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Discussion Starter #1
Hello. I just purchased a used Taurus Raging Judge M513-SS, and she is a wonderful revolver. Unfortunately, the finish on the hammer seems to be flaking off, and I would like to replace it. I am looking at one that is used for a Taurus Judge, and was wondering if there is any difference in hammers between the Judge, and the Raging Judge. My guess is no, but I thought that I would ask here before buying it and finding out that hey are a different part. They appear the same. Thanks in advance for your help, and glad to be a part of this community!
 

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Welcome to the forum!

It would be great to see a photo, if you can get a good clear picture. I'd probably just steel wool it to clean it up and then keep it oiled. That's a safer, more straightforward approach than swapping hammers in my opinion.
 

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You should be able to get (somewhere on the Internet) a parts list for both pieces and see if they are, in fact, the same. It may be worth a "chat" with Taurus customer service as well. I don't know if they would tell you, but they may.

GunBroker.com often sells "parts kits" which are basically just dismantled guns with the receiver removed, and there are many Tauruses that show up there from time to time. Some of those parts kits are reasonable (and some are not).

Also, I've never used numrich gun parts (an online seller) but they have lots of Taurus parts and may have yours. They may also be a source for part numbers even if they are out of stock.

I have no financial interest in any of those listed above, except "I".
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have also considered removing the hammer, steel wooling it to take off the rest of the finish and just keep it oiled and leave it at that. (Was that your suggestion GhostHorse? If so, Sorry, I was misunderstanding you) The function of the hammer is fine, it just doesn't look so great. Thanks for the replies people!!! Please keep them coming if you have any thoughts and or ideas.

I checked Numrich, they don't carry anything other than a holster for the Raging Judge. I found a hammer and trigger on ebay, but they are for a Judge, not a Raging Judge. The frame size is different I believe as the Raging Judge is a 6 shot and the Judge is a 5 shot, and I am leery of whether the pivot point or the hammer strike face might be a different dimension.
 

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That looks like the result of a missed step in the finishing process. I would talk to Taurus first and see if they can help you. You could talk with a gunsmith about how much it would cost to get it refinished yourself. Or you could do as the others suggested and look for a replacement part. Depending on your ability, you may or may not need to gunsmith the do the replacement. Depending on what the gunsmith charges, refinish or parts replacement might end up costing about the same. So, I would recommend calling Taurus first and see if perhaps you can get it fixed through them for free or next to free.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
I spoke with Taurus today, and they actually said that they would replace the hammer as it probably can't be refinished, and it is technically an internal part so it carries a lifetime warranty not just the one year warranty. It would cost me $50 to send it back to them though. they had an option to purchase a repaid $50 label from them that's insured and goes directly to them, or I can send it to UPS myself which one I looked seem to be about the same price. They said that it can take up to 12 weeks to get my firearm back. That doesn't sound the best, but it would be about the same price as replacement parts, if they fit, and I would assume finishing from a gunsmith would be at least that much. I may end up just taking the rest of the finish off of that side of the hammer, keeping it oiled and let it be. If I do that though, I fear the flaking would just continue over time.
Overall, sending it back to them and have them replace the hammer under warranty sounds the best, I just don't want to wait a millenium to get my gun back.
 

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I would either remove the hammer, sand off the poorly applied finish, then polish up to a high shine. Or return to Taurus for replacement. I know it would be a bummer not having the hammer and trigger be the same finish. So I would remove the trigger as well and polish it up to match the hammer. Take both parts after polishing and let them sit 12-24 hours in a bath of CLP to let it penetrate into the steel. Then wipe off excess and reinstall. If you live close to NW Arkansas I would be happy to do it for you no charge. I have taken lots of Taurus revolvers apart it isn't that hard. Just find a video on you tube that shows the same style of internal action work being dis-assembled. I would suggest using the correct sized gunsmithing style of screwdriver so you don't damage the side plate screws.
 

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Welcome to the forum from Northern Illinois! Good luck with whatever route you choose.
 
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Welcome aboard from the "GunShine"state of Florida.


State of over 1 MILLION 971 THOUSAND Concealed Carry Licenses and counting!

I'd send it back if I wanted to perfect & didn't mind the wait.

If the wait bothered me I'd remove the flaking finish, lube it and get to shooting!




 

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Discussion Starter #11
I would either remove the hammer, sand off the poorly applied finish, then polish up to a high shine. Or return to Taurus for replacement. I know it would be a bummer not having the hammer and trigger be the same finish. So I would remove the trigger as well and polish it up to match the hammer. Take both parts after polishing and let them sit 12-24 hours in a bath of CLP to let it penetrate into the steel. Then wipe off excess and reinstall. If you live close to NW Arkansas I would be happy to do it for you no charge. I have taken lots of Taurus revolvers apart it isn't that hard. Just find a video on you tube that shows the same style of internal action work being dis-assembled. I would suggest using the correct sized gunsmithing style of screwdriver so you don't damage the side plate screws.
That is a kind offer, but I am currently stuck up here in the high plains in Colorado. A little too far to drop in for a visit unfortunately or I would probably take you up on your offer! I am actually not sure it would bother me as much if the trigger didn't match the hammer, I just think it looks janky with the flaking. I am sure I could handle the disassembly and re assembly. I have seen it done before, watched a video to refresh my mind, and have been inside Smiths and Ruger revolvers before. The only thing really slowing me down from sending it in is the wait time, as I don't think I could get it back to new condition for less than $50. I am guessing that it wouldn't take them long to get it changed out and back to me as they told me that they had the part in stock. Of course, I imagine that you are in line behind whatever else is in front of you, which could hold me up a bit. I am not sure if Taurus does it or not, but I sent in a Ruger GP100 for a cylinder issue where it had to be manually turned a couple years back, and they went through the gun and changed all the springs and had her clean and in tip top shape and back to me in 2 weeks from the time they received it. They paid the shipping both ways and even gave me a new box and manual for the gun. They didn't want to pay the initial shipping, only the return shipping at first as it was almost a 20 year old gun, but I told them that this would affect my future firearm purchases with this in mind, and the CSA sent me a shipping label VIA email. I said the same to the CSA at Taurus and they just said "We understand sir."
 

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I would either remove the hammer, sand off the poorly applied finish, then polish up to a high shine. Or return to Taurus for replacement. I know it would be a bummer not having the hammer and trigger be the same finish. So I would remove the trigger as well and polish it up to match the hammer. Take both parts after polishing and let them sit 12-24 hours in a bath of CLP to let it penetrate into the steel. Then wipe off excess and reinstall. If you live close to NW Arkansas I would be happy to do it for you no charge. I have taken lots of Taurus revolvers apart it isn't that hard. Just find a video on you tube that shows the same style of internal action work being dis-assembled. I would suggest using the correct sized gunsmithing style of screwdriver so you don't damage the side plate screws.
See what I mean by there being nice, knowledgeable folks here on the TA.net? How many places could you get a gun expert willing to do some work on your baby for free? Of course, SS could be a 14-year old boy just looking to catfish you!

Dang, from the front range of CO to NW Ark, you'd have to go right...through...Wichita. If I had the time off, I'd make half the trip with you just to see it done! I'd like to think I can disassemble a gun (I did replace the grip on a TCP) but my fear is I can't get all the parts back together correctly.
 

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See what I mean by there being nice, knowledgeable folks here on the TA.net? How many places could you get a gun expert willing to do some work on your baby for free? Of course, SS could be a 14-year old boy just looking to catfish you!

Dang, from the front range of CO to NW Ark, you'd have to go right...through...Wichita. If I had the time off, I'd make half the trip with you just to see it done! I'd like to think I can disassemble a gun (I did replace the grip on a TCP) but my fear is I can't get all the parts back together correctly.
14years old!!! I wish...Boy if I new then what I know now. But sadly I am 64 going on 80 if you listen to my body. But heck I am still as dumb as I was when I was 14...yuck yuck..
 

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I have never seen a black crinkle finish on a stainless steel Judge. Mine has a matte stainless finish just like the rest of the pistol. If it was me, I would remove that black finish with some acetone. If the finish is scratched, or has other issues, I would sand out any burrs, scratches, etc. and sand blast it. Then just put in back in the pistol.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I would either remove the hammer, sand off the poorly applied finish, then polish up to a high shine. Or return to Taurus for replacement. I know it would be a bummer not having the hammer and trigger be the same finish. So I would remove the trigger as well and polish it up to match the hammer. Take both parts after polishing and let them sit 12-24 hours in a bath of CLP to let it penetrate into the steel. Then wipe off excess and reinstall. If you live close to NW Arkansas I would be happy to do it for you no charge. I have taken lots of Taurus revolvers apart it isn't that hard. Just find a video on you tube that shows the same style of internal action work being dis-assembled. I would suggest using the correct sized gunsmithing style of screwdriver so you don't damage the side plate screws.
Silverstring- have you ever tried to polish whatever type of metal this hammer is made out of before? Do you think that it will polish up nice? I am not sure what kind of metal it is made of, I would assume stainless, but I am not sure. I would think that if it is, I could get it to look pretty good on a polishing wheel on my grinder. If I get to playing with it, I would assume I am on my own then and Taurus is not going to help me at that point. I am not trying to bust your chops or anything, just trying to get advice from someone who has been there and done that....🙂. I am confident I can disassemble, reassemble and polish it. Thanks for your help, and advice.
 

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If it were me then I would just send it back to Taurus. I'm not sure if Taurus makes their hammers out of steel or MIM, but assuming it's the later then you could very well end up damaging them in attempt to polish them up, and they you'd be out of luck because it's unlikely that Taurus would be as keen about covering parts which were damaged by the owner.
 
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If it were me then I would just send it back to Taurus. I'm not sure if Taurus makes their hammers out of steel or MIM, but assuming it's the later then you could very well end up damaging them in attempt to polish them up, and they you'd be out of luck because it's unlikely that Taurus would be as keen about covering parts which were damaged by the owner.
My guess is MIM which could be part of the reason that the finish didn't adhere well.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
MIM is what I was thinking from the looks of it. Not going to polish up real good from what I have seen. I guess I will send it back and hopefully they get it back in a decent tme frame. I have survived the NFA wait more than once, so I guess I will be alright...😊😊😊. Thanks for the input everyone!!!
 

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I doubt that the hammer would be a MIM part, when it is cheaper to cut the part out of sheet steel, i.e., water, laser, EDM, etc. MIM is usually reserved for parts with a complex shape that is hard to duplicate. A hammer is flat with no complex shapes that are difficult to form. JMHO
 
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