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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My best friend is giving me 20 or 22 lb lead bar ok. He got it from his brother in law and he asked him for me where he got the lead he used to melt down to make the big bars. He works for a construction company and they had torn down an old hospital exray room and his boss gave him and some others the lead blocks that was used to make the lead walls. I dont know how much he got or anything all I do know is he said it was safe. Is this type lead good for casting? My best friend is using it in his 44 Mag and has no problems with fouling.​
 

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Dunno. But I know this - the guys at the local indoor range scrape out their trap regularly, and they melt that stuff down and reuse it. Pure lead probably isn't the best idea though - might want to put a little tin and maybe a little antimony in it.
 

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That's what I was getting at.

Pure lead while OK for muzzle loading balls is a tad too soft for most cast bullet applications.

90% - 10% lead to tin ratio is what I use for fairly hard cast bullets that don't lead my barrels unless I exceed the 1,000 FPS mark.

I've also used old wheel weights, window sash weights and lead from old gill nets in the mix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Moon dont know if its pure or not but my buddy makes 240 grn SWC for his Ruger Super Blackhawk 44 Mag and says he has no problems with leadding the barrel. Hey its free so I will get it and try it.
 

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I use a lot of lead sheeting from Xray Rooms. As far as I know it is pure lead so Moondawg is right that it needs to be hardened up a little. Tin will help but tin is mostly used to make the mixture fill out the mold better. I mix the PB with Wheel Weight which has enough antimony to harden the metal. For anything under 12 to 1300 fps I use 50% PB & 50% WW. Just make sure your bullets are sized right for your guns bore. Shooting undersized bullets is a bigger culprit for lead in a bore than too soft a metal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have reloaded off and on most of my adult life and this is my first experiance to smelt and cast my own, I allways bought my bullets for reloading but now I am disabled and retired and as we all know the cost of ammo is cheaper if we make our own and being on a fixed income not to mention I enjoy it, it is alot easier on my wallet. I have never in my life ever slugged a barrel but then again I never reloaded lead bullets allways SJ's or FMJ's so I never really had a problem with fouling. I am shooting some cast bullets right now that I got from a friend and he lubed them but I am getting just a little fouling. So how do I slug my 357 revolver with a 4in barrel? Also can it be checked with an inside mic?
 

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I have reloaded off and on most of my adult life and this is my first experiance to smelt and cast my own, I allways bought my bullets for reloading but now I am disabled and retired and as we all know the cost of ammo is cheaper if we make our own and being on a fixed income not to mention I enjoy it, it is alot easier on my wallet. I have never in my life ever slugged a barrel but then again I never reloaded lead bullets allways SJ's or FMJ's so I never really had a problem with fouling. I am shooting some cast bullets right now that I got from a friend and he lubed them but I am getting just a little fouling. So how do I slug my 357 revolver with a 4in barrel? Also can it be checked with an inside mic?
The problem with a revolver as I see it, is everything has to go in from the muzzle end. I'd be worried about damaging the crown by trying to slug it from the muzzle. And it's generally a good idea to keep everything 'moving' in the same direction that the bullet travels. If you damage the crown your going to more than negate any kind of benefit from slugging the barrel. JAT
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok JAT ty like my best friend said hey if I lead up I just scrub it out! I allways take my range bag when I go shoot and I keep everything in it that is needed even a cleanning kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Wow thats great. Thats what my friends brother in law has done. He worked for the construction company that did the work and he got a bunch of the lead.
 

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For the majority of .357's, just cast and size .359. Most lead shoots better when sized .001 - .002 over bore diameter. Pure lead will start leading because it's to soft and will skid over the rifling. Have someone pick up some clip on wheel weights from a garage or scrap yard and mix 50/50 and you should be good to go. I've shot a lot of cast out of a 4 inch .38 and just used Lee Liquid Alox and tumble lubed right out of the mold without sizing and have had great luck.
 

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I have reloaded off and on most of my adult life and this is my first experiance to smelt and cast my own, I allways bought my bullets for reloading but now I am disabled and retired and as we all know the cost of ammo is cheaper if we make our own and being on a fixed income not to mention I enjoy it, it is alot easier on my wallet. I have never in my life ever slugged a barrel but then again I never reloaded lead bullets allways SJ's or FMJ's so I never really had a problem with fouling. I am shooting some cast bullets right now that I got from a friend and he lubed them but I am getting just a little fouling. So how do I slug my 357 revolver with a 4in barrel? Also can it be checked with an inside mic?
I use bullet shaped fishing sinkers as a lead slug. I clean the barrel and coat it with a light lubricant then drive the over-sized slug into and through the barrel from the muzzle end with a plastic mallet and wooden dowel. That gives you the tightest bore diameter of the barrel. Now you have to check the cylinder chamber mouths because they will swage any bullet down to their size. Using 358 or 359 diameter bullets won't help you if your cylinder throats swage the bullet below your barrels bore diameter. Again, I use fishing sinkers to measure each chamber mouth. I have had to have a couple of cylinders opened up in order to get them to shoot cast bullets effectively. I also had to remove about a .018 restriction where the barrel was screwed into the frame of a couple of my revolvers.

All this sounds like a lot of trouble to shoot cast lead bullets but I won't own a revolver that won't shoot them because you never know when cast bullet will be all you can get.
 

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I use a lot of lead sheeting from Xray Rooms. As far as I know it is pure lead so Moondawg is right that it needs to be hardened up a little. Tin will help but tin is mostly used to make the mixture fill out the mold better. I mix the PB with Wheel Weight which has enough antimony to harden the metal. For anything under 12 to 1300 fps I use 50% PB & 50% WW. Just make sure your bullets are sized right for your guns bore. Shooting undersized bullets is a bigger culprit for lead in a bore than too soft a metal.
+1. THIS. Great post.
 

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I use bullet shaped fishing sinkers as a lead slug. I clean the barrel and coat it with a light lubricant then drive the over-sized slug into and through the barrel from the muzzle end with a plastic mallet and wooden dowel. That gives you the tightest bore diameter of the barrel. Now you have to check the cylinder chamber mouths because they will swage any bullet down to their size. Using 358 or 359 diameter bullets won't help you if your cylinder throats swage the bullet below your barrels bore diameter. Again, I use fishing sinkers to measure each chamber mouth. I have had to have a couple of cylinders opened up in order to get them to shoot cast bullets effectively. I also had to remove about a .018 restriction where the barrel was screwed into the frame of a couple of my revolvers.

All this sounds like a lot of trouble to shoot cast lead bullets but I won't own a revolver that won't shoot them because you never know when cast bullet will be all you can get.
This is a really informative post. Good job!
 
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