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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally getting on the AR bandwagon.

Just placed an order for an S&W M&P15 Sport on Gunbuyer.com who has them on sale for $539.
(Also threw in a Maverick 88 20" 7+1 12ga which I've been hesitating on but it was $223. Even though I could've gotten a Stevens 320 with 2 barrels for a little bit cheaper, I think the 7+1 of the Mav tickles me a little bit nicer.)


So . . . . what kind of ammo should I start looking for? It's labeled 5.56 NATO, 16" barrel with a 1 in 9" twist. I think it used to be 1 in 8" 5-sided? but the current info page says 1 in 9" and I guess 6 land/groove. Speaking of, is 1 in 9" bad? Is it worth the trouble of finding a different barrel? I'll just be punching paper and I'm assuming I can just pick ammo to suit the 1 in 9".

I don't know much about this AR business, so hopefully responses will constitute a crash course before it arrives.
What should I inspect before accepting it? Is this a direct or piston or what? Is it Mil spec or commercial? Any and all info would be appreciated.
 

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Ok shania twain


Sent from an undisclosed underground location by fingerless monkeys using Tapatalk
 
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I love me some Shania Twain but I don't get the gist of your comment, sir
 

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I don't know the exact range but the first couple of years they used the 1:8 5R rifling. I have one of those. Then they switched to the 1:9, 6 groove barrel. I have one of those too. I'm not an expert on barrel rifling but the 1:9 is said to work best with lighter bullets, 55gr, although I have ran 75gr. Hornady bullets, just a few, through my 1:9 barrel and it seemed to handle them just fine.

Personally I wouldn't bother with another barrel. Yes the Sport is chambered for 5.56 so it will shoot that or .223 just fine. The Sport is mil-spec. It's a DI gun.

I guess I don't really know about officially inspecting it! Make sure the upper and lower don't have too much play. Make sure everything moves freely and the way it's supposed too. There should be some folks along that have more knowledge in that area than I am.

Congrats on the new guns. My Sports have been 100% through a lot of rounds, including 3-gun matches.
 

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Congrats on the new AR!!! Yours is the mil-spec type that is a direct (non piston) style. You might want to do a search for the lubrication chart of a AR. Enjoy!
 

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Full auto Q. ;)


Verify the charging handle / BCG , safety, trigger, and other actions work smoothly. Look for crack in the upper and lower frame, etc. But with the warranty I would not worry about it.
 

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So . . . . what kind of ammo should I start looking for? It's labeled 5.56 NATO, 16" barrel with a 1 in 9" twist. I think it used to be 1 in 8" 5-sided? but the current info page says 1 in 9" and I guess 6 land/groove. Speaking of, is 1 in 9" bad? Is it worth the trouble of finding a different barrel? I'll just be punching paper and I'm assuming I can just pick ammo to suit the 1 in 9".
The 1:9 will stabilize 55gr to 75gr projectiles. The caveat is that as you near the 75gr "high" end, the ability to stabilize the projectile is completely dependent on the barrel. Every barrel has it's own unique properties. As for what ammo to buy, here are some quick pieces of advice.


  • Your M&P 15 Sport will shoot .223 Remington and 5.56 NATO ammunition.
  • The M&P 15 Sport is intentionally a tad over gassed to ensure cycling with the majority of commercially available off the shelf ammo.



What should I inspect before accepting it? Is this a direct or piston or what? Is it Mil spec or commercial? Any and all info would be appreciated.
Your 15-Sport is a direct gas impingement system. The combustion gasses are tapped off through a gas port at the front sight gas block, directed down a gas tube, the gas tube enters the upper, the gas tube mates to the gas key on the Bolt Carrier, the pressure cycles the bolt.

The 15-Sport uses a Mil-Spec butt stock. Everything else is standard AR-15 dimension parts.
 

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McE,

If you have any questions, please feel free to ask or PM me. I'm a 15-Sport owner who has done almost everything to a 15-Sport. I can tell you what worked and what didn't work for me.



The only stock parts left are the upper receiver, lower receiver, castle nut, Thompson Center 1:8 5R Melonite treated barrel, gas tube, buffer tube,mag release, and the small springs/detents.
 

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Kinda like JaPes says, you don't have to change anything, but you can change everything.

As bought....

P1040222.jpg

As is now....

 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
JaPes- how difficult was it changing the A2 style front sight gas block (is that what it's called?) to whatever it is you have there?
 

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Not really too hard, you can find countless YouTube videos on that one. Considering that you're buying an M&P, I don't think you're going to have any problems with the function check before you accept it. Just remember that if things feel a little gritty, it's just because you haven't cleaned and lubricated it yet. The fit between the receivers should be tight, almost impossibly tight. S&W does a darn good job on the machining the fit on these rifles, the pins will be pretty tight the first few times you disassemble. A punch and mallet will help free them up pretty quickly.
 

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JaPes- how difficult was it changing the A2 style front sight gas block (is that what it's called?) to whatever it is you have there?
S&W uses tapered pins that drive in/out opposite from every other AR-15 out there. I forget which way they drive in/out. You'll be able to tell just by looking at it. The pins are in there tight. Even after spraying it down with penetrating oil and letting it dwell, I had to use very stout hammer blows to remove mine. The sequence of operation:

1. Clear rifle, make safe.
2. Remove handguards.
3. Tap out gas tube roll pin.
4. Remove gas tube.
5. Remove muzzle device.
6. Spray pin area with penetrating oil (optional step)
7. Pound out A2 front sight gas block pins that affix it to the barrel
8. Spray the barrel with a little lube.
9. Slide off A2 Front sight gas block assembly.

I installed a YHM clamp-on low profile gas block. I made 100% sure the gas port and gas block are aligned. Also while the barrel was naked, I inspected the gas port cleaned out any debris. I checked for flame cutting.

At this point of disassemble, it behooves you to have made the choice of handguard. If you choose a free float handguard that utilizes the stock barrel nut, all you have to do is remove the delta ring & delta ring spring. If you choose a free float handguard that utilizes a proprietary barrel nut, you'll have to back off the stock barrel nut, remove the delta ring & spring, install the new proprietary barrel nut. While you're at it, decide what muzzle device you want. Might as well replace it while you've got everything else apart.

Install everything back in order and to torque spec.
 

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....The fit between the receivers should be tight, almost impossibly tight. S&W does a darn good job on the machining the fit on these rifles, the pins will be pretty tight the first few times you disassemble. A punch and mallet will help free them up pretty quickly.
An "Accu-wedge" is one of the best add-ons one can put on an AR-15. $4 from DT is about the best price I've found, even better than Amazon. It takes up any slack between the receiver halves and they last forever it seems.

Del-Ton, Inc. AR-15 Accu-Wedge
 

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Finally getting on the AR bandwagon.

Just placed an order for an S&W M&P15 Sport on Gunbuyer.com who has them on sale for $539.
(Also threw in a Maverick 88 20" 7+1 12ga which I've been hesitating on but it was $223. Even though I could've gotten a Stevens 320 with 2 barrels for a little bit cheaper, I think the 7+1 of the Mav tickles me a little bit nicer.)


So . . . . what kind of ammo should I start looking for? It's labeled 5.56 NATO, 16" barrel with a 1 in 9" twist. I think it used to be 1 in 8" 5-sided? but the current info page says 1 in 9" and I guess 6 land/groove. Speaking of, is 1 in 9" bad? Is it worth the trouble of finding a different barrel? I'll just be punching paper and I'm assuming I can just pick ammo to suit the 1 in 9".

I don't know much about this AR business, so hopefully responses will constitute a crash course before it arrives.
What should I inspect before accepting it? Is this a direct or piston or what? Is it Mil spec or commercial? Any and all info would be appreciated.
Way to double up M8!!!

each barrel twist rate has a pretty wide range of bullet weights it can handle. Folks will argue about it too! Here's a page from Stag - an AR builder, that is pretty clear and 40-75gr will run in a 1:9 - ymmv and the middle is a sweet spot. 55gr is the most popular shelf ammo with 60 & 62 appearing - often in 5.56.

Shoot 'em all with confidence!!

How Barrel Twist Rate Affects Ammunition Choice

Does the Maveric take chokes?!
If not (and you have enough barrel wall) a gunsmith can tap that for you - adds a lot of versatility 20" or not!!!
 

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JaPes- how difficult was it changing the A2 style front sight gas block (is that what it's called?) to whatever it is you have there?
Option B on adding a free float guard is to cut down the existing sight/gas block combo to make your own (free) low gas block. There are endless vids on line for the how-to. It is a piece of cake and, yeah, free float front with rail options is a great upgrade!!

UTG has a new slim guard that is a decent price, is functional and looks good. Been eying it. Handled one on a gun yesterday at the range.

There are very good $40 Chinese no-namers on the market as well - I speak from experience on that topic!! ;)
 
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I don't know about the 223...but my M&P 15 in 22 is a blast to shoot. Brilliant right out of the box! LGS cleans and lubes everything they sell before they hand it over!
Then if you want...when you need another clean they show you how to do it in the store. Saturdays is clean and lube day!
 
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