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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Brownells had a sale on the ready-mod Polymer 80 and Tactical Toolbox had an amazing coupon code for 10 bucks off and free shipping. The total was 90 bucks shipped. I couldn't pass it up. I went with the O.D. green 19 size frame. Im going to hold out for sales and try and build this for under 500 bucks total. Here are some before and after of the stippling job. Any criticism is appreciated.


 

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I have seen many builds which really sparked my motivation... I will be ordering my P80 next week 馃槈
Keep us posted on your build
 

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It's beautiful! My only criticism is you didn't tell us how you did it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have seen many builds which really sparked my motivation... I will be ordering my P80 next week 馃槈
Keep us posted on your build
It's beautiful! My only criticism is you didn't tell us how you did it.
I used a 12 dollar wood burner I picked up at the local Wally. After watching a few YouTube videos and practicing a lil on a sks mag, I decided to go for it. It is very time consuming but surprisingly very easy. Just poke, poke poke away.
 

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Very good work indeed. I'm afraid I wouldn't have the patients to do that kind of work. You have my respect sir.
 
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Looks very good, I would suggest you clean it up a little with some borders. There are plenty You Tube videos covering the subject.

Also looks like you did a pretty good job of completing the frame too. Only thing I would tell you is the rear rail should be flush with the top of the tab behind it. One of the Rules of modifying the 1911 is to always modify the cheapest part first. So don't cut on the frame, or move the pin holes, but clean up the bottom of the rear rail. I can't tell from the pic, but sometimes the rear rails need to be squared up. I also file all the edges smooth and then polish the whole rear rail.

Not trying to bust your chops, but just trying to offer helpful advice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Looks very good, I would suggest you clean it up a little with some borders. There are plenty You Tube videos covering the subject.

Also looks like you did a pretty good job of completing the frame too. Only thing I would tell you is the rear rail should be flush with the top of the tab behind it. One of the Rules of modifying the 1911 is to always modify the cheapest part first. So don't cut on the frame, or move the pin holes, but clean up the bottom of the rear rail. I can't tell from the pic, but sometimes the rear rails need to be squared up. I also file all the edges smooth and then polish the whole rear rail.

Not trying to bust your chops, but just trying to offer helpful advice.
I thought about doing a border but when I was practicing I couldn't get a consistent depth on my lines. I may try and go back and add some once I feel more confident. The rear rails weren't all the way in for this pic but they look like they are going to need to be trued up. They dont look as evenly formed as they are on my full size P80. And hey no chops being busted here, I'm still learning when it comes to firearms so I welcome all advice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·

Here it is with the LPK installed. Had to do a little work to get the rear rails to sit right but it's all good now. Fluffed and buffed the usual stuff. Now it's time to pick out the upper components.
 

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Stippling plastic is a lot easier than it is wood. It's also prone to more screw ups if you're not paying attention to what you're doing. I think you did an amazing job. it looks great. How aggressive is the grip?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Stippling plastic is a lot easier than it is wood. It's also prone to more screw ups if you're not paying attention to what you're doing. I think you did an amazing job. it looks great. How aggressive is the grip?
Thank you. I would compare it to the Taurus Millennium G2 grip in terms of aggressiveness. But it can be sanded and hit with a torch to soften it up to your liking.
 

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Fine sand paper and some WD-40 will take it down without losing luster. I had to take some of the aggressiveness off my G2 as it was tearing up my holster. I am very leery of using heat on a plastic frame as it does not take much to ruin the plastic (becomes to o brittle if burned) or just change the finish in a way that can not be corrected easily.

Guess I need to look up Tactical Toolbox again and get some coupon codes as I am getting the itch to build another, maybe a 26/27 size this time. Lots of LEO turn-in Glocks on the market at or around $300 at the moment, looks to be the cheapest way to go and you can always play around with the old frame with stippling and maybe removing those finger groves and then sell it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I know. I haven't finished this one yet and am itching to build the subcompact one as well.
 

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You can get a black SC from MidwayUSA for $75 and free shipping. I am waiting on the white. The Compacts in Ready Mod are also on sale for $75.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
That's a heck of a deal. Plus they're offering free shipping over 49 bucks... tempting
 

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Looks very nice.:cool:
 

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All 3 of my Polymer80 guns. Gray is actually a G-23 slide with 9mm conversion barrel. The OD Green gun is a full size (G-17) frame with a G-17 OEM slide by AlphaWolf. Coyote Brown gun is a Brownells special with a Brownells open top G-19 slide with RMR cut.

Firearm Gun Trigger Airsoft gun Gun barrel

OD Green gun has the same AphaWolf slide after being sent off to Maple Leaf for slide milling and Cerakote. Gray gun is my carry gun and has TruGlo TFO nightsights.

Firearm Gun Trigger Airsoft gun Gun accessory
 
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Still waiting for the white ones to come in.
 
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