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Discussion Starter #1
Took a little while but I had to fit the hammer pin into the new hammer and new hammer strut... that's fine.

Amazing how ugly the stock hammer is compared to others...lol


I got the Cylinder and Slide matched hammer, sear, disconnector, hammer spring and sear spring.

The problem is when I use their sear spring the grip saftey no longer engages in the sense that I have to PRESS it in, it's ALREADY in... thus can drop the hammer...

If you look at the pictures you will see what I mean, the right side of the spring is significantly not sprung out as much as the stock one.

Stock on the LEFT
C&S on the right.

When I use the STOCK sear spring it's fine, it engages the grip saftey and if it's NOT depressed the hammer doesn't drop at all no matter, how hard I squeeze the trigger.

Thoughts? Should I pull the right side of the spring more outward to mimic that of the stock one?

Everything else is nice on this. Just little baffled by the sear spring.

Pics:

Stock on the LEFT
C&S on the right.



BOTTOM is the stock, top is the C&S:


Side by side:
STOCK on left C&S on right.


I can take more pictures if needed.

Just wondering if anyone has had this issue and if so what is the proper procedure to follow to correct this and make it safe.

Thanks,
-Nigel
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Here is a crappy video, accidently dropped the hammer a little but I got it now to where it just doesn't drop when pulled the trigger by slightly pulling the right most part of the sear spring outwards but no where near the outwardness of the stock, HOWEVER I still think this sear spring needs to be bent backwards a tiny bit.. it's way too loose to me.. You can see in the video where I am moving the beaver tail... it's like the spring is limp... when I put the mainspring housing back in it depresses the entire sear spring (like stock) but because the stock sear spring is bent backwards more it's harder to squeeze the grip safety... honestly I kind of like that better than how it is all limp... makes the gun now feel cheap with the lighter sear spring.






Thanks,
-Nigel
 

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aftermarket sear springs you will have to bend and tweak yourself to get the proper engangment you want. also with most aftermarket hammer,sear,disconnecter kits most of the time you will have to stone the hammer hooks, the sear primary angle and secondary angle. this must be done with the proper jigs,feeler gauges and stones,do not try to freehand that part off the job.also this far into fire control replacement now would be the time to replace the trigger. also once you replace the parts you have your thumb saftey may no longer work and need replaced. one more thing sometimes when you replace the fire contol group you may have to remove some material from your grip saftey even after bending your sear spring.
 

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i just watched the video don't let the hammer hit the frame that hard as you can damage frame and new hammer. there are some videos on youtube how to fit and stone the parts you have. make sure the video is from a gunsmith and not a DIY gunsmith at his kithchen table,not sayin the guy at the kitchen table doesn't know what he is doing 'he may or may not. if you are not careful in fitting the parts not only can your trigger come out worse than from the factory but your pistol can become very very dangerous.


like i stated in post above most aftermarket parts need fitted. hammer hooks should be minimum .020-.025 long, some smiths will shorten them to .018.the sear engagement angle to the hammer hooks is critical in having a safe pistol and a trigger that breaks clean. this is where you need a sear jig,feeler gauge and the right stones to make sure you engagement on both hammer hooks and hooks at the right hieght. very seldom will parts drop in. if manufacturers made 1911's to government specs of the original design of the 1911 or 1911 A1 and aftermarket co.'s made parts to original government specs then parts could drop in. since everybody wanted more accurace than the original pistol was designed for,manufacturers had to tighten frame to slide and barrel to bushing and bushing to frame.thus getting away from original government specs,this is why most parts are oversized and must be fitted. by making parts oversized they are more likely to work in any 1911 with fitting.
 

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Take the third leaf of that new sear spring and gently bend it until it engages the grip safety and you are happy with the tension. It is going to take some trial and error on your part, bend and fit, bend and fit, etc. The C&S Hammer/Sear should be pre-stoned and polished and not need any further work. As I am sure you realize by now there is no such thing as a "drop-in" part for a 1911. Welcome to the wonderful world of amateur gunsmithing.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok sounds good thank you. Yea I accidently let the hammer hit when I didn't want that to happen... hard to hold a camera and do everything.

I realize parts are just a fit but I didn't want to start bending the sear spring and screw up stuff... I had to fit the hammer pin in to the hammer/strut... so this is not that big of a deal then.

I actually got the 1911 because I do like to tinker and mod stuff... so I knew going in that nothing was going to get drop in. As far as stoning the sear and what not, you are correct, C&S already did it, it's all matched that's why I got the set so I wouldnt' ahve to do it. All 3 pieces work flawlessly. I already ordered a new thumb safety even though mine works fine. But I wanted the wide ed brown s/s one...lol

Just wanted to make sure!

Thanks again :)

-Nigel
 

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sounds like you got it,don't be afraid to bend sear spring,you have to and you won't mess it up. good luck enjoy the modifications you made yourself. feels good do a little smith work yourself that improves your pistol.
 
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