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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I never knew there was a issue with the locking blocks on the PT92's until I read up top. Did Taurus ever redesign their's like Beretta did? Anyone know much about the locking block issue?
 

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locking blocks do break on the 92 design, it's just the weak point..

with that said it does'nt happen that often, like you noted beretta redesigned their locking blocks a few times.. the current 3rd gen blocks are rated some where around 30-35k round iirc.

im not sure what if anything taurus has done to improve their blocks.. from the outside there appears to be no change from the original design.. at least nothing like the beretta blocks have changed.

if nothing has been improved as i suspect you can expect 5-10k rounds im sure others will exceed that while others i've heard breaking after just 1k.

the good news is even though it's a naturally wearing part taurus should replace it for free.. swapping locking blocks is pretty effortless.. usually can be just wiggled out worse case scenario you have to remove a retainer pin.

beretta locking blocks are suppose to be compatible.. with that said i have not confirmed that personally, however you might have to also change your locking block plunger as the 3rd gen blocks required a plunger change..

although again i've heard rumors of people keeping the old plungers in.

you can get the locking blocks from beretta as a kit with block,plunger, and retainer pin.

i believe the kit runs around 50 bucks.
 

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I have well over 35K rounds through my PT92, a pre-decocker model. I replace the recoil spring every 8k rounds, b ut the locking block doesn't appear to have any imminent failures. They normally give you warning by showing rounding, chipping, or galling. The Beretta improved locking blocks, as mentioned, work in the Taurus as a drop in.

I have also put about 2K through my PT101, a .40 S&W, and have seen no abnormal wear on the locking block. The system is the same in either caliber, but the .40 S&W operates with a heavier bullet, and higher pressures than standard 9x19 rounds. ;D
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Off the subject, do you know how to disassemble the magazines? I would think press the tab on the bottom in, but it does not want to budge.
 

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yup just press the little tap on the bottom of the mag in and slide the plate forward..

my factory mags are a real pita to take apart.. extremely tight..

i have to use a screw driver on one of them. not to press the tab in but to move the base plate.

you can use the nose of a FMJ to press the tab in or a screw driver, then slide the base plate forward.

watch for the mag spring which can fly out with considerable force if not easied out with the thumb or a finger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I got them, they were a bear to take apart and put back together. Very tight, not like my Glock mags.
 

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ya most mags are'nt like that, my beretta 92, cougar, and aftermarket mags are much easier to take apart.

i thought i just got a pair of very tight factory mags but it seems the taurus factory mags must all be tight like that.

you can bend the little wings on the base plate if you want to loosen it up, as long as the tab is in teh hole the base plate wont move.. i dunno why they decided to make them that tight it's not required.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I had to use a vice to get one back together. If I keep the Taurus, MecGars are on the way.
 

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mec-gars are nice mags, they got 17rnd nickel plated mags which look so nice i wanted to buy'em bad..

but im gonna end up getting some mec-gar 18rnd beretta mags and file out the hole so they'll fit my taurus

oddly they're the same mags except the mag catch slot but mec-gar does'nt sell 18's for the taurus :(
 
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