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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been working on putting together my second Glock. I've got a bad case of "hot rodder's disease" as one friend calls it. I can't leave stuff alone. So I traded an old Go pro camera I payed $75 for a G19 frame and parts to a buddy that replaced it with a P80 frame. I bought a blemished nitrided slide with parts and sights for about $280. I sent frame off for cerakote to the guy that did my other two slides for $20 each because he had an overstock of a few colors. So I got combat gray done, which cost me $26 total. It came back this week. I still have to do texture on the frame since it's slick. I'm going to do another practice run on a chopped G17 frame that came in today so I can get my edging down and not wreck the cerakote. You have to sand it back off before going at it with a hot iron. So total I have about $400 into it. The fun part was sanding too much on the front of the grip and having the mag release spring pop through. After some research, I used a gen4 glock backstrap and melted plenty of plastic to cover it up and thicken it back up. While I was melting plastic, I decided to fill in the oval indentions on the sides, since I don't recall seeing anyone having done that around the custom glock pages I frequent. I also straightened the hump out on thw backstrap a little. Its not super noticable, but feels better in my hand. I used the "candle method" of heating the backstrap and mashing the hump out on the edge of the table. I think im going to try filling and sanding the hump out on my practice grip and see how it goes. Maybe even add a beavertail from a gen4. I know custom work isn't for everyone and many say it ruins the value of the gun. But the blocky finger grooves don't fit my hand and having a little thinner grip feels much better to me.

It's time consuming since I'm not a pro at this, but am happy with my results so far.

ETA, the rough texture is going to go away when I start stippling it.
 

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I recently picked up a 23 complete slide for a extra 23 frame I had laying around ..
Looks like you are going to have a nice pistol !!
Im going to keep my eye on this thread ...
Thanks for sharing!!
Below is a pic of the 23 I mentioned above
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Here are my other G23 and wife's G42. I sent the slides to the same guy for his overrun cerakote, and had front serrations cut while there. Cost me about $100 for both slides. I'm happy how they turned out as well.

https://www.sastacticalcustoms.com
This is where I sent them. At the bottom is his $20 overrun sale. I got Burnt Bronze and Blue Titanium. He does "a la carte" slide milling options.
 

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Very nice! Quite a project!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Finished it up. Only thing left to do is shine up the trigger bar some. It's a factory trigger so I just want it smoothed out a bit. Going to break it in this week. The trickiest part was doing the edge for the texture without wrecking the cerakote. I did mess it up going around the mag release scallop, so I had to sand it back down. That's why it's two toned. I'm thinking doing the edge and texture work first, then having it taped up for cerakote would work better. None of the guys that post in FB and do great grip work will give out many tips if any at all. Over all I'm happy. It's a tool, and I don't care that it's not pristine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I ran it yesterday for the first time. Put about 230 rounds through it. It was a slow start getting it to break in, but by the end things were looking up. Still need a few more hundred rounds before I'd consider carrying it. I was worried the texture would be a bit rough, but it wasn't.

My buddy brought his Advantage Arms 22lr conversion for his to break in. That thing is sweet, and I'm sold on one. I may entertain selling something to get one. 22lr for more trigger time on your carry gun is the bees knees. Costs less than buying a dedicated 22 pistol. And it even runs in Remington Goldens.

Got those steel plates on ebay, and hit them a few times with 223 out of a 7.5" AR pistol. Luckily they are ar500 plates as advertised. No dings other than paint splatter.
 

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Man, now you've got me looking at doing this using a Polymer80 lower. It looks like a hoot
 
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Never put such temptations in front of tinkerers. It's like waving a red blanket in front of an angry bull.
 

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Pretty much, ya.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Man, now you've got me looking at doing this using a Polymer80 lower. It looks like a hoot
Building one is actually easier than I thought. I've built a couple AR's in the past. I've completely stripped my 1911 to the frame once, which was rough putting back together. I can fully strip a glock now without you tube since I've done it a few times during this project. You can buy stripped glock frames from places if you want to start with a glock frame.
 

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Ummm — DER.
 

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Building one is actually easier than I thought. I've built a couple AR's in the past. I've completely stripped my 1911 to the frame once, which was rough putting back together. I can fully strip a glock now without you tube since I've done it a few times during this project. You can buy stripped glock frames from places if you want to start with a glock frame.
well yea but a 1911 has like 478 parts and a Glock has like 3 parts!!-----:D
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I kept having an issue where the slide wouldn't go all the way forward, and as you released the trigger, you could feel the slide getting "pushed" closed with the trigger bar. Did it dry firing and live fire. I chalked it up to a break in ssue, but still did it. Yesterday I stripped the slide and found the firing in safety wasn't moving up and down in the slide. The bump on the trigger bar was hitting the plunger and pushing the slide closed. I found the spring foe the safety plunger fell out during nstallation and was in the hole sideways. Not sure why it didn't cross my mind to strip it at the range. Put back in properly and now no issues during dry fire, and trigger feels a bit smoother.
 

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So I found a decent deal on a Polymer80 kit ($149/free shipping, includes frame parts kit), and am on the way now. Should be fun!
 

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LDD is the code at Brownells for $10 off $99 and free S&H. Drops your cost to $109.

Brownells also offers Polymer80 frames with a serial number for those who worry.

Tactical Toolbox is a good source for codes and he has some very informative videos on building Glocks.
 
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