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I recently purchased a new mod.66 " stainless and am disappointed with it. After firing around 14 rds. it gets warm and the cylinder refuses to rotate. Also it will not swing out. Once you get the cyl. to swing you have to jam hard to eject the empty case. Also the rear site is all the way left. Anyone else have these same
issues? Very poor quality control!
 

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Sorry to hear about your problems. I don't have an answer for you other than send it back to Taurus and they will make it right. Someone more knowledgeable will probably be along shortly with more info for you.

And I almost forgot...

WELCOME TO THE FORUM
 

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Factory ammo or handloads? Over pressure will contribute to that, but not cause it all the time. Just my guess.
 

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Welcome to TA from Minnesota.
 

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I recently purchased a new mod.66 " stainless and am disappointed with it. After firing around 14 rds. it gets warm and the cylinder refuses to rotate. Also it will not swing out. Once you get the cyl. to swing you have to jam hard to eject the empty case. Also the rear site is all the way left. Anyone else have these same
issues? Very poor quality control!
OK, this may be part of the problem, or it could be something else. ....Not knowing what type of ammo you are shooting, I will take a stab in the dark. I don't think the heating of the gun has anything to do with the problem. What I think is, one or more of the primers or the complete round is blowing back slightly out of the primer pocket or the whole casing is coming back a little. Just a possibility, this happened to me once. .....As for the hard ejection of the empty cases, this is most likely a result of not having a dry cylinder, i.e., oil inside the cylinder after cleaning, a film on or dirty casings or some type of residue on the casings as you load them. And the extreme problem could be machine marks in the cylinders which the expanding case is swelling into. If this is the case the gun needs to go back to Taurus and be repaired. Hope you can get this fixed soon.

monkey welcome.jpg
 

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Thanks for your input! Yesterday I took the gun apart and thoroughly cleaned it although it did not look like it had any gunk in it but it was pretty dry inside so I did put a light coat of oil in the workings. I hope to get to try it out today. I did not notice any blown back primers.
 

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Just a heads up.....If you tell Taurus customer service that you used reloads, they will void your revolvers warranty. Good Luck with your issue.
 

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Wait a dad gum minute here!!
you revolver guys have been telling me all this time that revolvers don't jam, thats what you guys tout as the primary reason for carrying these bulging low capacity things!
Now I find that you have mislead me all this time!!
I am very sad and disheartened!!!-------

I am not a revolver guy but If I was I would take a feeler gauge and see what type of spacing that I had between the forcing cone and the cylinder at different places along the front of the cylinder, I can make my Dan Wesson do this exact same thing by closing the gap to much on the barrel.
 

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Bummer. Its no fun having to return a brand new gun to the manufacturer for repair/service. In the past 5 years, I had to return a Taurus, a Ruger and a Sig Sauer, all 3 were brand new. It happens. If you end up sending it back to Taurus, and maybe I got lucky when I needed to send one back a few years ago from what I have read and heard, but Taurus had great service. Good luck and keep us posted.
 

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Wait a dad gum minute here!!
you revolver guys have been telling me all this time that revolvers don't jam, thats what you guys tout as the primary reason for carrying these bulging low capacity things!
Now I find that you have mislead me all this time!!
I am very sad and disheartened!!!-------

I am not a revolver guy but If I was I would take a feeler gauge and see what type of spacing that I had between the forcing cone and the cylinder at different places along the front of the cylinder, I can make my Dan Wesson do this exact same thing by closing the gap to much on the barrel.
I've been shooting revolvers sense 1984. My first jam hasn't happened yet. How about your autos?
 

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I've been shooting revolvers sense 1984. My first jam hasn't happened yet. How about your autos?
NO! I have been shooting semi autoes for a loooooT!! longer than that!
Plus bet that I can clear a semi auto jam a lot faster than you can a revolver jam, you know IF you ever get one.
was that your question?
Oh and I shoot an average of about 8000 rounds per year as well.-----------:D
so yea some jams in some semis, then others not a single one.
 

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I am assuming you have adjustable sites, are they tapped to far to the left or does the windage need adjustment? When you say the cylinder refuses to rotate are you referring to when it is engaged in the frame or when you have it open? Did you check your Yoke screw when you cleaned it to make sure it was firmly seated. These have a tendency to back out while shooting on any revolver that has a S&W like design. If you are firing a combination of .357 and .38's you should fire your .357 first. If you shoot your .38's first and then shoot your magnums the .357 casing will stick in the cylinder sometimes since the .38 are shorter they will leave fouling in the bore that will cause the .357 casing to bind in there when it heats up.
 

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I recently purchased a new mod.66 " stainless and am disappointed with it. After firing around 14 rds. it gets warm and the cylinder refuses to rotate. Also it will not swing out. Once you get the cyl. to swing you have to jam hard to eject the empty case. Also the rear site is all the way left. Anyone else have these same
issues? Very poor quality control!
I had this problem with my S&W 500 at Sand Lake a few weeks ago. Locked up tight. Let it cool down, using a little force, got the cylinder to come out. Cleaned well, and removed any crude from under the star, made sure all screws were tight and was good to go. The extractor star screw was a little loose allowing crude to get under the star causing it to bind up especially after it was warm.

Of the several revolvers I have, when I have a binding issue in the cylinder that was working just fine I always check under the star first. Most of the time it resolves the problem.
 

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I ordered a model 66 about 4 years ago & when it arrived it had the same exact issues you're talking about. I was a little upset, to say the least, so I contacted Taurus CS to have it sent back. Had I been a little patient, I could've saved myself some aggravation because I ended up sending it back a 2nd time & it still didn't come back as 'tight' as it was in the beginning.

What I didn't realize is that the gun would've loosened up with use & over time. Sure, Taurus revolvers are unlike other brands that you can shoot trouble free out of the box, but had I done a search on this, or other, forums before returning it, I would've been a lot better off as the lockup & timing was not as good as it was when I 1st got it.

The moral of the story is sometimes a 'fix' by Taurus CS is worse than the problem.
 
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