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Discussion Starter #1
I just purchased a new bullshead pt 1911 about a month ago. First range trip the hammer locked back after three rounds, all other functions worked yet. Took pistol apart, didn't find anything out of place. Put pistol back together and the hammer worked properly. Went to range today and hammer locked back on 12th round, same situation. Pistol is new and would rather not send it in but will if have to. Any suggestions on what to look for or should I just send it in.
 

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The only thing I can think of is either the key lock on the hammer is catching, or your thumb safety might be riding up.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the advice. I tried locking and unlocking the hammer lock but that did not change anything. I also wiggled the beavertail around and no luck yet. May just need to leave it with hammer locked in the cocked position and send her in.
 

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without being able to see the pistol and take it apart it could a number of things. it could be the thumb saftey needs a little material removed,it could be the grip saftey is a little to long and needs a little material needs removed. it could be niether,like i said need to see pistol to know for sure. i don't think it would be to hard to fix if you have a understanding of how the 1911 works. if you are mechanically inclined and want to try to fix it yourself go M1911.org,there they have cut away views of a 19911 so you can see how all the parts work,you may be able to determine the problem. please if you don't understand how the 1911 works or are not mechanically inclined send it back to Taurus. you could turn the pistol into a very dangerous and unsafe pistol,possibly even full auto depending on what is causing the problem.nothing will scare the crap out of you more than rack slide by hand and have the pistol go full auto on you.
 

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I am having trouble visualizing exactly what is hapenning. Is the hammer locked back like the safety is on or is it falling to the half-cock position after a round is fired? Can you move the hammer at all once it has "locked back"?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hammer is locked back will not go to half cock. I tried the lock in the hammer, it seems to be working because when I turn the key it locks hammer back till it almost touches beavertail. The grip safety still moves freely and the thumb safety moves also. But hammer is still stuck at full cock. And thank you all for the replies.
 

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This is definitely a situation where pictures would be a great help. There are too many variables that could be causing the condition from the key lock engaging to the mainspring housing binding up.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I just removed mainspring, hammer fell all the way back, hammer pin and sear assembly pin fell out by themselves. Reinstalled hammer and both pins reinstalled mainspring and housing. Hammer now operating normally again.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
IMAG0378.jpg hammer dosent appear straight could this be it. I pulled apart msh and everything appears to be moving freely.
 

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Try checking the adjustment screw on the trigger for over travel!
it could be out of adjustment just enough to hang up the hammer.
Have you messed with that adjustment??
 

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Discussion Starter #13
No I have not, how do I know when it is adjusted correctly. And thanks to everyone for your suggestions this truly is a great forum.
 

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If this were my PT1911, I think I would send it (and those pictures) on vacation to Miami. Others with more 1911 experience than me might chime in, but I think you are on the right track with that hammer being "crooked" or misaligned for some reason.
 

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Back the screw out a little at a time. If you've backed it out almost all the way and the problem continues it's something else. I had a problem with a hammer doing the exact same thing and it turned out the adjustment screw was to far in.
 

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the hammer does look crooked,i would try the trigger adjustment. if not it could be hammer strut and/or mainspring housing or even possibly the pin holes in the frame are not aligned correctly. it could other problems, without seeing the pistol or pics and lots of them its just educated guess.
 

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No I have not, how do I know when it is adjusted correctly. And thanks to everyone for your suggestions this truly is a great forum.
What i do is (WITH AN UNLOADED GUN) cock the hammer, adjust the trigger screw in until when you pull the trigger the hammer will not fall, several tries to get it to that point possibly, then gradually screw the screw out about a half a turn at a time.
pulling the trigger each time, once that you get it to the point that the hammer drops when you pull the trigger, then back out the screw another 1/4 -1/2 turns.
try the trigger several times to make sure the hammer drops each time.
on a carry gun I do a 1/2 turn out to be safe.
 

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Back the screw out a little at a time. If you've backed it out almost all the way and the problem continues it's something else. I had a problem with a hammer doing the exact same thing and it turned out the adjustment screw was to far in.
YEP, after my 1911's have been shot in (say 500-700 rounds) then i always adjust the over travel, you can get to that point where the hammer will drop sometimes and sometimes it won't, thats why i mentioned it.
Most Taurus 1911 's are pretty close to adjusted from the factory, or at least mine have been.
when (if) i replace a trigger on a 1911 I always use a trigger that can be adjusted for both forward travel and over travel, some of these are simply a matter of milimeters between cocked and fiired.
anyway hope that works for you.
 

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Myself, I prefer the triggers with the adjustment tabs. My fusion trigger had both the screw and the tabs. So I just adjusted the tabs and removed the screw.
 
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