something must be out of wack. The puzzling part is the gun fires fine, chambers 100%, and ejects spent rounds and locks back the slide when the last round is fired. It simply acts like every other pistol I own - until the dis-assembly process. Then ........... frustration time.

I'll swing by the place where Davidson's shipped the gun and see if the gunsmith has any ideas. If not, I'll contact Davidson's and/or Taurus and see what they have to say. Unless they have made some major advances / revisions to the gun, I'd rather not exchange it unless absolutely necessary. It's (from what I can tell) the third generation of the 140. :???:

SO, the saga continues - or better yet, the mystery continues. Other have had the issue, but overcame it by playing "trigger trigger pul and pull the trigger". Just my luck, so far, it's not helped. If the neighbors wouldn't call the police I'd go blast a mags worth of ammo in the back-yard, but then I'd have to wait until the anti-gun guys let me out of the box surrounded by metal bars before trying the disassembly once again. ;D
 
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