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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am looking for a gun safe/cabinet. I found Liberty made by Heritage Safe Company. Made in the USA!
Does anyone have any knowledge to impart to me??
Thanks
 

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Sorry no help here..:(
 

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The security of a gun safe is pretty much dependent on what gauge is the steel, how heavy is the lockup system, and how many tools that you leave laying around the garage!
Like all things with locks they basically keep honest people out or very lazy criminals.
IF someone wants in they will get in if given enough time.
 

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A good safe backed by a home alarm that will get someone there before anyone has time to get in to the safe is all you need.

There was a story a while back of a guy that had a nice gun collection kept in safes that went on vacation.

Burglars got in and had plenty of time to use tools to cut in to the safes. They also got in to his wine/booze collection while working on the safe.

Point is, he was gone long enough and had told the wrong people he was going away that they had time to come in and rob him blind.

In other words, a safe is only part of your total security plan but, get the heaviest one you can afford.

Oh, and make sure it is bolted down or even concreted in. You would be surprised how often burglars will just pick the whole thing up and take it away to break in to at their leisure.
 

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Watch some youtubes on how safes are made.
A steel box lined with 2 layers of fire rated drywall are the norm.
Lock type and bolt size and number vary.

You have to decide just how serious you are and how deep your pockets are.
Do you really think thieves are likely to cart your safe off site?

One thing is mandatory if you want a manual lock.
Go to your local sporting store with safes.
Ask them if you can try opening the lock with the default codes.
It's not like the gym class locks of high school.
Example:
5 turns to the right, stop on the number.
4 turns to the left, stop on the number.
3 turns to the right stop on the number.
2 turns to the left, stop on the number.
I gave up after the 4th time.
I went electronic. But I added my own safety feature in case the board fails.

I can go on if needed.
 

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If you're looking at a Liberty like they're selling in our local Scheels they're a nice unit. Been looking at them myself. Contents are fire safe up to some ungodly temperature, heavy enough they're not going to be moved by anything less than a forklift and thick enough it's not going to be an easy in. I think most of 'em now also have the glass relocker in 'em.

Expensive as heck, but, less than some of the other, lesser quality, safes I've seen out there.
 

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My attitude toward a safe is get what you can afford. For the most part if you bolt it down it will stop the quick thief that wants in and out. For the determined thief that has the time they most likely will get in your safe.

As someone said an Alarm and Safe combo is the way to go.
 
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I don't even have a real "safe". What I have are two locking gun cabinets. Now that the wife is about to pop any day in the next few weeks, she stays home.

But as pointed out, it depends on how much time somebody has to try to get in.
Used to be that my home was empty ( aside from dogs) for up to 8 , 8 1/2 hours a day.

Somebody who knows what they are doing will clean that safe out in less time that that once they figure out the dogs will be their best friend if you bring them a treat.

I could spend $800 on a safe and get no better results i security than I would with my $200 and my $130 gun cabinets.


They offer minimal fire protection, probably almost no water protection, and since I am set up for self defense...at least 3 of my guns are not even in the safe to begin with.
 

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We bought a Champion under a different label. I was looking for bolts all the way around and heavy gauge steel and found one. It is 8 gauge steel with a manual dial lock. It has double palusol seals and is insulated to withstand 1750 degrees for 90 minutes minimum. It was delivered in a lift gate truck and the delivery guys used a pallet jack to move it to where I wanted and bolted it to the floor. Delivered it cost me $1900 on sale (20% off if bought at the gun show). That was one check I was happy to write!
 

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I watched a tape that's shown to security and LEO about how safe a safe really is! If they are pros then forget it most can get into the best in about 10 to 20 minutes. And I'm talking about the $3000 safes. Use alarms and good nosy neighbors. Do not tell folks that you're leaving. Hire a house sitter! JMO
 

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I don't even have a real "safe". What I have are two locking gun cabinets. Now that the wife is about to pop any day in the next few weeks, she stays home.

But as pointed out, it depends on how much time somebody has to try to get in.
Used to be that my home was empty ( aside from dogs) for up to 8 , 8 1/2 hours a day.

Somebody who knows what they are doing will clean that safe out in less time that that once they figure out the dogs will be their best friend if you bring them a treat.

I could spend $800 on a safe and get no better results i security than I would with my $200 and my $130 gun cabinets.


They offer minimal fire protection, probably almost no water protection, and since I am set up for self defense...at least 3 of my guns are not even in the safe to begin with.
I am of a similar thinking. realistically they are going to get it if they want it. Money better spent on guns to fill it!! ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thank you all for the responses. I think I am going with the heavy duty Fortress 10 rifle cabinet. It's heaver gauge then Stackon, Bolt it down good and never tell when I am leaving( except my neighbor as he has more guns than I do and he is always home ) .
 

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A good safe backed by a home alarm that will get someone there before anyone has time to get in to the safe is all you need.

There was a story a while back of a guy that had a nice gun collection kept in safes that went on vacation.

Burglars got in and had plenty of time to use tools to cut in to the safes. They also got in to his wine/booze collection while working on the safe.

Point is, he was gone long enough and had told the wrong people he was going away that they had time to come in and rob him blind.

In other words, a safe is only part of your total security plan but, get the heaviest one you can afford.

Oh, and make sure it is bolted down or even concreted in. You would be surprised how often burglars will just pick the whole thing up and take it away to break in to at their leisure.
YES indeed! Different layers of protection plays a key roll in keeping things safe. You'll be surprised at how many people don't lock doors, turn alarms on or light dark places around their homes because they "Think" they live in a safe area. Criminals love that because it's easy pickens!
 

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The best thing to do is to buy 2 big safes. Then bolt them together internally. Now, any potential thief cannot steal the safes because they cannot lift them by cart and cannot get them thru the door. You can use 1 safe for your guns and the other for all of your personal belongings (such as jewelries and tools). Buy the best that is difficult to break open. Last but not least, attach an alarm system to the doors of the safes. May sound like a lot of overkill, but it depends on you.
 

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Face it even a small oxy/acetylene torch will cut through the side of any consumer safe.
Or a sawz-all with the right blade once a drill hole is made, or even the ever popular circular saw with the correct blade.
so again how much crap do you have sitting about in your garage?
placement can help because a smart criminal will go through the side of a safe and just by-pass the locking bolts, so placing the safe in a small closet where one can not get a place to use a large pry bar, etc on the door helps a lot, of course anchoring it to the floor joist and the back to wall studs makes it virtually impossible to move it anywhere.
 

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So many educational video reviews out there! If they can't tip it over it makes breaking into it more difficult.
 

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