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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I posted this once before on another thread and never got a response to the issue of excessive trigger slack (free play or the very low resistance region before the main trigger spring "kicks in"). I tried the trigger pull on another PT140 Pro in a gun shop and it also seemed to have a lot of slack. The trigger is very close to the rear of the trigger guard when the striker releases. Anyway, here's the post from the other thread. I hope that someone answers it.

I have a 3rd generation PT140 Pro. It is , for sure, SA/DA. It also says "Millennium" on the left side of the slide and
"PT140 PRO" on the right side. It does not have a rail. I believe that only the PT145s have a rail. The 3rd generation MIL PROs have a "Z" as the first or second character of the serial number. My only complaint with it is the HUGE amount of trigger travel before it fires. The actual pull after taking up the "slack" is even and light both SA and DA. It shoots well from a rest but I'm pulling low and left free handed. I shoot well with both my 1911 45 and my Taurus 605SH2 357 (titanium - 16 ounces) so I guess that I'll just have to adjust to the PT140s excessive free travel. Are the rest of you experiencing this travel (over 1/2 inch) with the MIL PROs?
 

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gvaldeg1 said:
Are the rest of you experiencing this travel (over 1/2 inch) with the MIL PROs?
Yes, there is a lot of slack, but it does not seem to bother me as much as others. I just chalk it up the requirements of SA/DA trigger. When shooting off-handed for accuracy, I have always taken up the slack until I feel the resistance prior to taking my shot no matter what gun I shoot, rifles included. I had an old .22 semi-auto rifle years ago that had about the same amount of slack. I have always shot this way which is maybe why I don't pay much attention to it. I am sure I would not even think about the slack if I were in a life & death situation.
 

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If the MPro has too much slack for your liking.....Perhaps purchasing something in a 3" 1911 would resolve your trigger slack issues. I have both full size and sub-compact 1911's, both triggers have very little slack and break just over 3.5lbs.... Cocked and Locked 1911 is the safest, fastest handgun made (IMHO)

Good Luck with your Trigger!
 

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The "slack" of the trigger is a trade off for the SA/DA trigger. If the gun were designed as a solely SA (which in fact is the state of many such as the Glock and many S&W)... there the springs are pre-tensioned and if the gun fails to fire, you must manually work the slide to reset the springs. These type of guns can actually be made with a trigger similar to the 1911, however these much be carried "cocked & locked".

Once a MilPro has fired SA... it must have the long take up in order to make the the following DA work.

You need to know that for most issues, there are trade-offs. There are seldom perfect options.
 

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My pt111 has about 1/8" travel slack before the main spring weight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
sethnchrista said:
My pt111 has about 1/8" travel slack before the main spring weight.
Is your PT111 a 3rd generation (SA/DA) or is it a DA only model? The SA/DA seems to be at the root of the long trigger travel.
 

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I know my PT111 Pro 3 Gen, has that long area before you hit the SA, I am close to being able to pull with no detrimental effect on my POA.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Robby said:
I know my PT111 Pro 3 Gen, has that long area before you hit the SA, I am close to being able to pull with no detrimental effect on my POA.
Thanks Robby! I'm sure that I'll get used to it in time. When I slow fire off of a sandbag rest I get pretty good groups. When I shoot without a rest, I'm pulling left and low which I think is coming from the long (but easy) trigger pull. It doesn't happen with my other guns so I guess I'll just have to adjust for the Mil Pro.

BTW, I do know that low and left is usually an indication of "snatching" the trigger but in this case, I think it's caused more by the unusual (for me) position of my finger on the trigger after the long pull.
 

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PS... I have found that when shooting I get better results from a strong, crisp trigger pull... better in rapid shooting than careful squeezed shots. That's good since these guns are designed to be self defense and that doesn't allow carefully aimed shots. Empty the clip and check to see the results as you reload a fresh clip.
 

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gvaldeg1 said:
The 3rd generation MIL PROs have a "Z" as the first or second character of the serial number.
Are you positive that all 3rd gen MIL PRo's have a Z at character position 1 or 2 of the serial number? The reason I ask, is I have a 3rd Gen MIL PRO PT140, MILLENIUM left side slide markings, PT140 PRO right slide side markings, yet my serial numbers are SAMxxxxx.
 

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I'm curious about the serial # thing, too.. as I have ( what I believe to be) a 3rd Gen PT111, with a serial # of TAUxxxx

Do we -know- for sure about this? Guess I could call Taurus, huh?

Tim
 

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First letter=caliber
Second letter=year of manufacture
Third letter=month of manufacture

Z was 2006

TAM=9mm, 2007, February

T=9mm
S=.40
N=.45

Year and month sequence gets complicated as letters don't correspond numerically. This is probably not true for revolvers, don't have one so don't know. Have not seen all semi-autos but probably works for them as well.

This was all explained to me at the range by the shop owner over a period of about three hours and a call to Taurus. I was curious about the millennium pro series. My skull is a little thick. :fart:
 

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Smokewagon said:
First letter=caliber
Second letter=month of manufacture
Third letter=year of manufacture

Z was 2006

TAM=9mm, 2007, February

T=9mm
S=.40
N=.45
Now that is the info all us caring people wanted to know!! :rolleyes:
I just never had the person to talk to, and the incentive to make the call to Tauri CS. You have done us all a great service sir. :D
 

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Actually, I didn't make the call. The range/shop owner did trying to make me understand what he was trying to tell me. He asked for an extension when the phone was answered. I was just standing there looking like my avatar. I believe the info to be true and correct as explained to me. :angel:
 

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Smokewagon said:
First letter=caliber
Second letter=month of manufacture
Third letter=year of manufacture

Z was 2006

TAM=9mm, 2007, February

T=9mm
S=.40
N=.45
So in an attempt to decode my serial number SAVxxxxx
I'm thinking .40 (duh!), January, 2008?

Thanks for this info by the way! Great board y'all got going on here! GREAT info!
 

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Without digging through my notes, I think SAV translates to S-.40, A-2007, and V-October. :)
 

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thanks smoke - while I certainly do NOT mean to step on any toes, this being my 3rd post and all, you mentioned: First letter=caliber
Second letter=month of manufacture (this is where I am confused...if the second letter is the month, how come it is 2007? Wouldn't it be a month, not a year?)
Third letter=year of manufacture (same comment but reverse).

Please, with all do respect, I've learned a ton from this site in the short time I've been here, and by no means am I'm trying to step on anyone's toes...(I like my toes, don't want them shot off)...

Thanks all! I really appreciate everything!
 

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Back to the long trigger pull. The first part of travel moves the firing pin block safety. With the firearm dissembled pull the trigger and notice the part moving on the far right side of the frame(when looking from rear). Look in the bottom of the slide and you will see a corresponding plunger. This plunger is a firing pin block. When the trigger is pulled the sliding part on the frame slides under the plunger and pushes it up into the slide, this unlocks the firing pin and allows it to slide forward striking the primer.
 
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