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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know there is a TON of information out there. I know because I've gotten dizzy trying to read all I can. What I need is a recommendation on parts and who to get them from. Also, is .223/5.56 or 300BLK the way to go? I'm already setup to reload for .223 but 300BLK is not out of the question as, from what I understand, it seems to do better out of a shorter barrel than .223/5.56 does.

I realize I'm opening a huge can of worms here but there's just so much information out there it's hard to make a decision. I respect the opinion of the fine members here so I thought maybe you folks could help me out and I truly appreciate any guidance given. This will be my first build if you couldn't tell already :D
 

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I've had 5.56/223 and 300blk pistols. To me the 300blk was much more fun to shoot. I've used 80% lowers and store bought lowers. I had fun with the doing the 80%ers but eventual got rid of all but one. The last one I made worked just fine and I used it on one of my two 5.56 rifles. The others all developed problems and became flat due to a 5 lb sledge. Part of my anger management program. For a first time project I'd suggest using budget parts. No sense using high dollar parts for something you might just hate. I'd spend a few bucks buying the right tools. The job is always easier when you have the right tools. Pre made uppers would be the best way to go if you don't want to spend the extra for the various vice blocks and wrenches that would make an upper assembly easier, and you can get a pretty wide ranging choice of barrel lengths.

Texan 5.56.jpg Aero Texas 300Blk.jpg Anderson Pistol lower.jpg Anderson300 Blackout Rifle.jpg

These are all the home built rifles/pistols/SBR that I have left. The flag rifle is the only 80% I've got left. It was the best of the lot that I bult, and I'll probably never do another. My end mill bit wore out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I should probably mention that I have a buddy with a vise that would have no problem lending it to me and buying the right tools is no issue either. I am wanting to go with a short barrel in the 10.5-11.5 inch range due to functionality issues I've read about with using anything shorter.
 

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Outside of the ability to proudly say that you built it yourself, I didn't find a lot of incentive to build one. I have three AR's ..the 5.56 was purchased complete, and the 300 BLK carbine and pistol were bought with complete uppers and lowers from different makers. I suppose if one shopped out carefully the various components that a savings of 10-15 % might be possible..in the past. There's the argument that you can build them just the way you want it, but I am very pleased with mine. In fact I had the 5.56 out for a spin today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Outside of the ability to proudly say that you built it yourself, I didn't find a lot of incentive to build one. I have three AR's ..the 5.56 was purchased complete, and the 300 BLK carbine and pistol were bought with complete uppers and lowers from different makers. I suppose if one shopped out carefully the various components that a savings of 10-15 % might be possible..in the past. There's the argument that you can build them just the way you want it, but I am very pleased with mine. In fact I had the 5.56 out for a spin today.
I was always under the impression you could save a bunch of money building it yourself. I thought I just sucked at shopping :D
 

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right now the FFL fee costs almost as much as a stripped lower($40), but i am seeing prices go up fast. the AR10 upper i want has gone up 20% in a week and they only have 2 version in stock, neither what i want.
Buy a virgin stripped lower, then a barreled upper and the rest can be shipped direct to you and assembled as a pistol. IMHO, .300, hands down for a pistol. .223 just not designed to perform in a short barrel. There are other neat cartridges, but only the .300 lets you use all AR15 parts. I built a 8.5" .300 and no issues on reliability. shoots all weights and velocities of commercial ammo to same POI at 50 yds.
20170716_163206.jpg
 

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Ok, this is an area where I waited a little too long, then jumped the gun, which, in retrospect wasn't that bad a thing. Something to keep in mind is that the 300BLK was designed for a shorter barrel (and subsonic with suppression) but retains much more kenetic energy at 100-200 yards (the general effective and intended range of a rifle caliber pistol) and uses essentially magnum powders or fast rifle powders, depending on what you are shooting. They are also much more reliable than the .223 due to the powder requirements. The .223 will still be loaded with slower burning rifle powder and will create a ginormous fireball and the round will lose about 30% muzzle velocity from the shorter barrel, while the 300BLK really only gains about 4% velocity for every inch past 8" of barrel length (for instance, my 10.5" barrel delivers only about 150fps less than a 16" barrel while a .223 loses almost 800fps from the same.

However, you reeeeeeeally want to reload for 300BLK - ammo isn't cheap unless you reload.

I just put together a 300BLK pistol:

20180219_000735.jpg

The parts list from back to front and prices follow:

KAK Shockwave brace and tube $49 (ebay) --any pistol bufer tube will work but the KAK has little dimples for the set screw
Generic Carbine buffer and spring - $10 - Primary Arms
Anderson stripped lower - Rural King $49.98 (in store, no transfer)
Milspec LPK including fire control group - $36 - ebay
Stripped Anderson upper Primary Arms (they were out of completed uppers) $49
Some off-brand UPK - Primary arms $17 (together saved a whole whopping $3 over a completed upper...had they been in stock)
MilSpec MPI BCG - Palmetto State Armory $59.00
UTG "Sniper" Pistol Grip - $9.00 (ebay has them but I got one locally)
Angled 12" M-Lok hand guard - $52 - ebay **If you don't care for or want an angled hand guard, you can get regular keymod/M-Lok for around $25 depending on length
10.5" Melonite 1:8 mid-profile pistol gassed barrel - $72.00 Two Testicles Tactical
Generic low profile gas block - $14 (locally but ebay has them everywhere)
generic melonite gas tube $7 - local (again, ebay has them as well)
Krinkov Blast Can muzzle device - $18.00 ebay (I've changed it out for a slightly shorter one already and have it just lying around now...hint hint)
MOE M-LOK Hand Stop $12 - ebay

I think I paid $8 for shipping for the Primary Arms stuff and $0 for everything else

Grand Total: $462.00

Optics are on you :) but I payed $18 for a set of aluminum flip-ups on Amazon a while back.

I went that route because nobody had exactly what I wanted (I really wanted that angled hand guard and the flash can I ended up with) and certain things just weren't in stock anywhere.
 

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I built my second AR (11.5 inch barrel) back in 86. Thankfully I worked in a machine shop then. I ended up making my barrel blocks and buying a wrench for the the barrel nut. It took about 3 hours to assemble.
 

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I built my second AR (11.5 inch barrel) back in 86. Thankfully I worked in a machine shop then. I ended up making my barrel blocks and buying a wrench for the the barrel nut. It took about 3 hours to assemble.
As standardized as they are now, assembly was about an hour.
 

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Here is a good thread that goes over most of what you have asked about. http://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/other-handguns/324154-ar-pistol-guys-have-some-questions.html

I have AR pistols in both 5.56mm and in .300BLK. Go with the .300 Blackout. I built the 5.56mm for my Daughter in Law, against my better judgement, but she wanted a short barrel like her husband carries, just without the SBR restrictions and cost. I test fired it to adjust the BTE adjustable gas block. I was wearing ear plugs and headphones and my ears were still ringing after shooting it. Shooting that rifle in an enclosed space, like a house, would leave your ears bloody without hearing protection, not to mention the flash and concussion are very impressive. The Blackout on the other hand is not anywhere near as loud, and if you are shooting subs it is actually quiet compared to say, .22LR Minimags.

I will lay out a few items of advice.

1. Go ahead and buy a good quality lower receiver first. I, personally, prefer the Aero Precision Gen2 (which has been running on sale at different places online for about $70). It has a nylon tipped screw under the grip to adjust the fit of the upper to the lower to take out wobble. There are others with that feature now and the next good option is a threaded hole instead of a roll pin for the bolt release lever. But the lower is the key part of the build and the only part that requires you to go through a FFL. The rest of the AR can be delivered directly to your house.

2. An AR pistol kit (everything minus the lower receiver) is usually the cheapest route to go. They almost always come with the upper completely assembled. I have assembled several ARs using PSA kits and I have been impressed by the quality of the parts that come with those kits. Next best option is a completely assembled upper (with, or without, a BCG and charging handle), a lower build kit, and a BCG and charging handle if needed. All the kits are put together around you having the lower receiver. This allows them to ship the kits directly to your house, no need for a FFL.

3. Get a manual on assembling an AR. Or download and watch You Tube videos on assembling the AR. They usually break the videos down into uppers and lowers to keep them fairly short.

4. On any short barreled (less than 16") .300 Blackout, you need a barrel with a "pistol length" gas port and a gas block, preferably adjustable. BTE has a good low profile gas block for $36 delivered, I have several. The adjustable gas block will allow you to tune your blackout for smoother operation depending on what you are shooting, which can range from 110 grain supersonic loads to 250 grain subsonic loads. The supersonic ammo can be pretty harsh so turning down the gas smooths it out.

5. On any short barrel AR you need a flash can, or equivalent muzzle device that pushes the gases forward from the muzzle. Getting your hand too far forward on one with a standard A2 birdcage can result in loosing a finger. The people around you will appreciate you using a flash can too.

6. Use a grip with a reduced angle, like the MagPul MOE K2, Bravo5, or Mission First grips. It will make holding the pistol much easier and with less stress on your wrist.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok, this is an area where I waited a little too long, then jumped the gun, which, in retrospect wasn't that bad a thing. Something to keep in mind is that the 300BLK was designed for a shorter barrel (and subsonic with suppression) but retains much more kenetic energy at 100-200 yards (the general effective and intended range of a rifle caliber pistol) and uses essentially magnum powders or fast rifle powders, depending on what you are shooting. They are also much more reliable than the .223 due to the powder requirements. The .223 will still be loaded with slower burning rifle powder and will create a ginormous fireball and the round will lose about 30% muzzle velocity from the shorter barrel, while the 300BLK really only gains about 4% velocity for every inch past 8" of barrel length (for instance, my 10.5" barrel delivers only about 150fps less than a 16" barrel while a .223 loses almost 800fps from the same.

However, you reeeeeeeally want to reload for 300BLK - ammo isn't cheap unless you reload.

I just put together a 300BLK pistol:

View attachment 392441

The parts list from back to front and prices follow:

KAK Shockwave brace and tube $49 (ebay) --any pistol bufer tube will work but the KAK has little dimples for the set screw
Generic Carbine buffer and spring - $10 - Primary Arms
Anderson stripped lower - Rural King $49.98 (in store, no transfer)
Milspec LPK including fire control group - $36 - ebay
Stripped Anderson upper Primary Arms (they were out of completed uppers) $49
Some off-brand UPK - Primary arms $17 (together saved a whole whopping $3 over a completed upper...had they been in stock)
MilSpec MPI BCG - Palmetto State Armory $59.00
UTG "Sniper" Pistol Grip - $9.00 (ebay has them but I got one locally)
Angled 12" M-Lok hand guard - $52 - ebay **If you don't care for or want an angled hand guard, you can get regular keymod/M-Lok for around $25 depending on length
10.5" Melonite 1:8 mid-profile pistol gassed barrel - $72.00 Two Testicles Tactical
Generic low profile gas block - $14 (locally but ebay has them everywhere)
generic melonite gas tube $7 - local (again, ebay has them as well)
Krinkov Blast Can muzzle device - $18.00 ebay (I've changed it out for a slightly shorter one already and have it just lying around now...hint hint)
MOE M-LOK Hand Stop $12 - ebay

I think I paid $8 for shipping for the Primary Arms stuff and $0 for everything else

Grand Total: $462.00

Optics are on you :) but I payed $18 for a set of aluminum flip-ups on Amazon a while back.

I went that route because nobody had exactly what I wanted (I really wanted that angled hand guard and the flash can I ended up with) and certain things just weren't in stock anywhere.
Under the picture is exactly what I was looking for most. Thank you!
 
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Under the picture is exactly what I was looking for most. Thank you!
I also found an adjustable gas block on ebay for around $30 (made in the US, no less!). Not sure if I need it but figured for the price, what the heck...
 
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300BLK7.5.jpg

My .300BLK pistol with 8.5" PSA SS, 1/8 twist, barrel. Sig brace, Samson 9" handguard, Troy Claymore flash can, Aero Precision lower and PSA upper receivers. Bushnell TRS-25 red dot, MagPul BUIS.
 

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I cheated and ordered a Palmetto State Armory 7" Marauder assembled upper and a complete pistol lower. I mounted an EOTech red dot and laser combo on it and Magpul DE furniture. Very happy with the end result.

 

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Can someone enlighten me as to why one might choose .300 BLK in an AR pistol over 7.62x39 in an AK47 pistol? Genuinely curious. I have the latter and it seems to accomplish the same thing slightly differently.
 

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Can someone enlighten me as to why one might choose .300 BLK in an AR pistol over 7.62x39 in an AK47 pistol? Genuinely curious. I have the latter and it seems to accomplish the same thing slightly differently.
I went with 300 BLK in both a pistol (10") and a 16" carbine for interchangeability with other calibers in the AR platform and I can use the same magazines. Ballistics are close to the 7.62 x 39

The carbine may morph into a 458 SOCOM at some point in the future.
 

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.300 uses same magazines(and have same capacity) as .223, bolt and everything else except barrel is the same as .223. I haven't checked the ballistics from short barrels, but in addition to having subsonic loads, i suspect short barrel performance is better with a .300 than a 7.62.
Can someone enlighten me as to why one might choose .300 BLK in an AR pistol over 7.62x39 in an AK47 pistol? Genuinely curious. I have the latter and it seems to accomplish the same thing slightly differently.
 

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AR pistol over AK pistol, .300BLK versus 7.62x39.....I can build and operate a .300BLK cheaper than a 7.62x39 and the AR is much more accurate than the AK and as long as we are just shooting semi-auto, the reliability is about the same. The plus for me is I reload and I can get components cheaper for the .300BLK. It is so much easier and cheaper to find .308 bullets and the Blackout can handle from 110 grain to 250 grain bullets in .308, while you would be hard pressed to find, much less find cheaper, .310 bullets in the subsonic load size, like 220 grain.
 

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Can someone enlighten me as to why one might choose .300 BLK in an AR pistol over 7.62x39 in an AK47 pistol? Genuinely curious. I have the latter and it seems to accomplish the same thing slightly differently.
Some people are AR guys, some are AK guys. Some have both. I've got 4 AR's and 2 receivers waiting to be built.
 

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Some people are AR guys, some are AK guys. Some have both. I've got 4 AR's and 2 receivers waiting to be built.
I love me an AK, but if I'm honest, I just love the modularity and wide availability of accessories and doodads that the AR offers more.
 
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