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Get rid of your G2 and buy a pistol on which you like the trigger.

See how easy that problem is to solve.
 

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Get rid of it?

Where's the challenge in that?
 

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Been there and have done that....For some odd reason I really do love the triggers in the PT Generation 1 trying to scoop up as many as I can.
 

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I wasn't fond of my G2 trigger and fixed it with a SS Striker guide (under 20 bucks) and a heat gun (free). It is one sweet shooter now.
 

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Me too
 

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Get rid of your G2 and buy a pistol on which you like the trigger.

See how easy that problem is to solve.
Dang, I'd never thought of that.
 

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I like the G2 trigger just fine. I do not understand complaints of the long take-up. There is no resistance in that take-up so the breaking point presents a solid stoppage of movement. It may be a bit far back for some tastes, but to me it is easily predictable and I can attain impressive (to me) accuracy for a 3"barreled compact-to-sub-compact poly pistol. The "catch" of the trigger safety, which it SHOULD probably be sent back to Taurus for, is easily fixed in a few different ways without the trip back. One should never resort to finger placement to settle for making it work. "Grittiness" is nearly always fixed by good cleaning and/or round count. Neither of my G2s had gritty triggers though. One had the "catchy" trigger from a trigger safety blade that had too thick of spring, which I ground down some for perfect function.

In short, I agree with the OP. If you don't like it, get rid of it and get another. I am, however, in full support of the aftermarket trigger if it makes the buyer happy. For myself, it's not needed.
 

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I wouldn't mind the long takeup except I have very long fingers and the trigger starts to break where I'm having to unnaturally squeeze my hand too tightly. I had the same problem with the 1911 platform, just too small. The new trigger improves this situation.
 

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I like the G2 trigger just fine. I do not understand complaints of the long take-up. There is no resistance in that take-up so the breaking point presents a solid stoppage of movement. It may be a bit far back for some tastes, but to me it is easily predictable and I can attain impressive (to me) accuracy for a 3"barreled compact-to-sub-compact poly pistol. The "catch" of the trigger safety, which it SHOULD probably be sent back to Taurus for, is easily fixed in a few different ways without the trip back. One should never resort to finger placement to settle for making it work. "Grittiness" is nearly always fixed by good cleaning and/or round count. Neither of my G2s had gritty triggers though. One had the "catchy" trigger from a trigger safety blade that had too thick of spring, which I ground down some for perfect function.

In short, I agree with the OP. If you don't like it, get rid of it and get another. I am, however, in full support of the aftermarket trigger if it makes the buyer happy. For myself, it's not needed.
I agree with all but the highlighted portion as proper technique is critical to good shooting. That generally involves placing the pad of the trigger finger on the face of the trigger, not the joint. The trigger blade safety on most striker fired pistols is designed to function correctly with the pad on it. Unfortunately Taurus does not have the tolerances of some other manufacturers such as Glock or S&W and it tends to react worse to this. When you use the joint of the finger it puts a side load on the pivot causing it to bind and twist. A metal blade or a pivot with tighter tolerances would make this less of an issue. Unfortunately things like this are the difference between a budget product and a similar premium brand.
 

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I agree with all but the highlighted portion as proper technique is critical to good shooting. That generally involves placing the pad of the trigger finger on the face of the trigger, not the joint. The trigger blade safety on most striker fired pistols is designed to function correctly with the pad on it. Unfortunately Taurus does not have the tolerances of some other manufacturers such as Glock or S&W and it tends to react worse to this. When you use the joint of the finger it puts a side load on the pivot causing it to bind and twist. A metal blade or a pivot with tighter tolerances would make this less of an issue. Unfortunately things like this are the difference between a budget product and a similar premium brand.
If you have bigger hands or longer fingers... you simply cannot use proper pad placement on the G2. I have learned to live with this fact and shoot my G2's quite well considering. Hickok45 had the same issues with it.

Not a deal killer, just something to be aware of.
 

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If you have bigger hands or longer fingers... you simply cannot use proper pad placement on the G2. I have learned to live with this fact and shoot my G2's quite well considering. Hickok45 had the same issues with it.

Not a deal killer, just something to be aware of.
Very true, not every hand will fit every gun. Manufacturers try to make for average sized hands and many people have to deal with this in a variety of ways. Sometimes this leads to issues.
 

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I DO use the pad of my finger, but it's too soft to overcome the added pressure needed to overcome the excessive spring pressure. Most people experiencing this issue have had to move finger placement out to the fingertip.
 

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So many people are trigger snobs, so I understand what OP is saying....his post just kinda came out of the blue though. If the trigger makes the gun go BANG, I make it work. Man, you want a trigger to complain about? Try the trigger, double action, on a P-64! I mean damn!
 

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So many people are trigger snobs, so I understand what OP is saying....his post just kinda came out of the blue though. If the trigger makes the gun go BANG, I make it work. Man, you want a trigger to complain about? Try the trigger, double action, on a P-64! I mean damn!
There's a couple of other threads going on about the G2 trigger, I think maybe he meant to reply to one of those. But we can work with whatever we get here on ta.net.
 
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