[hss.strat]

I picked up an older Model 85 Concealed Hammer last week for cheap. I couldn't turn it down at the price I paid but I was really displeased with the DAO trigger pull. I didn't check it with a scale but guess the pull was somewhere around the 15lb. area. Everything about the trigger was bad. Heavy, jerky, went from being a brick wall at fully out to snapping through like there was nothing there. It took some practice to figure out how to stage the trigger. I took it to the range earlier this week and was very surprised with how accurate the gun was. After ~50 rounds at the range and x number of dry firing I developed a pretty good bruise on my finger from that heavy pull.

So I hopped on Brownells and ordered a "shooters pak" which came with both a 6.5 lb and 9 lb trigger spring as well as a 9 lb hammer spring. Installation was pretty straightforward even though I had never worked on a revolver before. The only problem I ran into was getting the new trigger spring on, I was lucky enough that nothing shot loose too disappear behind a cabinet.

I am thrilled with the new feel. It's still not as smooth as my Kahr trigger but it's light enough that I can slowly pull all the way through to the break. I haven't taken this to the range yet, but based on dry firing I would highly recommend this for anyone not satisfied with the heavy DA trigger pull.

Thought some fellow model 85 owners might be interested.

 

[whodog]

I put Wolf springs in my 905 9mm revolver and got light strikes, so I had to put a couple of spacers (washers) on the hammer shaft. Planning on going to the range on Tuesday to try it out again...

 

[AdesteAnimo]

I got the shooters pack for my 617 but ended up having to trim some coils from the 10# mian spring replacement, however this was very successful. Prior to trimming the 10 # mainspring the revolver would not cycle and the stock mainspring was shorter than the lighter 10# mainspring, (however I did notice that the 11 pound mainspring in the shooter pack was the same length as the Taurus mainspring leading me to believe the 617 has a stock 11#er). The 10# trigger spring was fine though. No fitment or performance issues. The thng shoots "like Butta" now

I am interested in the outcome? I have a new M85. The trigger pull is actually fairly crisp, no grit, has a nice break and reset, however like yours a BIT stout. Did you use both 9# or did you use the 6.5 and the 9? Did you have to trim either spring? I guess you won't know if you have light strikes until you go to the range. This is the typical problem with the M85 shooters pack. The improvement in action sounds great though.

 

[whodog]

I had to trim my trigger spring one coil...

 

[MOONDAWG]

I've used these springs in several of my small framed Taurus revolvers including stainless steel & total titanium models.

I'm very pleased with the results & have recomended them to anyone wanting to improve their trigger pulls.

 

[AdesteAnimo]

Hello MD
Did you have to trim either the main or the trigger springs and did you use the 6.5/9 or the 9/9 for the main and trigger? I have a new SS m85. I will "by God" invent a spring compressor tool, LOL, if I continue swapping these springs!
Thanks

 

[hss.strat]

I used the 6.5 lb trigger spring. No trimming necessary as I have the older model. The instructions that came with the springs said they may need trimming on new models.

 

[Laker]

I don't believe in modifying my handguns. The best trigger job you can do to any firearm, is thousands of rounds down range!

 

[hss.strat]

I don't believe in modifying my handguns. The best trigger job you can do to any firearm, is thousands of rounds down range!

oh brother...

Yeah, well my wife couldn't work the 15+ lb trigger pull and considering that this was purchased for her to learn to shoot with, that was a problem.

 

[whodog]

I don't believe in modifying my handguns. The best trigger job you can do to any firearm, is thousands of rounds down range!

Haha... My finger, both left and right hands, can only handle pulling that trigger maybe 15 times each per range time, or dry firing time. You telling me that I gotta wait for thousands of trigger pulls for it be easier???? I'll either be dead or my forefinger will be as big as my arm w/ all that developed muscle. Oh, yes, did I mention the arthritis in my fingers, LOL?

 

[kubelkampf]

I changed to the Wolff springs - 11 lb hammer and 6.5 lb trigger rebound, on my 851. Even after shimming the hammer spring, I had 2 - 3 FTF's per huindred rounds, consistently. I also had a cylinder stop malfunction (no lockup), though that MIGHT have been due only to the action being dirty. No question - the trigger feel was MUCH better. But, reliability suffered a bit. There are always trade-offs - you can't avoid them. I have since switched back to the standard hammer spring and the Wolff 9 lb trigger spring - and not one malfunction or FTF since. I am now so used to the gun, as is, that I don't feel the need to change it.

Every gun is different, of course. Certainly, every shooter is different as well. What works for one may not for another. That is why I think it very important to tailor the details for the individual - taking into full account whatever the compromises might be - then PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE. There exists absolutely NO substitute for training.....

Oh, by the way, I have RA, particularly in my hands. I can no longer shoot comfortably with other than soft rubber grips (a pity, because I like the beautiful wood grips). However, despite the pain, exercise is GOOD for my RA. Yes, due to the pain, one wants to NOT move. Many days, I don't want to get out of bed. But, that only makes it worse, in the end. I can't speak about osteoarthritis, though, in that regard. Even yet, training and exercise make it tolerable - and I don't intend to quit shooting until I die, or until I can no longer pick up a gun, whichever comes first.

 

[JimSheldon]

So I hopped on Brownells and ordered a "shooters pak" which came with both a 6.5 lb and 9 lb trigger spring as well as a 9 lb hammer spring. Installation was pretty straightforward even though I had never worked on a revolver before. The only problem I ran into was getting the new trigger spring on, I was lucky enough that nothing shot loose too disappear behind a cabinet.

I am thrilled with the new feel. It's still not as smooth as my Kahr trigger but it's light enough that I can slowly pull all the way through to the break. I haven't taken this to the range yet, but based on dry firing I would highly recommend this for anyone not satisfied with the heavy DA trigger pull.

Thought some fellow model 85 owners might be interested.

That's exactly what I did with the one I got a couple of years ago. A bit of advice for anyone else doing this, the trigger spring guide rod (on the older ones anyway - haven't had a new one apart so I can't comment on them) has a small hole in it. If you carefully pull the trigger back far enough so this hole is exposed you can stick a small diameter paper clip or other steel pin through that hole and it will hold the spring captive while you remove it. Be careful and do the hammer spring the same way or you will be hunting parts!!!! (don't ask me how I know this).

Pay careful attention to how the parts come out as the new ones will go back in the same order. Carefully compress the new trigger spring on the guide with a pair of needle nose pliers to the point you can re-insert the paper clip. Do the same with the hammer spring and your re-assembly chores will be MUCH easier with less cussing and swearing (for those so inclined). I would recomment the 6.5 pound trigger spring, but make sure to test the action to insure the trigger resets after pulling it. It may reset okay when you dry fire it, but depending on how rough the surfaces are, it may not reset properly under recoil when you fire the gun. If that happens, you have two options. Either install the 9 pound trigger spring and put up with a slightly heavier trigger pull, or VERY CAREFULY polish all the side surfaces of the trigger, hammer and the frame pieces. This must be done very carefully so as not to remove any more metal than necessary to just POLISH the surfaces. After doing the polish job, use some brake cleaner to flush out the area and then very LIGHTLY lube the surfaces with quality gun oil before reassembling.

My advice only and you are on your own if you do it yourself. If you aren't really experienced in such things, best take it to a qualified gunsmith (really the best choice anyway).

Jim Sheldon

 

[Armd2DaTeeth]

Good stuff ta hear as I own a M85UL Duo-Tone with one on the way.

 

[JimSheldon]

I forgot to mention that in order to disassemble the revolver, first you have to remove the grips, then remove the screws (carefully so you don't bugger them up) in the side plate. Remove the side plate, LIFTING FROM THE LOWER REAR as there is a tab that fits under the frame edge up near the top right of the frame. If you try to pry the plate out any other way, you will bugger up that tab and then it may not stay together properly when you re-assemble it. When re-assembling the side plate to the gun, insert this tab under the frame first and then carefully lower the side plate back into position. BEFORE trying to put the screws back, make sure you have the side plate properly re-installed and that it fits flush. If it isn't flush all the way around, you ain't done it right - do it over.

BTW, that side-plate removal and re-install information holds true for just about every brand of revolver you will ever run into.

 

[hss.strat]

hrm, I didn't notice a tab at all. I'll have to take it apart and look again. I used my all-purpose glock tool and the back end of the screwdriver to smack the plate off from the other side. Reassemble was just dropping the plate on and pushing firmly on all sides. Now you've got me concerned.

 

[1550vt]

I wouldn't take it apart to look for the tab on the front nose of the side plate. It you have it back together and it's all flush.....you have in in right. You can't put it in unless you have the tab hooked under the frame near the FP area. If it screwed back together.....it has to be right. The tab may-or-may-not be that obvious.

The proper way to remove the side plate (just like you did) is to remove the grips and the side plate screws and "wrap" the frame across the grip area on the left side with something plastic, wood or hard rubber...like a screwdriver handle. This will usually loosen the plate enough to be lifted off....if it doesn't fall off in you hand. Just hold the gun in your weak hand and give it a couple of good solid wraps.

 

[JimSheldon]

I wouldn't take it apart to look for the tab on the front nose of the side plate. It you have it back together and it's all flush.....you have in in right. You can't put it in unless you have the tab hooked under the frame near the FP area. If it screwed back together.....it has to be right. The tab may-or-may-not be that obvious.

The proper way to remove the side plate (just like you did) is to remove the grips and the side plate screws and "rap" the frame across the grip area on the left side with something plastic, wood or hard rubber...like a screwdriver handle. This will usually loosen the plate enough to be lifted off....if it doesn't fall off in you hand. Just hold the gun in your weak hand and give it a couple of good solid raps.

Thanks! Your description of the process was much better than mine. What I called a "Tab" is more like a beveled edge with the bevel sloping toward the under side of the plate. That's why it isn't all that obvious and if it fits flush when you're done, "ya done it right".

Jim

 

[AdesteAnimo]

I would also mention when buttoning things up to be aware of the firing pin retaining pin that sticks out right below the side plate tab and the firing pin assembly. It sticks out vertically and the tip can be sheared off when feeling for the tab. It can also fall out, which happened to me. I did not notice it because i is about the size and color of a 3 millimeter piece of pencil lead. I put about 200 rounds 38sp at the range, however when I took it home and was test firing some new primers (no gunpowder or bullets ofcourse) the hammer locked back. I opned it up and the hammer spring had fubared becuase there was no retaining pin! Ooooops. I guess the point being don't rush, and attention to detail.

 

[AdesteAnimo]

Since this thread has the attn of some folks who might be familiar with the internals of the Taurus revolver and is about spring mods, Quick question. I have the lighter hammer and trigger springs in my 617. The action is no less than a sweet S&W trigger. No light strikes. However, when rapid firing if I short stroke, what used to happen is a clear lock up forcing me to release the trigger. Now what happens is no cylinder rotation no hammer strike however the trigger action pulls through. Upon full release of the trigger it goes back into battery. This does not cause any misfires and really instead of the trigger locking upon short stroke it pulls through like your tranny slipping. However if I rapid fire and full stroke it it does fine. I realize DA is DA in a revolver . I am however tempted to swap in the stock hammer spring since I am not sure this is good for the internals like the hand or the sear. Any wisdom will be appreciated

 

[TXVTXN]

oh brother...

Yeah, well my wife couldn't work the 15+ lb trigger pull and considering that this was purchased for her to learn to shoot with, that was a problem.

1+...I just received my Shooter's Pack from Wolff in the mail today. I will get it installed and see if my wife likes the lighter trigger pull since I too bought the M85 for her. At this point, she prefers my PT140 and I will not stand for that!!