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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been wanting to play around with this or a while and today I did it. I'm going to outline what I did for those who are curious and for those that notice something I did or didn't do -- please let me know!

First, I took off the side plate, trigger spring and rod assy, hammer spring and rod assy plus the cylinder. I sprayed everything out with Hoppe's aerosol to get it clean and dry. I then put auto polishing compound on all pins and metal to metal surfaces to polish them a bit.

I then sat around for most of the afternoon dry firing the gun. After it had been fired for a time, I took it down again and sprayed it with Hoppe's a second time. Dried everything off and let it sit a while. (I live alone so that wasn't a problem...)

I then coated all the surfaces with Eezox dry lube and let it sit. Wiped it down after a couple of hours and coated it again. Did this one more time and let it sit for 3 days while I waited for the Wolff replacement springs to arrive in the mail. Got the mail today.

Took the gun and laid it all out. Took the spring off the hammer rod and replaced it with the 11# Wolff spring, replacing the 14# original. That really wasn't too bad! I then took the 11# trigger spring off and went to replace it.

The spring kit comes with a 9# and a 6.5# spring. I didn't want to make it TOO light so I went with the 9# spring. OK, here came the problems! :(

That trigger spring is a MONSTER to replace! I am not completely sure I did this right, but fully compressed, the new spring was just a teensy bit too long by maybe one coil or so! Hey, what's going on here? This was a major difficulty. Either I did something wrong or the springs are two different sizes. So I figured I had the 6.5# spring for a spare, as well as the OEM spring I took off so I cut the new spring by one coil. Just enough to get it to fit in the space allowed. Hope this wouldn't be a problem ....

Got it all back together and wiped it down. The trigger wasn't hugely different than before, but noticeably smoother and yes, I could tell it was lightened just a bit. I have two of these guns and side by side comparisons were noticeable. I LIKE IT!!!

So, for around $10 and some time, I did what I consider a pretty good trigger job.My Taurus, while not a S&W is now smoother and a bit lighter in the trigger. If you've got some time and the desire to spiff up your revolver's trigger pull, I would highly recommend doing this. Didn't take too long and you can vary the prep to suit your own techniques. Then get the spring kit and watch that darn trigger spring! :( With a little time and patience it can be done and I think you'll definitely like the difference!
 

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I took an easier route with my 605, i sanded and filed the parts that were rough from the factory it really smoothed it out now it has a really nice trigger pull.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Nice. Any guides for doing such work to the 605?
Look in the "stickies" portion of the forum above. Poster "Chiccarones" has done a superb write up along with pictures. (That's what gave me the boost to do the disassembly and trigger work...) The pictures along with the fact that it really isn't such a big deal to start with. Now, I didn't take the whole gun down like in the stickie, but taking the springs and the parts attached while leaving the rest of the gun alone is NOT a big job. Looks a little complicated, but it ain't. And you have the pictures to fall back on in case you hit a snag. I'd greatly recommend doing it!

Got the springs (kit) from Wolff Gunsprings Springs for TAURUS Revolvers for under $10. A screwdriver, basic hand tools (vice-grips came in handy to hold the trigger spring rod while working on it. NOT TOO TIGHT!!!) and about 15-30 minutes. If you do the polishing and extra steps I did, give yourself a bit more time.
 

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I just recieved my Wolf Springs.
Monday My order of Jewelers Rogue in Grey, Brown ,& Red arrives.
I plan to polish the Internals in a 85UL Stainless & a Model 605 Stainless.
I saw it done once in a Gun Shop in Mississippi. The Smith used a Dremel Tool and Small Brass Brushes to polish the Internals and Frame interior.
It dropped the internal friction to almost unbelievable smoothness.
I'll post Pics I guess in a New Thread.

Thanks for the Info and the Access
 

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I have a 605 and wanted to lighten up the DA on it. But here's my concern! When you change the hammer spring and trigger spring why doesn't some change the firing in spring with a lighter one, Like Apex sales for the SW j frames? This would eliminate light primer strikes! But Wolff doesn't sale a firing pin spring with the kit.
 
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