How do you conceal carry your Millenium?

Condition 1 - loaded w/safety on. As for holster - several depending on dress and weather. IWB Remora 5ART-FS; 106NA77Z0 DeSantis Sof-Tuck; Kholster Crescent; OWB SP11B Fobus paddle or DeSantis Mini-Slide 086BA80Z0 (for PT24/7, but most 24/7 Pro holsters fit the MilPros as well). All usually 3-4 O'Clock position - 5 is too far back except with the Sof-Tuck w/adj. cant - not too bad - but problems sitting and buckling up seatbelt in that position. Then there are pocket holsters that fit both Slims & MilPro's but they are winter only and not pants pocket - vest, jacket, coat. Also have a Old Faithful MoB (middle of back - 6 O'clock) that is similar to what you are saying (basically a left hand holster for a rightie), which does not require wrist twist to draw (works with both PT24/7 & MilPro's) - and yes you do sweep your butt when drawing - just gotta remember to keep finger clear of trigger until you are clear of sweep.

Any pistol w/o manual safety, I will not carry or bedside with one in chamber, so I don't carry them at all.

Ravenmore said:

Couple of questions:

1.)Do you carry with a round in the chamber? I'm new to carrying (what gave that away eh? ). Definitely feel a little nervous with a round in the chamber.

2.)I want to carry inside the waist band - probably at my 5 o'clock. Right handed holsters seem awkward for this because the grip at this position is further away (closer to my left side). It just feels like an awkward reach. Wouldn't a left handed holster be better as it points the grip closer to my right hand? Or are their concerns about 'sweeping yourself' when drawing from that position? (only reasonable reason I can think of).

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You'll likely get as many different opinions as you get responses and all of them are valid. There is no one size fits all answer. In the end you'll have to decide for yourself after considering them all.

I've only had my CHL for a few months and carry my PT145 OWB in a Bianchi #7506 and have found it to be very comfortable and efficient. I am still looking for a IWB holster to try so I can't give you an opinion about that.

I carry right side just forward of my hip. I find this works well as far as easy draw plus the holster and weapon are not in the way when I drive and I can access the gun even with the seatbelt on.

As far as carrying locked and loaded that is strictly up to the individual. I carry full magazine, one in the chamber, and safety on. If you practice (with empty weapon of course) drawing and flipping off the safety as you bring the gun up it will become second nature and you will automatically do the same if you ever have to draw in an actual stressful situation.

Some advocate carrying with an empty chamber and racking the slide if needed. I can't and won't say that tactic is wrong but it's not something I do or recommend. I learned in Vietnam that when the real you-know-what hits the fan there is not time to chamber a round because things happen faster than you can imagine in real life.

Just my 2 1/2 cents.

Concealed carry gets easier after the Wally Walk; you realize that most people are oblivious.

IWB just behind the hip on the strong side works best for me, but then I know that some people appendix carry, some small-of-the-back carry, some shoulder holster, some ankle, and some cross-draw. You'll find the style that fits you and you'll wonder why other people carry differently.

Safety-only, safe-action, double action, whatever. The gun that you feel comfortable with will, by default, have the safety system you feel comfortable with, and that is driven by practice and repetition. Intellectually thinking through safety at a keyboard is one thing. Carrying it around on your hip and maintaining it in practical use is another.

While there is a strong safety impulse for carrying with an empty chamber, you ratchet up the responsibility to be aware of your surroundings when you add the need to chamber a round before you can respond. And the act of chambering a round is, in and of itself, a response. I know that in the movies whoever is waving a gun around always has time for a few catchy lines and to rack the slide.

Since I don't have the luxury of writing the script, I have to be ready to ad lib. And I'd rather not risk spending the rest of my life trying to chamber a round when I need it.

dbeardslee: I am interested in this modification, so your 10+1 with safety off and have a FULL DA pull from the start?

OP: Good choise on the FOxX IWB, good retention and after less than a week wearing it, you will be quite comforatable with it and forget it's there. I, like many, carry 10+1 in the tube with safety on at 4 o'clock. Currently searching for a 24/7 mag with sleeve to keep in the pocket.

Ordered mine on Amazon and got it in 8 days!

dbeardslee: I am interested in this modification, so your 10+1 with safety off and have a FULL DA pull from the start?

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I just carry 9 in the mag with one up the spout. PT145 mags can get pretty tight under a closed slide, and the top round doesn't always feed properly. It works just dandy with 9 in the mag though, so that's the way I carry it.

On the DAO mod I removed the SA sear, sear pin, sear spring, link pivot and link. Then I bent the DA sear on the back of the trigger bar back about 3/32" so that the sear would trip at the same point the SA sear did. If you drop a pencil down the barrel on a milpro, and pull the trigger in SA mode, and repeat the exercise in the DA mode you should see the pencil jump higher in SA mode. Reason is it compresses the striker spring about 3/32" more when the striker hook is on the SA sear than where it releases from the DA sear. By bending the sear back you get the same strike that you would from SA every time. It stacks a little at the end of the pull, but I find that just helps me stage the trigger.

You have to be VERY careful when bending the back of the trigger bar. It's just a VERY small bend that's needed. If you bend it too far, or start bending it back and forth you run the risk of breaking it. I used a real tiny set of channel locks (5") that allowed me to reach way down low to do the bend, and I slowly applied pressure until I just felt the metal give a little. You wind up with a 2mm gap between the front of the DA sear and the frame at it's widest point - no more than that.

You need the bend, but I say again - it's a very small bend, and you need the right tool. I know of at least one other member who tried it and got too aggressive with his bending and broke the trigger bar. So proceed at your own risk.

This is how mine runs DAO -