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I picked up my brand new PT1911 .45ACP last night. I gave it a good cleaning and then gave everything a good lubing. This morning I went to the range to get some trigger time with it. I shot 50 rounds of American Eagle 230 gr. FMJ and everything was perfect. Then I shot 50 rounds of Federal (Walmart) 230 grain FMJ, again everything perfect. At this point I am grinning ear to ear. What a sweet shooter! First 1911. I got about half way through the 2nd box of American Eagle and it started to FTE on every round. WTF?! It will extract an empty case or a full round when the slide is racked manually but simply will not extract when shooting. I am hoping this is something I can take care of but I have a feeling I will be sending it back to Taurus. :( Any help you can give me will be greatly appreciated.

Well maybe never mind! I didn't take a close look at the extractor before but what I see now can't hardly be what it's suppose to look like. There is a little bit of a "hook" at the bottom but then it's flat the rest of the way to the top of the extractor. I can't imagine that tiny corner is suppose to do all of the extracting work. I'm thinking she's going back to Taurus. :( I have never done that kind of work, how hard is it? Special tools needed? Thanks again.
 

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Here is the dis assembly process, http://www.m1911.org/stripin1.htm


And here is a article on tuning the extractor, Extractor Tuning Tips at the bottom of the page is a good illustration of what the extractor should look like.


One note on the 1911 extractor (and most others), when the 1911 feeds a new round out of the mag the lip on the round slide up and under the extractor hook. If you make the hook go over the lip buy dropping the slide on a chambered round it can break the hook on the extractor. Many pistols use a coil spring to provide extractor tension and it will give enough to let it slip over the round but in the 1911 the extractor itself is made out of spring steel and will not give much, causing damage to the extractor. Also as in any pistols the extractor is a disposable part, many compare them to a light bulb, may last hundreds of thousands of rounds or just a few.
 

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Wow great info stallard. Thank you. I'm reasonbly mechanical so I wil call Taurus and get them to send me a new extractor so I can save my money on shipping the gun back to them. I gave the how to article a quick look and I'm certain I can handle it. I will give it a close read later. Yep judging by the pic at the bottom of the other article there is definitely something missing from mine!Yes I am aware to not make the extractor go "over" a round in the chamber. Actually I may have first learned that on here. So by using the light bulb analogy I'm thinking you are telling me to have a spare around all the time!? Thanks again for your help.
 

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Ok so maybe I have another question if anyone wants to take a shot at it. I have the firing pin locked inside its opening. I see how the firing pin stop works but just how hard does it have to be punched to come out or how much force is needed to get it to slide out? I have a steel punch, not brass, and a small plasitc/rubber headed hammer. I'm just chicken to hit it very hard to get the firing pin stop to come out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok I got it! That's a little nerve racking for the first time! I know you ol' timers are getting a good chuckle out of it though! :)
 

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I am not sure what you mean by the firing pin being locked inside its opening, but normally I would use a punch to push the firing pin back and use finger pressure to push the FP stop down. Or you can flip the slide upside down, put your thumb on the slide and lever up the FP stop using that punch. If it requires more force than that, then I would tap on the punch knocking the FP stop down, but it should not take a lot of force. Watch out for the FP flying out when the FP stop moves out of the way. If it requires more force than that, I suggest sending your PT-1911 back to them for repair of both the extractor and properly fitting the FP stop.

If you have a less than one year old Taurus pistol, they will cover shipping. If you have them send you an extractor, I suggest ordering a spare too (and let them pay the shipping). Extractors are in deed like lightbulbs.
 

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taurus recently has had a run of bad extrtactors in tgeir 1911's, i have had 3 break. good luck on getting one from taurus. they told me they were backordered in blue,but they would send me a stainless extractor until the blue were in then they would send me a blue one. it's been 5 weeks i haven't recieved anything from taurus. you will probably be better off just to order one from Midway or Brownells. if you do the firing pin block & spring may not work but it really is not needed. also order a frame slot blank to fill the space where the series 80 parts (trigger levers) go. you will then have a series 70 setup. you can buy thee extractor for $19.99-$34.00 and frame slot blank for $4.99. the pt 1911 is a very good 1911 and very accurate i love mine,but i am not sold on taurus customor support,trying to get parts is about impossible, just go aftermarket,3 days and you will have parts from Midway or Brownells.
 

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I keep hearing about problems with Taurus Customer Support, but fortunately I have never experienced it. The few times I have sent something back they have been prompt in getting it fixed to my satisfaction and quickly returned to me. I sent back a highly modified 738 "A" model that I have used for several years. Taurus picked up the shipping, even though the pistol was clearly over a year old, almost completely rebuilt it (leaving my modified parts alone as I requested), gave me 2 new magazines and had it back to me in one week. I guess I'm just talking to the right people.

The only 1911 extractor that I have heard were on back order were the .38 Supers. It is best to stay with the Taurus extractors because because they replace them for free and a spare is very cheap. Due to the Taurus Series 80 parts the extractor is a little different and aftermarket extractors may, or may not work (and I have not seen a list of which brands/models do work). All 1911 extractors, if they follow John Browning's original design, are like lightbulbs, so buying a top brand aftermarket extractor, even one made out of unobtainium by elves, will not change the nature of the 1911 extractor (so it makes more since to just keep a spare on hand). Tuning the extractor can help, if your brass is hitting you in the forehead or otherwise not being thrown up and directly to your right, and removing burrs at the claw and radiusing the lower edge will make extraction smoother, but it won't necessarily extend the life of the extractor. They are still like lightbulbs. Check the claw every time you clean your 1911 (every extractor failure that I have ever seen was at the claw) and having a spare that you have already fitted will keep you in front of any tragedy, or in the competition, if that is what you are doing.
 

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i agree with you GreenWolf but taurus extractors are backordered,you just can't get them right now. i talked to christian at ext. 238 he was supposed to be the go to guy,but i have not recieved anything as i stated. i love the pt 1911 but you can't buy taurus parts right now. some have said the wilson combat bulletproof extractor works perfect in the pt 1911,others have said the cylinder & slide extractor works. i will find out i'm am going to order one to today along with a frame slot blank in case the firing pin block and spring won't work. if i ever recieve a extractor from taurus then i can put the series 80 parts back in if i choose. i only have 200 rds. through my current pt 1911(3rd. pistol) i will keep shooting it until the taurus extractor breaks,but want a back up. hopefully the extractor won't break but the serial # is only 2 #'s higher than my last pistol so i doubt it will last.
 

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Personally if a series 80 extractor breaks might as well convert over to a series 70 version like Oso.

As a side note I always keep a little dab of grease on the claw. An old timer told me this and been doing it on my 36 year old Colt series 70 since new, and haven't had to replace the extractor yet. Don't know if it really helps but it can't hurt either.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for all of the input guys. In just a few minutes I'm going to order a Wilson Combat extractor and Monday I will call Taurus and try to get something from them too. They should be more than willing to send me a replacement or two! Plus just sending them to me is a lot cheaper for them. That is if they have any!
 

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Actually I may have first learned that on here. So by using the light bulb analogy I'm thinking you are telling me to have a spare around all the time!? Thanks again for your help.
In my opinion thtas a great idea regardless of manufatcure of 1911 that you have, more so with the Taurus and its slight difference in extractor specs.
I have 2 extras for Colt/Clones in 45, 2 extra Pt1911 for 45, and NOW 2 extras for the PT1911 in 38 Super!
BY the way they did have these in stock a few months back.
I can only remember breaking 1 extractor in a 1911 and thats out of a lot of rounds fired in a lot of 1911's, but hey its a lot easier to reach in the box and pull out a new extractor and fit and tune it than waiting for a simple little part to come in.
Thats what i had to do with my new Pt1911 in 38 Super and taurus had it 5 week cause they didn't have a 38 Super extractor!
course now that i got some it will never break aagain!-LOL
 

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As the others have said it is pretty easy to replace a 1911 extractor. Even tuning it can be done redneck style with an empty brass casing and a loaded one like it said in Stallards link.

Good luck with it all!
 
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