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I know this has been addressed ad-nauseum, but I've truly found a permanent and free solution to the trigger click/hitch. As many of you know, it comes from the little hook on back of the safety blade not quite clearing the trigger completely when pressed. I simply Dremeled off about a 1/16" or so from the back of the hook, using a diamond bit. Complete clearance every time and the safety blade still works.
 

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My zip-tie, hair dryer trick worked for me; but if the click/hitch ever comes back, I may try shaving down the hook.
Thanks Gordon11!
 

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My zip-tie, hair dryer trick worked for me; but if the click/hitch ever comes back, I may try shaving down the hook.
Thanks Gordon11!
I was thinking that maybe the heat melts/blunts the end of the hook.
 
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I suppose taking down the hook with a dremel required a full disassembly. I'm not willing to do that. I tried the heat gun thing, but it didn't work. How do you know how much heat to apply? Like the G2 were it not for this issue.

Happy that the G3 doesn't have the same problem.
 

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I suppose taking down the hook with a dremel required a full disassembly. I'm not willing to do that. I tried the heat gun thing, but it didn't work. How do you know how much heat to apply? Like the G2 were it not for this issue.

Happy that the G3 doesn't have the same problem.
With the blade secured back with a twist tie, heat both sides of the frame in the area of the trigger group. Release the blade and try the trigger...I have done it a few times and have much improvement.
 

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I was thinking that maybe the heat melts/blunts the end of the hook.
I doubt that it melts anything; I don't apply that much heat.
Remember, I'm using a hair dryer, not a paint remover.
Instead I think it establishes a new norm setting for the tension spring.
I try to direct the heat down into grip and up into the trigger.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Out West, I didn't disassemble. I turned it upside down and dremeled at a slight angle. I did have the bit as far out as it could go and still lock in.
 
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To clarify, or to muddy the waters with a 0600 question.....
Removal of the trigger safety mechanism with a Keep Tinkering trigger solves this completely by removing the trigger safety mechanism; the source of the hitch to begin with?
 

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To clarify, or to muddy the waters with a 0600 question.....
Removal of the trigger safety mechanism with a Keep Tinkering trigger solves this completely by removing the trigger safety mechanism; the source of the hitch to begin with?
\

That is what I have heard, from him and others. The initial design also made it a DAO only pistol and he has said that it maintains it's drop safe condition, which was the initial reason why Taurus came up with the trigger safety design, as Keep Tinkering has stated that his trigger is too light to fall prey to a static AD/ND if the pistol is dropped on a hard surface butt first.

Personally I am not interested in it due to potential liability issues.
 
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To clarify, or to muddy the waters with a 0600 question.....
Removal of the trigger safety mechanism with a Keep Tinkering trigger solves this completely by removing the trigger safety mechanism; the source of the hitch to begin with?
did you retain the second strike capability with that set up?

I noticed that the click isn't there when in second strike. Can anyone explain this? It might help me figure out how to get rid of the annoying click.
 

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Out West, I didn't disassemble. I turned it upside down and dremeled at a slight angle. I did have the bit as far out as it could go and still lock in.
Wish I had thought of that! I used a dimond file. It took a while.
 

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Mine has the small click to it, but I don't give a damn...I just keep shooting it.
 

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To clarify, or to muddy the waters with a 0600 question.....
Removal of the trigger safety mechanism with a Keep Tinkering trigger solves this completely by removing the trigger safety mechanism; the source of the hitch to begin with?
Yes.

did you retain the second strike capability with that set up?

I noticed that the click isn't there when in second strike. Can anyone explain this? It might help me figure out how to get rid of the annoying click.
Yes, you can get SA/DA style triggers without a trigger safety.

The stock trigger safety is a metal hook on the backside with a butt connection to the nylon blade and nylon leg that acts as a spring on the front side. The nylon spring/leg is what rocks the safety blade forward and the metal hook it is attached to down so it hooks the back side of the trigger bar and keeps the trigger from being depressed until you fully compress the nylon leg.

What is happening when you get the click is that the metal hook isnt lifting high enough to fully clear the trigger bar before the trigger moves back past where the safety should stop the trigger. The whole thing is a delicate balancing act between the metal trigger spring and the nylon spring leg.

If the nylon spring leg is too stiff, it will catch every time, if the nylon spring leg is too weak, it wont wont be able to consistantly position the safety hook. What makes the situation worse is that nylon changes quite a bit with temp changes, a trigger that always works perfectly in 70 degree weather may suddenly start grabbing in 30-40 degree weather when the nylon spring leg stiffens up.

Honestly, if I had some reason to keep the trigger safety personally and the click was my biggest concern, I would make myself a heavy duty trigger spring, 0.031-0.033" music wire might work if you could fit it into the stock trigger spring pocket (stock is 0.29" wire). That would put the bias more towards the trigger spring, so the hook would lift up faster in relation to how fast the trigger shoe was moving back. This is why it works better in Restrike/DA mode, because the added weight of the striker spring pushing the trigger shoe forward means the trigger safety hook lifts faster in relation to how fast the trigger shoe was moving back.

However all that isnt the main issue for me. The biggest issue for me is that the metal from the hook doesnt go all the way down to the trigger blade in the front. That nylon blade you press against isnt nylon wrapped steel, it is just nylon connected to steel via a butt joint, and that to me is just a terrible plan.
 

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@ Czechbkr, 777Driver and gordon11 - thanks for all the great inputs. I'm trying the heat treatment again. I'll try the Dremel solution if no success with heat.

BTW, on my G2C I've noticed the catch is most likely on the first one or two trigger pulls after the gun has been setting for a while. Usually when firing at the range, after those first pulls, the problem either lessens or goes away. Just don't want that condition if I ever have to draw the pistol when carrying.
 

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@ Czechbkr, 777Driver and gordon11 - thanks for all the great inputs. I'm trying the heat treatment again. I'll try the Dremel solution if no success with heat.

BTW, on my G2C I've noticed the catch is most likely on the first one or two trigger pulls after the gun has been setting for a while. Usually when firing at the range, after those first pulls, the problem either lessens or goes away. Just don't want that condition if I ever have to draw the pistol when carrying.
I did use it multiple times before I got it to where it wasn't noticeable. In a self defense situation, I doubt the hitch, if not corrected at all, would be noticed with the adrenaline pumping.
 
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I would buy an aluminum trigger like that.
 
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