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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
But shortly I will get handles on it.

Maybe even a press

6EF990C3-7F1D-46E5-9F25-24FB00A93FE3.jpeg

48”W X 22” D

3/4” Red Oak furniture grade plywood sides

3/4” Birch furniture grade plywood back and bottom

3/4” Red Oak face frame

1/2” ash drawers, dovetailed front and back with 1/4” ply birch bottoms

KV Full Extension Soft Close Slides

updates as I progress
 

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you must have a nice room/area, where a piece of furniture like that, looks great.

i have a cellar (basement) where it is the typical type, and as such for me an industrial type of set up would be out of sight, out of mind.

otherwise, if i had a showcase room, i'd go good looking wood myself.

good luck, keep us posted.
 
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I would offer to store that furniture for you, but my wife and I are downsizing. Sorry. ;)
 

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Nice furniture, will need a good thick top to run a press I think. Or some support under the press. I used 2X4's to build all of my bench and it is strong enough to hold 1000 lbs, but still flex's a bit when I am rocking and rolling on press.
 

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You'll win best looking reloading bench hands down.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
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Nice furniture, will need a good thick top to run a press I think. Or some support under the press. I used 2X4's to build all of my bench and it is strong enough to hold 1000 lbs, but still flex's a bit when I am rocking and rolling on press.

would a butcher block top, be stronger (sticking with wood, over say steel ), than just planks? or one very large wooden top?
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Did you build that? Looks great!

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Yes Sir! Made every cut and glue joint.

Thanks everyone for the kind words.

Maybe just a small press for decapping? :D
 

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I hope you wrote down everything about it because in about 6 months, it's going to need a match. Make up a good label you can affix to the back then varnish over so in a hundred years, people can identify the maker.
 

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Yes Sir! Made every cut and glue joint.

Thanks everyone for the kind words.

Maybe just a small press for decapping? :D
Quite a nice job. Dovetail drawers are so elegant. I really can't tell by looking, but did you also do blind dovetails to the drawer faces, too.

Impressive!
 
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Discussion Starter #14
Quite a nice job. Dovetail drawers are so elegant. I really can't tell by looking, but did you also do blind dovetails to the drawer faces, too.

Impressive!
I build my drawer boxes as a unit, then add false fronts.

This makes it easier to change the drawer fronts, not if, when the wife redecorates. While she won't change these the habit carries over.

Looking great and from what I can see the dovetails look perfect. Did you do them by hand or router jig?
I use a router jig for dovetails. I like form and function, but not CDO enough to cut them by hand, especially when doing multiple drawers :D
 

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I build my drawer boxes as a unit, then add false fronts.

This makes it easier to change the drawer fronts, not if, when the wife redecorates. While she won't change these the habit carries over.



I use a router jig for dovetails. I like form and function, but not CDO enough to cut them by hand, especially when doing multiple drawers :D

A most EXCELLENT job. Thanks for letting us see.
 
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I use a router jig for dovetails. I like form and function, but not CDO enough to cut them by hand, especially when doing multiple drawers :D
I love/hate hand cutting dovetails, but with that many joints, you'd be working on it all year! Router and jig is the way to go.

Please update when you finish it.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I either miss counted or lost the slides for one of the drawers. But they should be here Friday

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Discussion Starter #19
And now the drawers are in.

B073477D-4C1A-4DCD-98C9-A28C04E66DA1.jpeg

Sometime next week I’ll make the trip to Menards and Home Depot and see if they have any Red Oak suitable for drawer fronts. I maybe in Wichita monday :confused:
 
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