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Lubrication wars! | Gun Nuts

Lubrication wars! by Caleb • June 14, 2013 Everyone is selling firearms lube these days. And the marketing speak that goes with some of these “new” products is pretty ridiculous. Seriously, if I have to read one more press release about how AmphibianGlide is going to wick into the pores of my 1911 and provide miraculous lubrication under any circumstances, I’m going to shoot someone.





The biggest problem I have with all these products is that they don’t do anything that I can’t do with the three products in the photo above. From left to right: 5W-30 engine oil for lubrication, non-chlorinated brake cleaner for cleaning, and white lithium grease for well, grease. The lithium grease and 5W-30 will last for 3 years or so, and have a combined cost of less than $10. Meanwhile, four ounces of Miracle Grease will cost you anywhere between 20 and 40 bucks. That’s crazy talk. Think about that cost spread out over the course of three or four years. If you shoot say, 5,000-10,000 rounds a year through your competition gun, you’ll go through an entire one of those little lube bottles in a year. That’s 20 bucks. You’ll go through it quicker if you shoot rifle and pistol. So you’re looking at maybe $40 a year, which isn’t a lot of money in the grand scheme but is also a couple more boxes of ammo to train with.


I wouldn’t have a problem with paying an increased price for weapons lubricants if they actually offered performance advantages over motor oil and lithium grease. I will say that for gun cleaning, don’t use brake cleaner on your polymer guns unless you want to mess them up; but for metal guns it’s generally good to go. But back to the main point, which is why bother? The only reason I can think to use a product specifically designed for guns is because it comes in a handy dispenser tube, and with motor oil you have to buy some plastic syringes to apply it neatly. Or you could class it up and buy an aluminum precision oiler
, and oil your guns like a sir.


I’m not trying to bash gun lubes, because there are plenty of good ones on the market. I’ve used Gun Butter, Wilson Combat Lube, 10-8 Performance Lube, and even FrogLube. They all work just fine, but they don’t work any better than products designed to work inside a V8 at 4000 RPM.

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Read the comments on the original link:


June 14, 2013 at 09:21


I agree, Caleb. I have been using the same quart of Mobil 1 and High pressure Grease for zerks (cheap stuff from Walmart) for the past 5 years or so on everything….. Open guns, carry guns, ARs, Benellis, SMGs,,,,, all without lube related problems. The two cost about $8 total back then and I have used about 20% of the Mobil 1 and less than 10% of the grease.
 

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When this post showed up right below The eye candy post i had to lsee what it was

jhp
 

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I personally like the white lithium grease as well. It stays where I put it and never wears out before I clean and reapply.
 

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When this post showed up right below The eye candy post i had to lsee what it was

jhp

I would say we should merge the thread but I don't think that would end well...
 

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I can't argue regarding lubrication as I've used Mobil 1 for quite some time and BreakFree CLP for wipe down/cleaning along w/#9 on bore. However, I have started using Frog Lube and there is absolutely no question that when it comes to simplifying cleaning a FL treated gun after a trip to the range, FL wins hands down over anything I've used. I haven't used every product on the market so not bashing anyone or product. FL lubrication qualities are still an ongoing question with me (I still have guns untreated and using normal methods), but have seen no undue wear problems at this point.

My eye opening moment was with my new Tisas Sport w/ported barrel/slide. I used traditional clean and lube prep before first trip to range. After range, it took forever to clean the barrel OD and slide using GunScrubber, #9 and finally #0000 steel wool to remove GSR and get back to bare metal - same for swabbing bore umpteen dozen times. I then treated the Sport with FrogLube 2x. Next trip to range, same number of rounds - and all it took to clean OD of barrel and inside slide was a wipe down with an untreated micro-fiber cloth. As for the bore, I ran a patch thru before heading to range and after the FL treatment from a few weeks earlier (in prep for range trip) and it came out filthy - after I thought I had cleaned super clean before storing. The cleaning of the bore after FL treatment was similar to that experienced with barrel OD and Slide ID - quick, simple and not much more than a wipe down and much fewer patches.

At this point I have no doubt that regardless of what I use to care for my guns, traditional or FL, it will get the job done and some one will inherit some well taken care of weapons. There is NO bad or good or better, than just taking care of what you have with what you have. Any quality product will do - just do it!!

But, I'm sold on FrogLube, and I'm worse than any Missourian when it comes to "show me or prove it" !! LOL
 

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I'd like to hear some suggestions related to this topic for the "average" shooter - let's say someone who shoots less than 2,000 rounds a year. Does it really matter what kind of products are used as long as the guns are maintained? For example, I use Hoppes #9 and Remington Oil. I've been thinking about going to/adding a modern lubricant/grease but I don't really know if I would see any benefit from doing this (I shoot mainly semi-automatics)...any opinions?


An article by Grant Cunningham on lubricants

GrantCunningham.com - Library

 
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I'd like to hear some suggestions related to this topic for the "average" shooter - let's say someone who shoots less than 2,000 rounds a year. Does it really matter what kind of products are used as long as the guns are maintained? For example, I use Hoppes #9 and Remington Oil. I've been thinking about going to/adding a modern lubricant/grease but I don't really know if I would see any benefit from doing this (I shoot mainly semi-automatics)...any opinions?




An article by Grant Cunningham on lubricants

GrantCunningham.com - Library

Mine is just one opinion out of many but I've used Hoppe's #9 to clean and Hoppe's oil to lightly lubricate since 1969 and see no reason to change.

What's the saying? "If it ain't broke..............".
 

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I've only used theses products in the automotive field so I don't know how they perform on firearms. Conventional engine oil, under extreme pressure and heat will separate from the paraffin wax base and solidify, kinda like a melted crayon, one of the reasons why oil changes are due every 3,000 miles. I've used white lithium grease to lubricate seat tracks and power windows, I've seen it gum up and cake/flake after several months with limited environmental exposure but everyday use. Brake cleaner will discolor finishes, melt some plastics/polymers and leave a white haze on bare metal, most likely due to the propellants used, works well on grease stains on light colored carpets though. If someone was inclined to use engine oil, a fully synthetic oil without the organic compounds that oxidize or degrade might offer better protection.
Mobile 1 for my baby on wheels, Ballistol for the one on my hip :cool:
 
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Why in the world do any of you express intolerance on this subject.
After reading the OP I am totally unwilling to share my opinion.
Now, that may make some of you happy, but the intolerance expressed comes from a closed mind that just will not learn.
Be happy with the opinion you already have.
 

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Why in the world do any of you express intolerance on this subject.
After reading the OP I am totally unwilling to share my opinion.
Now, that may make some of you happy, but the intolerance expressed comes from a closed mind that just will not learn.
Be happy with the opinion you already have.
MadKaw, did you post this to the right forum? If you did, I missed what you are referring to about intolerance.
 

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Seriously, if I have to read one more press release about how AmphibianGlide is going to wick into the pores of my 1911 and provide miraculous lubrication under any circumstances, I’m going to shoot someone.
MadKaw, did you post this to the right forum? If you did, I missed what you are referring to about intolerance.
Not interested in getting shot.
 

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Not interested in getting shot.
Guys... better back slowly away. I noticed MadKaw has changed his avatar again, so it might not be a good time to poke him with a stick! :cool:

Seriously, put me down as a FrogLube convert too.
 

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A good quality CLP does it for me.
 

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Ahh but I bet there is more than one way to clean and lube a gun. As for me, I use Hoppes #9, Rem Oil and Rem Dri-lube but that's me. I never use real corrosive ammo and I shoot maybe 100-300 rounds per week. If I shoot 150 rounds of Remington or Federal or Winchester factory loaded 22's, I can probably use anything to clean my gun.
 

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Guys... better back slowly away. I noticed MadKaw has changed his avatar again, so it might not be a good time to poke him with a stick! :cool:

Seriously, put me down as a FrogLube convert too.
One of these days I'll pick one and stick with it...




Nah. Ain't gonna happen.
(G-96)
 
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One of these days I'll pick one and stick with it...




Nah. Ain't gonna happen.
(G-96)
I vote for that one!

Prior G-96 user, myself. Still like it.
 

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I've used Hoppe's for decades. As a cleaner, it works fine. I use Hoppe's Gun Oil, and Rig Stainless Steel Grease almost exclusively on everything but my Garands. On the Garands, I use Lubriplate, as that was what it was created for.

Many years ago, a Marine Gunnery Sergeant advised me to oil moving surfaces, but to put a dab of grease on anything shiny in the moving parts. Never have had any trouble when following his advice. To include Class 3 equipment.
 
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