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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My newest generation pt145 has been having light strike issues since day 1 and I cannot seem to fix it... I have fully cleaned the striker and striker channel (several times) and even tried using graphite for lubrication but nothing seems to work. I have tried Winchester, Remington, fiocchi, pmc and federal ammo and all have given me issues. About ten percent of the fiocchi, five percent of the Winchester and Remington, 2 percent with pmc, and rarely with federal, I get light strikes... This makes me feel pretty confident its not an ammo issue... The gun has already been back to Miami once for light strikes and feeding issues. Thankfully they resolved the feeding issue but the light strikes seem to continue... I have about 800 rounds through the gun and so I think the gun should be broken in by now.... I absolutely love everything else about the gun, the grip the feel the accuracy, the 10+1 capacity, its a great gun and I want it to do well, but it keeps leaving me disappointed... Any ideas on what to do? Any way to get harder strikes? I hate to say it but I'm about ready to cut my losses and sell the gun for something I can trust as a daily ccw....
 

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One of the first things I did with my PT145 (after thoroughly cleaning the firing pin channel) was to do a little light deburring with 600 grit sandpaper on the firing pin itself. Then I rolled it up tightly and and ran it in and out of the channel itself. You need to take the firing pin block out for this, which means you have to detail strip the upper (with the exception of the key lock). There are a number of openings inside the channel, and any one of them is a candidate for a raised edge that could drag on the firing pin which is why I did the polishing inside the channel.

While you've got it out, take a good look at the firing pin block. I found some peening on mine which I removed with a needle file, followed by a little polishing. It was dragging on my firing pin enough to cause the odd light strike. Take a close look at the firing pin when you first remove it, and see if you noticed any unusually shiny areas - might point you to the area that's causing the problem.

When I reassemble mine I always use Rem Dri Lube with Teflon. It's cleaner than graphite, and teflon is just about the slipperiest substance known to man. I give it a short spray in the firing pin channel, on the firing pin itself, the inside of the firing pin, and the firing pin spring. I clean the firing pin and channel every time I clean the pistol with a Q-Tip and solvent, and I pay particular attention to the end of the firing pin channel. I also run pipe cleaners through the hole the firing pin passes through on it's way to the primers just to make sure nothing is catching there. I do this religiously and I can't remember the last time I had a light strike. Best I can do for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So I took the firing pin out and there do not seem to be any signs of excessive rubbing. No extra shine anywhere. I am not sure how to remove the pin block and couldn't find anything after searching the forum and Google besides one that says there is a screw that needs to be removed to access the pin block, but I don't see any screws anywhere on my slide?
 

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To get the firing pin block out you have to remove the extractor - they're kind of interlinked like a jigsaw puzzle. To get the extractor out you have to drive out the pin that holds it in place, and IIRC you have to drive it out from the bottom up. I always use an appropriately sized punch to do it - I drive the pin out leaving the punch in place. Then I put my thumb over the back part of the extractor and apply pressure and remove the punch. Then I slowly release the tension. Be careful - there are a couple springs under the extractor, and the one for the loaded chamber indicator is TINY. Once you've got the extractor out you should be able to remove the firing pin block. When you put it back together, the firing pin block needs to go in before you reinstall the extractor.

Before I detail strip a pistol I like to take a close look at a parts diagram so I know what to expect. Sometimes it helps with reassembly too. The parts diagram for the PT145 is in the back of the manual, or you can look at it online. I prefer the online version because I can zoom in on the parts. Here's a link to the manual - http://www.taurususa.com/pdf/polymer_pistol_manual.pdf
 

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I'm having the same problems with my 3rd gen PT-145. I can take it apart clean it to operating room standards and it may or may not work. I cannot trust it and that sucks because I like the pistol in every other way. ( no so much the sights ) My eyes are too poor to try to detail strip this weapon to try to polish the firing pin with out the fear of just having a pile of parts instead of a pistol. I have soaked the slide in powder solvent over night then blow everything out with high pressure air with a non-OSHA blow gun. I have thought about sending it back to Taurus for repairs but when they get it the pistol may be working and they may just send it back. What to do? Sell or trade it in on something else? Local Gunsmith?

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I'm having the same problems with my 3rd gen PT-145. I can take it apart clean it to operating room standards and it may or may not work. I cannot trust it and that sucks because I like the pistol in every other way. ( no so much the sights ) My eyes are too poor to try to detail strip this weapon to try to polish the firing pin with out the fear of just having a pile of parts instead of a pistol. I have soaked the slide in powder solvent over night then blow everything out with high pressure air with a non-OSHA blow gun. I have thought about sending it back to Taurus for repairs but when they get it the pistol may be working and they may just send it back. What to do? Sell or trade it in on something else? Local Gunsmith? View attachment 27345
I'd try a local gunsmith if you have had the pistol more than a year. Reason I say that is it's pretty minimal work that needs to be done, and you can probably get a gunsmith to do it for around the same cost as the postage to Miami. I wouldn't give up on the pistol though. PT145's are sweet, and I still haven't seen anything else with the same mix of features and ergonomics. It's one of the most narrow compact 45's available, and that makes for a very concealable pistol.

Here's something else for you guys to check while you're checking stuff - take a very close look at the end of the firing pin. It should be rounded. If it's flattened on the tip that can also act like a light strike. JAT
 

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I'm having the same problems with my 3rd gen PT-145. I can take it apart clean it to operating room standards and it may or may not work. I cannot trust it and that sucks because I like the pistol in every other way. ( no so much the sights ) My eyes are too poor to try to detail strip this weapon to try to polish the firing pin with out the fear of just having a pile of parts instead of a pistol. I have soaked the slide in powder solvent over night then blow everything out with high pressure air with a non-OSHA blow gun. I have thought about sending it back to Taurus for repairs but when they get it the pistol may be working and they may just send it back. What to do? Sell or trade it in on something else? Local Gunsmith?

View attachment 27345
After reading this again, I have a question for you - are you saying you have never removed the firing pin? If you haven't I suggest removing it and thoroughly cleaning the channel. If you only clean it by sticking a red tube in the firing pin hole and hosing it out you may well have some crud in there. It's hard to get around the edges of the firing pin channel without physically sticking something down in there to get it out, coupled with the fact that there aren't many places for the crud to go if you do the 'hose out' technique. Removing the firing pin is something that needs to be done periodically for thorough cleaning. The only small part you really need to watch is the firing pin return spring that sits between the firing pin hook and the frame on the little shiny metal rod that protrudes from the frame. Other than that the parts are pretty easy to keep track of.

A full disassembly of the firing pin assembly is needed periodically for another reason too. A number of members have had the firing pin spring assembly fail (as in the plastic rod broke), and one of the symptoms is light striking or no striking. If you shoot it you need to inspect the parts every now and then just to make sure they're serviceable. You also need to change the firing pin spring periodically - maybe every 2k rounds or so - so sooner or later it's going to need to be disassembled anyway.

If you don't feel comfortable doing that I'd be looking around for someone with mechanical aptitude and better eyes to do the job for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You are a life saver with all the useful information! I don't have the right size punch so I will pick one up along with some fine sand paper as soon as I am able. The striker looks unblemished though so I'm not too confident there are any burrs or anything slowing down the striker... Are there any other options for a harder strike? Maybe a spacer to compress the striker spring slightly more for a harder hit? Or maybe just buy a new spring and hope its stiffer?
 

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After reading this again, I have a question for you - are you saying you have never removed the firing pin? If you haven't I suggest removing it and thoroughly cleaning the channel. If you only clean it by sticking a red tube in the firing pin hole and hosing it out you may well have some crud in there. It's hard to get around the edges of the firing pin channel without physically sticking something down in there to get it out, coupled with the fact that there aren't many places for the crud to go if you do the 'hose out' technique. Removing the firing pin is something that needs to be done periodically for thorough cleaning. The only small part you really need to watch is the firing pin return spring that sits between the firing pin hook and the frame on the little shiny metal rod that protrudes from the frame. Other than that the parts are pretty easy to keep track of.

A full disassembly of the firing pin assembly is needed periodically for another reason too. A number of members have had the firing pin spring assembly fail (as in the plastic rod broke), and one of the symptoms is light striking or no striking. If you shoot it you need to inspect the parts every now and then just to make sure they're serviceable. You also need to change the firing pin spring periodically - maybe every 2k rounds or so - so sooner or later it's going to need to be disassembled anyway.

If you don't feel comfortable doing that I'd be looking around for someone with mechanical aptitude and better eyes to do the job for you.

You are correct, I have never removed the firing pin. Actually I'm not sure on how to go about it....

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You are a life saver with all the useful information! I don't have the right size punch so I will pick one up along with some fine sand paper as soon as I am able. The striker looks unblemished though so I'm not too confident there are any burrs or anything slowing down the striker... Are there any other options for a harder strike? Maybe a spacer to compress the striker spring slightly more for a harder hit? Or maybe just buy a new spring and hope its stiffer?
You don't want to start putting foreign objects into your firearm. If it's working properly it should strike plenty hard. The firing pin spring assembly can be disassembled (the end that looks like a tiny hat will screw off if you compress the spring a little), and you could try a stiffer spring if you could find one, but I'd be hesitant to do that. For one thing it will make the trigger heavier, and for another it could cause the spring assembly to fail. The spring is held in place by a tiny washer and a 'knob' on the end of the plastic rod. I'd be afraid that a stiffer spring would push the washer right over the knob.

I'd take it apart and try smoothing the channel with very tightly rolled 600 grit sandpaper. But again you have to be really careful not to lose any small springs. You can test the strength of your strike by dropping a pencil (eraser first) into the barrel, hold the barrel vertically, pull the trigger and note how high the pencil jumps. You'll need to repeat this several times to get a benchmark, but it should send the pencil all the way out of the barrel. When I do it with mine it clears the barrel by probably 6-8".

And I'll put this disclaimer on it - if you're pretty proficient at assembly/disassembly of firearms then detail stripping and reassembly is no big deal. If you're not, reassembly can be a little tricky. Some folks like to do the disassembly with the weapon inside a plastic bag so if any springs go flying they won't go far. The one I always worry about is the spring that operates the loaded chamber indicator - that little sucker is about 1/16th of an inch in diameter, and about 1/4" long. (to get it back in I lay it in place on the extractor, then I position the loaded chamber indicator and put the whole thing back in the pistol with the pistol laying on it's side, and the extractor spring already in place) You'll have to be the judge of your own abilities, so you make the call - and remember, the first time is always the hardest. Just be aware that if you loose a part, or can't get it reassembled it's probably not going to be covered by the warranty.

Or the other option that's always available is to send it on a vacation to Miami. If you haven't had it more than a year, they'll pay the postage both ways.

You are correct, I have never removed the firing pin. Actually I'm not sure on how to go about it....
To remove the firing pin you first have to remove the plastic dust cover. It clips over the firing pin spring stop, and you have to carefully pry the leading edge up enough so you can push the dust cover to the rear. Use a VERY small screw driver, and don't pry the plastic any more than is absolutely necessary to clear the stop. Take your time and go slow as it's pretty easy to bend the plastic, and if you do that it will probably come off the first time the weapon is fired. It's not like it's a huge deal - you don't need the dust cover for the weapon to operate properly, and the last time I needed one Taurus sent me five of them for free.

Once the dust cover is off you'll see the hole in the stop with a little green circle in the middle of it. The green circle is the back of the firing pin spring. Just take the biggest punch that will fit through the hole and push the green circle in a little, and push the stop down slowly. The spring assembly is going to pop a little when it's clear of the stop, but not a whole bunch.

Then take your finger, and pull back on the firing pin hook and the firing pin with the spring assembly will both come out. Be careful when you do this as the firing pin return spring will be just in front of the firing pin hook, and you don't want to lose it. As soon as you've got the firing pin out, remove the return spring and put it somewhere that it won't get lost until you're ready for reassembly.
 

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And as an afterthought - you might be able to accomplish the smoothing without a complete disassembly. You could try just removing the firing pin, insert the rolled 600 grit into the channel, and push down on the firing pin stop from the under side of the slide to get the channel clear. You'll need to keep constant pressure on the firing pin block while you're doing the operation, but it might just work. I haven't tried it this way, but it might work - at any rate it's on you if you want to try it that way. And don't forget the Rem Dri Lube when you reassemble - it's some pretty magical stuff.
 

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For the pencil test with the striker channel freshly cleaned, I typically get about an inch and a half of lift (inside the barrel that is, the pencil never leaves it).
It should definitely jump higher than that. I'm starting to sound like a broken record, but if all the parts look right the only logical reason is something binding on the firing pin in the channel. Even if the firing pin itself looks okay, a little polishing on it - particularly the slightly enlarged shoulder just behind the business end - couldn't hurt. The tolerances are pretty close in there, so any polishing you do is going to give you a little more clearance.

And again, it could be the firing pin block itself causing the problem. If you dry fire a lot without a snap cap you can peen the firing pin block - as I did on mine, which is how I know it can happen. But to be able to tell if that's the problem you have to get the block out where you can look at it closely. I found some peening on mine which I knocked off with a round needle file and polished with 600 grit, and the light strikes went away and haven't returned.

The good news is, if the pencil is only moving an inch or so, it should be real easy to tell when you've got the problem fixed. Gotta be optimistic. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
This is true! It is clear my gun is not striking properly so it should be clear once it is fixed! Unfortunately I have not had time to pick up any sand paper or the correct punch. I am a senior in college and its cram time for finals... so it might be a week or so. I really appreciate the help and will keep you posted we with any updates!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Alright so I couldn't wait any more and pulled the pin block out. No burrs or anything that would stick out into the channel, BUT I did notice a very worn section of the block where the firing pin has hit it many times. The paint is worn off and there is a dent where it has been struck. Even with dry firing the pin should never actually strike the block right?? Skin Stain Fawn Paw
 

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Alright so I couldn't wait any more and pulled the pin block out. No burrs or anything that would stick out into the channel, BUT I did notice a very worn section of the block where the firing pin has hit it many times. The paint is worn off and there is a dent where it has been struck. Even with dry firing the pin should never actually strike the block right?? View attachment 27599
That's the way mine looked. When you don't have a round in the chamber the firing pin goes forward farther than it normally would, and I think that's got something to do with how the damage can occur. What I did on mine was to carefully remove the peening paying particular attention to the circular channel - and being careful not to change the geometry of the 'arc.' Then a little polishing with 600 grit to get it nice and smooth. You don't want to remove too much material or the firing pin block won't work. Just get rid of the metal that's been pushed towards the pass through for the firing pin. I wouldn't be a bit surprised if that's not what was causing the light strikes. One way to find out...

When you reassemble you'll want to make sure you're firing pin block is still working. To do that simply lay the slide upside down, and try to push the firing pin forward by pressing on the hook. It shouldn't budge. Then push down on the firing pin block and push forward on the firing pin hook again. It should go forward slightly, and the firing pin should protrude from the hole. At this point don't ease the pressure off the firing pin hook - just let your finger slip off the hook so the return spring can do its thing. Then release the pressure on the firing pin block, and once again try to push forward on the firing pin hook. It should not go forward.
 

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Just to clarify - don't try to remove the entire shiny area - just the edge around the semi-circular cut out, and maybe back just a pinch from there. And make sure the entire cutout is smooth. Very light sanding with 600 grit should do it - preferably wrapped around a dowel or similar round object.
 

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And don't forget to polish the inside of the channel. The firing pin block might only be part of the problem, and you may have a raised edge around one of the openings contributing to the problem. Clean it out good afterwards to get rid of anything that comes off the sandpaper, lube, reassemble, and test.
 
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