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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all, first post here.

I have a newer model 85, I really enjoy this all steel snubby. Conceals well, fires every time I pull the trigger, and best of all the bullets go where I want them to!

I've noticed on my spent casings that several rounds have light primer hits. These are reloads using CCI primers. All of the rounds fire without problem, just wondering if this may be an early sign of a future failure?

For what it's worth, I have noticed these light hits on a few different brands of factory ammunition as well.

Any thoughts?

JLaw
 

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How many rounds have you fired? If every round has fired and you've put a hundred rounds or more through it, I wouldn't worry about it. As long as the firing pin protrusion is always enough to set it off, it shouldn't get any worse. Make sure you try it in SA and DA mode.

Now, I did have one that the transfer bar was not quite fitted properly, and it would light strike (and FTF) if I used a slow, deliberate SA trigger pull. If I yanked the trigger back quickly, it went off every time. That one went back for repair.
 

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CCI is notorious for hard primers. Seeing light strikes on other brands is a concern.

Two things that you can do. Pop the slide plate and remove the firing pin and the spring and give them a good cleaning. Make sure nothing is in the channel and clean that as well. Looks for burrs that would interfere with the firing pin.

Next would be to replace the main spring. You might have a weak one for some reason.
 

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id be thinkin primers i just reloaded a bunch of 45acp for my revolver and i had some that didnt go off because of a light hit, never before had i had this, and it was cci primers, i put the light hit ones that didnt go off in my xd and they went bang, iam thinkin if you get a cci a tad to deep, they wont go bang, i have 500 federal primers iam goin to try and if i get no misfires ill know
 

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Be sure your primers are seated all the way down in the primer pocket if you're reloading your ammo. There is no such thing as "too deep". If not seated properly, the firing pin will just drive the primer in deeper and will absorb some of the blow seating it. It WILL misfire. I've had a Rossi 971 that didn't like CCI primers I handloaded. I seated 'em to the bottom, would still get a misfire now and then with CCI. I switched to Winchester primers and the gun ran fine since. However, the gun never coughed on CCI factory loaded ammo. Go figure.

Taurus revolvers are not set up with very excessive mainsprings. Some, like Ruger, over-do the mainspring tension and can be greatly improved just by installing a weaker spring, but Taurus seems to prefer to get that light trigger action right out of the box. My M85 needed no trigger work out of the box and hasn't misfired even once on me in thousands of rounds. The more you fire a gun with flawless results, the more confidence you have in it. If your gun fires 100 percent, I wouldn't mess with it. Try another brand of primer, though, if you worry about your reloads. CCI is VERY hard. I use CCI still in my 7.62x39 reloads so as to avoid the possibility of slam fires in my SKSs, which have no firing pin return spring.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That's right, I forgot that CCI were hard primers. The revolver has very few rounds through it, right in the neighborhood of 400 or so. I suppose if I get bored I could pull the sideplate and go ahead and clean the firing pin and channel, it couldn't hurt. However I may try some different primers and see if the problem goes away first. As far as seating the primers goes, I'm seating them as far in as my RCBS handheld will let me. And next time I'm at the range I'll try a slow SA pull for a while, that's something I have not tried!

Wow, looks like there's some knowledgable folks here. Thanks for the info guys!

JLaw
 

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If it was mine, I'd watch it close. If you get FTF then I'd send it back to the factory. If you reload most of your ammo, find the softest primer components that work.

Out West
 

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I had a similar problem with my 605 after about 400rnds.  I took it back to where I purchased it, and the smith said that Taurus goes light on the mainspring to give that nice trigger pull.  He checked the firing pin channel for obstructions and installed a heavier mainspring.  It made a huge difference.  Now I'm up well over 1000rnds and the only ammo that gave me trouble was some Magtech LRN that had some hard primers.  I checked the gun out for headspace and endshake and it's within specs, even though I feel the specs are sloppy.  IMO I think Taurus also err's on the short side when it comes to their firing pins.  My S&W pins extend further out than the Taurus pins and will shoot anything.  Of course they are mounted on the hammer.  I've actually shattered snap caps in them! 
Upgrade the hammer spring, and in all likelyhood your problems will go away. 
 

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Discussion Starter #9
M'kay, sounds like a plan. Off to look for a new mainspring just in case. Anyone know the weight of the factory spring? Or just order the highest I can find?

JLaw
 

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JLaw said:
That's right, I forgot that CCI were hard primers. The revolver has very few rounds through it, right in the neighborhood of 400 or so. I suppose if I get bored I could pull the sideplate and go ahead and clean the firing pin and channel, it couldn't hurt. However I may try some different primers and see if the problem goes away first. As far as seating the primers goes, I'm seating them as far in as my RCBS handheld will let me. And next time I'm at the range I'll try a slow SA pull for a while, that's something I have not tried!

Wow, looks like there's some knowledgable folks here. Thanks for the info guys!

JLaw
Not sure about your priming tool, but I had a Lee hand priming tool that bent the pivot pin and started seating 'em high and had a problem until I figured that out. I don't care for hand priming tools, use a press mounted "auto prime 2" when I load on a single stage press, but of course my Lee Pro 1000 and Dillon SD progressives do the priming for me with the press.
 

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Jkwas said:
I had a similar problem with my 605 after about 400rnds. I took it back to where I purchased it, and the smith said that Taurus goes light on the mainspring to give that nice trigger pull. He checked the firing pin channel for obstructions and installed a heavier mainspring. It made a huge difference. Now I'm up well over 1000rnds and the only ammo that gave me trouble was some Magtech LRN that had some hard primers. I checked the gun out for headspace and endshake and it's within specs, even though I feel the specs are sloppy. IMO I think Taurus also err's on the short side when it comes to their firing pins. My S&W pins extend further out than the Taurus pins and will shoot anything. Of course they are mounted on the hammer. I've actually shattered snap caps in them!
Upgrade the hammer spring, and in all likelyhood your problems will go away.
I was going to add that. Yeah, Taurus is sometimes light on the spring tension. It's quite easy to install a stiffer spring which you can get probably from brownells or maybe Wolff Springs.
 

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The wolf springs are good but are made to lighten the action or bring it back to original.  The S&W j frame spring is heavy duty (12lb?) and will work just fine.  You can get them from  http://www.e-gunparts.com/ 

I was just looking at the wolff spring kit on brownells site. The heavy mainspring is a 11.lb.
That would be a good place to start.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
That's great, thanks for all the info guys. For what it's worth, I took the Taurus to the range yesterday for a quickie, 50 rounds of factory ammo, 25 in DA and 25 in SA, and had the same light strike results. About 1 in 10 rounds were light. However all rounds did fire and go exactly where I wanted them to. Well, expect for the one that took a sharp turn as soon as it left the barrell and went 10" high and 8" right! ;)

JLaw
 

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expect for the one that took a sharp turn as soon as it left the barrell and went 10" high and 8" right!
That one must've been a dum dum :p
 
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