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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, I am the new owner of a blue 3" model 65 as of yesterday. :D

I have done a bit of reading, and it seems that people stay away from shooting too many 125 gr loads in these guns, that the heavier bullets like 158 gr. are preferable. I like the gun a lot, and don't want to damage it unnecessarily. The only .357 load I had on hand was a box of Hornady 125 gr FTX Critical Defense.

Do I need to pick up some boxes of 158 gr .357 for this 65? I don't plan on shooting thousands of rounds through it, just a few cylinders' worth at the range then it's loaded and put away.

Thanks for any help.
 

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You will be fine shooting the FTX ammo. Find if it shoots to POA in your 65, and you will be just fine. You can always use the heavier bullets for practice, but as long as you know the good stuff will do what you need it to do when you need it, you will be good to go.......
 

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Welcome aboard from the Gunshine State.
Your m65 sights, as are all fixed sight 38's and 357 magnums, probably regulated for 158 gr projectiles, that's P.O.A. = Impact. You can shoot any load you want, just realize that the lighter loads will most likely shoot a little low. Real heavy loads (Buffalo Bore rates their [email protected] 780 ft.lbs, M.E.) will increase the wear on the gun and will beat you into submission, too.
I regularly shoot 38s from my 357 magnum Dan Wessons. They are less money and a lot more fun. I rarely shoot 357s other than the occasional cylinder to remind myself about the added recoil.
I am guessing that this is your "Do All" weapon, as was mine.....at first. I keep several loads in the 38 Special ammo box because the 357 magnum platform is extremely versatile. I have C.C.I. snake loads, 130 gr. F.M.J., 125gr. X.T.P., and G.S. Custom (local) 125gr H.P.s. Plus there are the 357s in their own ammo box. ( 130 gr. F.M.J., 158 gr S.J.H.P. and 158gr X.T.P. Plus one box of W.W.B. 125gr 38Special +P kept there because my old Rossi is not +P rated.)
P.S. Neither of my D.W.s are my everyday guns. I rotate between a Rossi m68 snubby, PT-111 Mil., Beretta 84, and my Daily Companion this week is the PT-908.
 

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A 125 grain projectile is shorter than a 158 grain, and as a result it's pretty much all the way out of the casing when it contacts the forcing cone. The 158 grain, being longer, is still held at the rear by the casing when the tip enters the forcing cone, which helps to keep it going straight. The 125 grain being clear of the casing can result in the round being slightly off kilter when it enters the forcing cone. The only 357 I know of where that's a problem is the S&W model 19/66, and that's due to the bottom of the forcing cone being ground flat to accommodate the crane assembly, which makes it a little weaker in that location. Some of them have cracked at the forcing cone due to 125 grain rounds repeatedly striking it. Again, the Smith model 19/66 is the only weapon I'm aware of that exhibits this problem. And even on the Smith's it's not always a problem - I had a 66 that I put MANY full power 125 grain bullets through, and I never had a problem with it. I don't know if the Taurus 65 has the bottom of the forcing cone ground flat, but if it is I'd keep an eye on it for cracks around the forcing cone. If it's not ground flat I wouldn't worry about 125 grain rounds too much.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the replies, guys. It sounds like the 125 FTXs won't kill the 65, so they'll stay till I can get to Academy. Drummin Man, thanks for the info on the 158 gr & POI. I needed to know this. I like having ammo that shoots to the guns POI, so next time I'm out I'll look for the 158s, and give those a try.
I have some shot shells too, 38s, IRC, gotten in a trade; theres 10 or 12 of the big 180 or 200 gr (guy couldn't rem which) Monarch .357 SP; the 125 FTX; some 125 gr 38 Spl +P WWB; and I loaded my wife's new Taurus 85 UL with the last 5 129 gr Hydrashoks I had. I also have an EAA Windicator .357 loaded with the 125 38 Spl +P WWB. Wife likes revolvers so I cultivate her interest whenever possible. The 65 is for me though; I've had the hots for a 3" wheelgun for a while now, so it'll probably sit on or in my desk.
 

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And where's my manners. I just noticed your post count, so I'll add this - Welcome to the forums!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
And where's my manners. I just noticed your post count, so I'll add this - Welcome to the forums!
Thanks you sir! Thanks to all of you.

I may go look at Uncle Mikes holsters. I don't carry much, but it's nice to have the option.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks Gary.


I took the side plate off, following a guide I found here in the Smithing section. I cleaned everything, the internals were covered in a tan grease that had some dirt and debris in it, and re-greased the appropriate areas*, after a gentle polish on the contact surfaces- nothing major at all, just light smoothing. I thought something fell off the crane when I took it off, but I couldn't see anything on the floor, so I figured a shadow, 46 yr-old eyes, etc. I put it back together, and the cylinder wouldn't lock!

Panic! I knew I shouldn't have messed with it, now look.......


I get the bright lamp, and there's a small spring with a button and shaft on the floor. I look up at the drawing to see where it goes, put it back in the crane, and click-click, the cylinder locks.

Whew.

Dry-fire- ok. Cock hammer, test, all is well. A little smoother, although it was an outstanding trigger without my fumbling.

So at least it's now clean on the inside, and I got to poke around a bit, and it still works. :D



* (I use a synthetic Mobil grease, with WS2, a dry lube, mixed in.)
 

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I get the bright lamp, and there's a small spring with a button and shaft on the floor. I look up at the drawing to see where it goes, put it back in the crane, and click-click, the cylinder locks.
That's why I never work over carpet, and I always keep a magnet handy when working on firearms. You know Murphy's Law for mechanical stuff - "The smallest part always flies the farthest." Glad you found it. :D
 

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The danger of firing the 125 gr. .357 loads is somewhat overstated. There were some problems with some guns (as previously noted the S&W K frames) but it was mostly confined to just some cases in guns after firing thousands of rounds and was discovered in police guns that got shot quite a bit. To be honest it's unlikely you'l fire enough 125's to cause any real damage for two reasons. The first is the cost, the second is I think you'll find the the 125's in short barrels are kind of nasty to shoot. I've fired a few thousand of them and never had a problem, even in the very guns that are supposedly susceptible to damage from them.

And it is likely you'll find they shoot a tad low. But you never know until you try them. Welcome to the forum!
 

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I took care of the 125gr. problem by firing mostly Remington Golden Sabers in 125gr. guise.

That is to say I fire some 125gr. full power rounds,and have, but do not do it a lot. Part of the reason is that the heavier bullet weights from 140-158 gr. are what's needed,can be carried in the field, and even be used for deer hunting or for game in that class. These bullet weights also hit at or near point of aim for my Taurus 65,66s, 689, and 669s.
 

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After doing some research the FTX is not a full barn burner suck groundhogs out of their burrows power load. It is plenty hot enough as is and seems to be on par with the Remington Golden Saber. At least in the ballpark.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for the info Quik.

Hornady lists the velocity on the box of 125 gr FTX as 1500 fps, so I figured it was warm enough of a load to ask.

I had thought that a lighter bullet would result in less stress on the gun. :D
 

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The .357 magnum rounds of old.... way back... were advertised at that velocity.

The 1500 fps is from a vented barrel. The longer barrel would boost velocity on it's own!! Vented barrel velocities are noted to be higher than when shot from an actual gun barrel.
Test Barrel (8 V") Velocity (fps) / Energy (ft-lbs)
Muzzle 50 100
1500/624 1301/470 1147/365

Take a look at this.
(2" Barrel) Velocity (fps) / Energy (ft-lbs)
Muzzle 50 100
1200/400 1084/326 1002/279
That's for the two inch barrel. That one may be closer to the truth than the vented barrel data. It's still moving pretty good. Add 100-200 feet per second for each extra inch of barrel and you still have quick mover.

Running it across a real chronograph would help settle a few things. That's with 2,4,and 6 inch barrels.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I am thisclose to trading a Glock 22 for a Taurus 444 UL. I have no way to get to Baytown (SE of Houston) and so the deal is stalled. Blued, 4" barrel- the exact one I had been wanting. Got my eye on some mid-range loads for it, too, and maybe a box of BuffaloBore heavy 44 Spl.

The guy I got the 65 from has a 66 to, a 4" SS model, an older 6-shot 66, with target sights. Tempting, very tempting.


I like the functionality of the Glock, it's the AK of handguns, hi-cap, reliable, accurate enough. But I love revolvers of all types. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I drove over to Gander Mountain tonight and picked up some boxes of Hornady 158 gr XTP. Tomorrow, the range!
 
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