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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
:guns:hello my name is Justin Prim im new to this forum and owning a gun. for my first i decided to go with the PT111 9mm :guns:

:confused:I decided to keep 12+1 when at home but changed my mind and when i tried ejecting the live round it would not eject i ended up having to put the front of the slid in my counter top and push down (to slide the slide open) and then i took the guns key to pop the bullet out. what i am wondering is if this is normal for the pt111. i shot it before this hapend cleaned it then had to do this then shot it the day after and it ejects perfectly fine when shooting :confused:


the other question i had was about aiming but i found a little bit on this site already about aiming it so i will try that when i go to the range next time
so far the gun has been grate only one FTD when the gf was shooting. other then that its been a great gun and i cant wait till I can actualy hit the target at 15 yards


thanks for such a good site.
 

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Welcome to the forum from Alabama-
I have the PT-111 for nearly 4 years now.
The live round should eject easily by pulling the slide back. I always removed the round in the chamber when I took the gun off each day, and re-chambered when I left home. Never had an issue with that.
FTD?? What do you mean by that?
For aiming you may get a different answer from several people. Put the front white dot over the rear white dot, with top of front post at same hight as top of rear sight. Imagine the two white dots to be the inside circles of a figure 8.
If you are not hitting the target at 15 yards, move up to 7 yards. This gun is made for close up. I can hit targets at 25 yards, but very poor groups. If you are not hitting where you aim- most probably you are pulling the gun off aim point by time the trigger breaks. The 111 has a long spongy trigger. It takes a couple hundred rounds for it to limber a bit, and for you to get used to it.
You can always shoot from bench rest up close to verify they gun shoots where it is pointed. If you bench rest it, and it still shoots off then something is wrong with the gun. but more than likely you are pulling the muzzle down with your finger by the time it fires.
 

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Welcome from TX!

Yep, you can remove the round in the chamber easily by removing the mag then pulling the slide back.
 

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Why did you have to use the counter to keep the slide open? There is a slide lock mechanism (middle button type piece on the left side). Pull slide all the way back and flip up. With a live round in the chamber what you did was EXTREMELY dangerous. Please take some time to familiarize yourself with your weapon and all of its functions before carrying live ammo. Snap caps will help with your trigger pull and accuracy as well as making it safe for you to explore the functions of the gun.

If I am misunderstanding your procedure, I am sorry for the safety lecture. Please disregard and don't take offense.

Josh
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
when i have the live round in the chamber and pull back on the slide it does not go back far enough for the round to discharge so i used the counter as leverage to hold the slide open. when there is no bullet in the chamber it will go back so that i can lock the slide open.

FTD= failer TO Discharge
 

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You can use the slide stop to keep the slide open then remove the live round from the chamber.

I think the FTFire was because your gf was limp-wristing the pistol. Very often the 2nd strike would take care of it.
 

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If the ejector (the little flat piece of metal that sticks up from the frame near the rear and off to the left a bit) is flat on the end it can be a bit too long for a fully assembled cartridge to clear the ejection port. Angling the ejector back about 5-10 degrees should allow enough clearance for a complete cartridge to eject reliably. And to me it's important that you can do this simple task with a semi auto pistol - because it's exactly the same thing you have to do if you encounter a dud. If Murphy shows up when you're in need of your pistol, and you hit a dud, you don't want to be dropping magazines and fiddling when you should be shooting.

It's not a big deal to fix, but being new to firearms I wouldn't recommend you taking a file to the gun. Take it to a gunsmith or have Taurus do it for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If the ejector (the little flat piece of metal that sticks up from the frame near the rear and off to the left a bit) is flat on the end it can be a bit too long for a fully assembled cartridge to clear the ejection port. Angling the ejector back about 5-10 degrees should allow enough clearance for a complete cartridge to eject reliably. And to me it's important that you can do this simple task with a semi auto pistol - because it's exactly the same thing you have to do if you encounter a dud. If Murphy shows up when you're in need of your pistol, and you hit a dud, you don't want to be dropping magazines and fiddling when you should be shooting.

It's not a big deal to fix, but being new to firearms I wouldn't recommend you taking a file to the gun. Take it to a gunsmith or have Taurus do it for you.
It seams like that is the issue I looked at it last night again and saw what you where talking about and it looks to me any way that that is the issue so I will have to take it back to scheels (they have a gunsmith and that's where i bought it from) and see if they will fix it or if I will have to pay a local gunsmith to do it. thanks for the info by the way :)

I am also wondering if the clip is so-posed to wiggle a little when fully inserted and locked in the handle?
 

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Welcome!! From the HUGE state of Rhode Island... And good luck on the pt111. I hear they are a great gun...
 

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It seams like that is the issue I looked at it last night again and saw what you where talking about and it looks to me any way that that is the issue so I will have to take it back to scheels (they have a gunsmith and that's where i bought it from) and see if they will fix it or if I will have to pay a local gunsmith to do it. thanks for the info by the way :)

I am also wondering if the clip is so-posed to wiggle a little when fully inserted and locked in the handle?
Don't worry about the mags wiggling a bit - they need to have a little 'wiggle' to drop free when you hit the mag release. Shouldn't affect the function of the gun.

On the ejector, it is just a filing job. Depending on how confident you are in your filing skills, you might be able do it yourself. Basically you want to leave the ejector long on the bottom, and just angle the face back about 5-10 degrees. Here's a couple pics of what it should look like...



 

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Can you rack the slide back fine without a round in the chamber? Does the slide stop work correctly without any rounds being ejected? Any FTE when shooting the gun? Tough to diagnose without the gun in my hands. My 1st suggestion is to get the gun in the hands of someone familiar with semi auto's. Next would be to bring the gun to your local gun store. Most of these people should be familiar enough to help you through this problem. Keep us posted.
 

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Welcome aboard from Florida the "GunShine" state.

Lots of PT111 fans here including your's truly. It's not a great choice for a first gun being in the Formula-1 class of guns (high speed low drag). It demands a lot of attention to the shooting basics to function properly
 

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And just to add - if you do want to try your hand mark your cut with a pencil first. You can adjust your pencil line till you've got it where you want it, and then just cut to the line. The ejector is pretty hard metal, so it takes a good sharp file. And you have to be real careful not to let the file get up against the frame of the pistol. IIRC I used a dremel tool with a #935 aluminum oxide grinding wheel to do the lion's share of the cutting. Then I dressed the last little bit with a sharp needle file.

That little wheel is just the ticket for this job - if you've got a dremel. And EVERYONE should own a dremel tool. :D

 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Don't worry about the mags wiggling a bit - they need to have a little 'wiggle' to drop free when you hit the mag release. Shouldn't affect the function of the gun.

On the ejector, it is just a filing job. Depending on how confident you are in your filing skills, you might be able do it yourself. Basically you want to leave the ejector long on the bottom, and just angle the face back about 5-10 degrees. Here's a couple pics of what it should look like...


yea i am sure i could file it right but just got off the phone and they said to bring it in and trade it for another and i rather do that any way since the sights are so far off figure killing two birds with one stone hopefully any way. and ok thanks for letting me know about that its fine if the clip wiggles a little. also the manual says to take the clip apart every 200 rounds for a cleaning is this often really needed?:confused:
 

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also the manual says to take the clip apart every 200 rounds for a cleaning is this often really needed?
I clean mine more often than that, but all they really needs is wiped out good. I have a rag that I use like a bore snake on 'em. Don't use any solvents on your mags - the finish won't like it. Just wipe 'em out, or use soap and water and dry them good afterwards. Give them a little shot of Rem Dri Lube with Teflon and you should be good to go.

Unburned powder and other crud will accumulate in the mags, and if you let them get bad enough it can cause FTF's. You can clean a milpro mag in about two minutes, so there's really no excuse not to.
 

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yea i am sure i could file it right but just got off the phone and they said to bring it in and trade it for another and i rather do that any way since the sights are so far off figure killing two birds with one stone hopefully any way.
I hope they get you one that works right, but this particular issue seems to be pretty common and the odds are good that a new one may exhibit the same live round ejection problem. If it's shooting way high, a new pistol is likely to fix that one. If you do get another one with a 'flat' ejector, at least you'll know what your options are. I've got my fingers crossed for you that they'll get it right on the new gun.
 

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Excellent choice!! Pt 111 is great yes you can pull long shots.. I`ve hit steel at 150 yds takes time and practice...But it over all intended purpose is 21yds or less the action might be a little tight or the lock sticking up on you try the key then work the action..Mine drops the live round out the mag well with the mag remoned
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I hope they get you one that works right, but this particular issue seems to be pretty common and the odds are good that a new one may exhibit the same live round ejection problem. If it's shooting way high, a new pistol is likely to fix that one. If you do get another one with a 'flat' ejector, at least you'll know what your options are. I've got my fingers crossed for you that they'll get it right on the new gun.
so as long as the ejection pin is not flat it should work correct? if its that easy of a check ill look at it before i leave the store since i can now get it apart in about 40 sec flat lol love how easy it is ot get apart and back together and hope it fixis the aiming issue also sinc eid at least like to aim and hit the 2'x2' target at 15 yeards
 

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so as long as the ejection pin is not flat it should work correct? if its that easy of a check ill look at it before i leave the store since i can now get it apart in about 40 sec flat lol love how easy it is ot get apart and back together and hope it fixis the aiming issue also sinc eid at least like to aim and hit the 2'x2' target at 15 yeards
If the ejector is too long it will prevent a live round from ejecting. By putting that little angle on the ejector it allows the round to 'rock back' a bit, which gives the nose of the round a little more clearance and should allow live rounds to be ejected. It will also give you a little more 'lift' on ejected casings. The easiest way to check it is to take a snap cap along with you and try it before you leave the store.
 
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