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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys I just fired my new M66 .357 4in for the first time today. I put about 100 rounds through it of Independence 130gr FMJ .38 special, Remington Golden Saber .38 special +P JHP, Fiocchi .357 fmj and Hornaday .357 critical defense 125gr. JHP.

I started experiencing misfires within my first 20rds. I noticed that the next round would not chamber, and that it was difficult to unlock and open the cylinder. On inspection, I found bits of bullet debris on the 9 o'clock portion of the barrel where it meets the cylinder. I managed to work out the debris with my trusty Gerber, but I continued to experience the same problem several times... it became very discouraging.

I noticed that the only ammo that didn't seem to have this problem was the .357 Fiocchi FMJ. The worst ammo I used was the .38 Remington Golden Saber.

I asked the one of the guys I trust at the gun shop what could have caused this problem, and he ruled out cylinder timing through some visual/feel method. He noticed that the cylinder seemed to have a good bit of rotational play (side to side) while the cylinder was seated in the crane. He suggested that I send it back to Taurus so that they could "tighten it up."

I checked a few threads on this subject when I got home; but it would seem that this is not a big issue as long as the cylinder holds tight while the hammer is in the fully cocked position. And yes, this is the case... the cylinder is nice and tight when the hammer is cocked back.

Also, if it makes any difference the primers have all been struck in the dead center. Even my Ruger Super Redhawk doesn't strike the primers quiet as centered as the Taurus.

I have to say, she is a beautiful gun to look at, and she shoots about as smooth as a 68' Buick Riviera rides (when it isn't jamming up).

I hope someone can provide me with some input on this matter. I will also post this in the Revolver section. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Hey guys I just fired my new M66 .357 4in for the first time today. I put about 100 rounds through it of Independence 130gr FMJ .38 special, Remington Golden Saber .38 special +P JHP, Fiocchi .357 fmj and Hornaday .357 critical defense 125gr. JHP.

I started experiencing misfires within my first 20rds. I noticed that the next round would not chamber, and that it was difficult to unlock and open the cylinder. On inspection, I found bits of bullet debris on the 9 o'clock portion of the barrel where it meets the cylinder. I managed to work out the debris with my trusty Gerber, but I continued to experience the same problem several times... it became very discouraging.

I noticed that the only ammo that didn't seem to have this problem was the .357 Fiocchi FMJ. The worst ammo I used was the .38 Remington Golden Saber.

I asked the one of the guys I trust at the gun shop what could have caused this problem, and he ruled out cylinder timing through some visual/feel method. He noticed that the cylinder seemed to have a good bit of rotational play (side to side) while the cylinder was seated in the crane. He suggested that I send it back to Taurus so that they could "tighten it up."

I checked a few threads on this subject when I got home; but it would seem that this is not a big issue as long as the cylinder holds tight while the hammer is in the fully cocked position. And yes, this is the case... the cylinder is nice and tight when the hammer is cocked back.

Also, if it makes any difference the primers have all been struck in the dead center. Even my Ruger Super Redhawk doesn't strike the primers quiet as centered as the Taurus.

I have to say, she is a beautiful gun to look at, and she shoots about as smooth as a 68' Buick Riviera rides (when it isn't jamming up).

I hope someone can provide me with some input on this matter. I've also posted this in the smithing section. Thanks!
 

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Not sure what your friend did to check it, but if you have bullet debris between the cyinder and forcing cone, I don't see where it would be coming from except the cylinder not being aligned with the barrel when the cartridge fires (out of time). My guess is that the smooth nose of an FMJ would have the best chance to make it into the barrel with some misalgnment, while a HP edge might catch and leave debris. Then the cylinder drags and is so out of time that the firing pin misses the next primer (or the cylinder doesn't even move and the pin strikes the same cartridge again), causing the apparent misfire (unless you are seeing a firing pin mark on the cartridge that was the dud).

I had a problem with my Model 65 where the hand got gummed up so the trigger and hammer would cycle without moving the cylinder, resulting in an apparent misfire, but in reality it was striking an already fired cartridge. Try dry firing many times and watching to see if the cylinder moves and locks correctly each and every time. Then try taking off the side plate, blast the insides with cleaner, and use no more than a couple of drops of oil when reassembling and test again.

Your root problem may be the gun has a mechanical timing problem (trip to Taurus) or it is dirty and not advancing/locking properly (a cleaning should clear up the problems). I'm voting on cleaning solving your issue.

I love both my 65 and 66, and I hope you solve your problem quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Skinnedknuckles. Thank you. I'll do exactly as you say and report back. I have read a lot of chatter online about Taurus revolvers being pretty dirty when shipped. thanks.
 

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I would check to see if the cylinders chambers have sharp edges.I have seen quite a few that have the edge rounded or broke to smooth it out. not sure of the proper terminology .
 

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I would say that if it is not performing perfectly that you look for the obvious things. If you cant find anything. take pictures of the fouling and debris and contact Taurus CS. For the Life of me I would never allow a firearm of mine to fire " really well when it's not jamming up". My M66 is almost 28 years old now and the only issue I ever had with it was my wrists got sore after a couple of boxes of 357 +p rounds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I will see if i can take down the side plates and give it a good inspecton and cleaning. I'll post pictures if possible. Thanks for all your help!:D
 

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Skinnedknuckles. Thank you. I'll do exactly as you say and report back. I have read a lot of chatter online about Taurus revolvers being pretty dirty when shipped. thanks.
They arent really "dirty", it's just that Taurus uses a fairly thick grease to protect the guns during shipment and storage. Even Gun Scrubber needs some help to get it all out. The grease can cause some parts to stick because the springs weren't designed for that extra drag. And I can't blame Taurus for trouble with my Model 65 since it was built in 1988 ;)

Also there is a sticky on this forum with a good pictorial for disassembling a Taurus revolver. The Model 66 isn't exactly as shown but it is close enough to keep you out of trouble. I took some digital pictures when I disassembled mine for future reference.
 

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If it is "shaving" pieces of the bullet, it is a timing issue. I sent a blue 605 357 5 shot to Miami with this same issue.After it fired, a "shaving" of lead would lodge between the cylinder and the barrel and lock it up. When you send it, send the fired casing and the pieces you recover( in a zip loc bag) along with a descripton on the online work order that you fill out print & send with the gun. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If it is "shaving" pieces of the bullet, it is a timing issue. I sent a blue 605 357 5 shot to Miami with this same issue.After it fired, a "shaving" of lead would lodge between the cylinder and the barrel and lock it up. When you send it, send the fired casing and the pieces you recover( in a zip loc bag) along with a descripton on the online work order that you fill out print & send with the gun. Good luck.
Mr. Arff. Thanks for the post. I'm glad to hear that someone else has a similar experience that I can learn from. How did things work out with that 605?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
They arent really "dirty", it's just that Taurus uses a fairly thick grease to protect the guns during shipment and storage. Even Gun Scrubber needs some help to get it all out. The grease can cause some parts to stick because the springs weren't designed for that extra drag. And I can't blame Taurus for trouble with my Model 65 since it was built in 1988 ;)

Also there is a sticky on this forum with a good pictorial for disassembling a Taurus revolver. The Model 66 isn't exactly as shown but it is close enough to keep you out of trouble. I took some digital pictures when I disassembled mine for future reference.]

SkinnedKnuckles. I plan on using that sticky tomorrow for disassembly. BTW, concerning your avatar, German Shepard are really awesome animals!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok, so I took the revolver apart according to the Sticky at the top of the forum. I found a few small pieces of metallic debris and cleaned it out. Some of the edges on the side cover seemed to be only partially finished. I used a dremmal to clean up some of the rough edges that should have been removed at the factory. It also looked like the side plate had been gouged up on one side, so I cleaned that up too. I removed all the components and soaked each one for a minute in Hoppes #9. The grease they used to ship the gun was pretty thick... which was already stated by a member above. I did not completely disassemble the cylinder because I didn't feel like I had a suitable support tool. But, I did remove the cylinder Assembly and cleaned it thoroughly After all the components were clean and dry, I oiled it all back up and reassembled. The trigger mechanism seemed to improve a good bit. All of the overall actions of the firearm felt quiet smooth and crisp. I took it down to my makeshift range and fired a few different rounds through it. The Hornaday Critical defense did a bit better, but 1-2 rounds would still shave apart on the 9'o clock portion of the barrel and cause the cylinder to jam up. I think the cleaning helped, but it wasn't a fix. I am glad to say that all FMJ rounds fired flawlessly this time. So, this is my position....

I phoned Taurus and they sent me the prepaid packaging label to send it back. She told me that it would take 4-6 weeks to get it back. I told the lady that I didn't feel good about the situation because I have heard some stories about a 6 month wait. She said she couldn't tell me a solid time-frame, but it would be no longer than 8 weeks at the most. I am ok with 8 weeks, but not feeling good about it.

next option...

I know a man here in town who has an outstanding reputation as a Gunsmith. He is a very dear freind of a good friend, and an aquaintance of mine. I trust the guy. I am wondering if I should let him take a look at it first. I'd hate to lose the gun for 2 months or longer when I could pay a reputable guy a few bucks for a days wait...

Any thoughts on this? The guys name is Bill Snow (columbus, ga). Just in case the name rings a bell to any of you gunsmithers.

P.S. I enjoyed tearing the gun down. That sort of activity always seems to seal the bond between man and machine!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok. I'll say the problem is resolved as of right now. I was ready to send it back, but I just couldn't bring myself to do it. I disassembled the ejector rod and closely examined the mating surface on the star (i don't know the technical term). I really thought it looked pretty rough, so I took a pick and removed a few tiny slivers of debris that must have been left over from the machining process. I compared its appearance to my Ruger revolver, and was amazed at the difference of the machining quality. I took it back to the firing range and went through about 70 rounds of Remmington UMC 125gr 38 +P JHP. I didn't have a single problem (except for one shot where I failed to allow the trigger to return during double action rapid fire). Granted, this was a different ammo, but it was still a JHP. I also fired a few left over FMJ rounds that had given me problems in the past, and no issue there as well.

I am going with the theory that metallic debris in the star was preventing the round to seat in the centered position long enough to cause a slightly off-set ignition of 1 or 2 rounds. I HOPE. Awesome firearm!
 

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Ok. I'll say the problem is resolved as of right now. I was ready to send it back, but I just couldn't bring myself to do it.
I am going with the theory that metallic debris in the star was preventing the round to seat in the centered position long enough to cause a slightly off-set ignition of 1 or 2 rounds. I HOPE. Awesome firearm!
Great news! Sounds like you found the problem, because if the hand can't engage the star correctly, the timing will suffer (won't get the cylinder around to lock up properly).

That said, if it doesn't stay fixed don't hesitate to send it back. My experience with a problem OSS in 2011 made be a believer in the quality of Taurus Customer Service (except I had a lemon they never could fix and they replaced it). They said 4-6 weeks, but twice I had it back before I got the letter saying they had received it, and I don't believe it was because they are fluffing the repair. I heard the 6 months horror stories as a new owner, but Taurus does seemed to have changed their attitude towards customer service.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I feel good about it. I should probably try a few different other types of ammo to be sure. But I feel real happy about it right now. I was even able to sight it in. I'm no great shooter, but I put about 7 rounds through an apple size target at 7 yards, then 7 through a basketball size target at 15. For me, that is good. For you guys... I'm sure most of ya'll can do a little better lol.
 
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