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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Lately, I've started having an "odd" problem, that just doesn't make sense to me.

Before that, history:
Extractor, Tigger Bar, Trigger Safety and Trigger Spring replaced by Taurus @ 5200 rounds
Sear, Sear Spring and Firing Pin replaced by Taurus @ 5700 rounds

Now at 6700 rounds

At the range, the first 30-50 rounds run "normal"
Following that though, I get an intermittent DA trigger in mid-magazine
This is NOT a DA because of a failure to fire, this is DA after the slide has cycled and ejected the casing

Questions:
1) Is this likely a sear / firing pin (adjustment or mismatch) problem, or
2) Is this possibly related to a weak Recoil Spring Assembly

Any thoughts welcome
I'm going to install a new RSA and try to rule it out, but I threw it into the mix, because it IS a consumable, especially with my round count
 

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Sounds like a sear problem.

Because it happens after a good amount of shooting, I'd try cleaning everything really well. Scrub it with a toothbrush.

How does your striker look, any wear?

Hate to say it, but it may need another trip back to the mothership.
 

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One of the little things that's very overlooked at cleaning and is a big safety factor on a striker fired pistol is the striker block
It's a part that holds the striker until the trigger is in motion , whenever I R&R one it's always full of crud .
Remove your slide and hold it beside the frame just as if it were installed , look on the trigger bar for a hump that pushes a round knob up to release the striker it might even be wore out for lack of lube
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I can pop the striker block plunger out with a quick pop of the extractor (I think).
I honestly cannot imagine how the striker plunger would prevent it from resetting... unless it comes down to a pure timing issue.
There is a lot of moving parts inside there in a fraction of a second.
More to learn.
 

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Yes it is about timing

And a tinny spring that is EASY TO LOSE

Push down in the small behind the block --that releases the extractor and watch out cause
springs are going to fly
Do inside a big clear plastic bag
 

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You might try spraying some brake cleaner and pushing up and down on the block ( a lot ) to see if it might help clean it up , it is a PITA
 

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I would check the striker channel and the sleeve and check the sear and sear spring to make sure the spring is raising the sear up so the striker can catch on it properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hey, I am also wondering if this is a reset problem.
I really don't know much about the "magic" that occurs with the trigger bar and linkage and all the craziness that happens in a fraction of a second.

Q: On a G2c, will a failure to reset result in a DA trigger (as if it was a light primer strike)

or....

Q: On a G2c, will a failure for the striker to precook when the slide cycles, result in a failure to reset for SA?
 

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It sounds to me like it's sometimes missing the single-action sear. It's the furthest sear back and has a fully sprung striker. That doesn't require much rearward slide motion, but perhaps its 'sticking' downward due to grime?

I'm tired and not explaining my thoughts very well, so I'm hoping somebody can make sense of that. Anyway,

I'd personally brake cleaner the primary sear and its spring/rocker plate (I don't recall that pieces' name) to be damn sure it couldn't possible stick or slowly move back up into place upon slide reset.

I suppose another possibility is that the disconnector bump part of the trigger bar is worn. Badly. But you did say they replaced it.

Sounds to me like you've certainly gotten your money's worth w/ nearly 6k rounds down it. I've got about 1500 less than you, amd mine's still shooting fine (vintage 2015 G2).
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I did a thorough clean, including Hoppe’s cleaner and Brake Clean + compressed air in a can (I stole it from my computer schtuff).

I pulled the extractor, firing pin safety plunger and striker assy. Cleaned all and reassembled (that extractor plunger is a BUGGER to get retracted and in the right position - definitely comes apart easier than going together!!!).

Repeated process, with no disassembly, on the frame. The Sear and action are clean. I will not say squeaky clean because that would be bad. But... the action, trigger bar, etc. are bone dry. Should there be oil on specific components? The manual is quite vague.

Thanks for all your recommendations to this point.
 

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Does it make a difference if you are putting pressure to either the left or the right on the trigger when pulling it?

Are you right or left handed? If right handed, try using it left handed and see if the issue occurs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Does it make a difference if you are putting pressure to either the left or the right on the trigger when pulling it?

Are you right or left handed? If right handed, try using it left handed and see if the issue occurs.
Thanks for the input Mister KeepTinkering : )

I am right handed. I have been participating in some "outlaw" IDPA clinics at a local range, and was encouraged to do more shooting with my left hand. This year, I switched my holster to the left side and I'm running my Canik Elite on the left side (mag release moved to accommodate a left thumb). I've also been working on the Winchester Course of Fire for the NRA quals, and I do that with the G2c. I installed Truglo Tritium Plus (courtesy of Al Lorenz), and had to verify the drift adjustment with right and left hand driving the pistol. It was during much of that verification that I noticed the problem with the SA DA problem.

In answer to your question, it happens 2 handed Left and Right, and I cannot recall it happening at all running it 1 handed with either the Left or Right.

I can honestly say that I think I am "pulling" the trigger safety straight back. It used to have a "hitch", but it's fairly worn in now and it's relatively smooth.

IF I PUSH THE TRIGGER WITH POOR PLACEMEMENT, it will indeed "bind up" and act like all the bad reviews you see on YouTube.
 

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Chances are very good that your issue is some combination of a weak trigger spring and friction on that trigger bar that isnt allowing it to pop back up quickly enough when the slide cycles.

The trigger spring is the only thing that supplies tension to the rear of the trigger bar, and in my opinion the trigger springs Taurus uses are barely sufficient for the task. The tension on the rear of that trigger bar controls the whole interaction between the rear (primary/SA) sear and the trigger, so if that trigger bar isnt popping back up quickly and firmly, you can have all sorts of reset issues along with a much less audible/tactile reset.

Excess friction can be caused by dirt in there, it could be left over casting flash on the front trigger frame box the trigger bar is rubbing against, inward curing on the edges of the trigger bar digging into the front frame box, or even the poly frame getting pinched or bowing in a bit along the length of that trigger bar.

Chances are that your gun is barely working correctly when cold, and as things warm up and expand the friction increases to the point that the trigger spring cant manage.



The reason I asked about about side to side pressure and what hand you shoot with is not due to the trigger safety locking up, which can happen as well, but sometimes the sear end of the trigger bars on these guns is not exactly correct and needs to be slightly tweaked up or down to be fixed.

This can present as several different issues with even minimal leftward pressure on the trigger (which often happens when firing the gun right handed), or in some extreme cases, with no leftward pressure on the trigger. Sometimes this can be the gun failing to fire at all, or completely failing to reset when it does fire, or the striker releasing from the SA sear and landing on the DA sear, either to stay on the DA sear and drop the gun into DA, or just hitting the DA sear and slipping off and slowing down the striker, making a somewhat odd noise and leading to light primer strikes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Light primer strikes...
Yes, I've had more of those as well -- I thought it was a byproduct of AmmoGeddon -- and as you said, it is usually when it has gone into DA instead of SA. Usually it goes bang on the 2nd strike, but I'm starting to collect rounds that won't fire after several strikes on the range. When I get a magazine full, I'll see if they run in my Canik : )

Regarding the trigger spring, is this something for a LGS, or should it go back to Taurus? I've had good response times with the 2 previous visits (prior to Corona), but I've also had to pay shipping both times. So if it's a choice of shipping or repair by a LGS... why not keep it local right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Another piece of information for the mystery:

I was dry firing today and the SA / DA was problematic. Then I tried all kinds of dumb things that were totally non-repeatable.
What IS repeatable is the results with different starting points:
1) Right handed -- Pull trigger to break / release trigger / manually cycle slide --> SA
2) Right handed -- Pull trigger to break / hold trigger at wall / manually cycle slide --> DA
3) Left handed -- Pull trigger to break / release trigger / manually cycle slide --> SA
4) Left handed -- Pull trigger to break / hold trigger at wall / manually cycle slide --> SA

So, when dry firing, right handed, holding trigger after break and cycling the slide results in no reset + DA every time.

What am I missing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for the video.
It helped me understand the light primer strikes (or opportunity for it to happen).

I have not had an opportunity to pull the action from the frame (it will be the first time).
When I do, I'll let you know the results.
I'm also going to try to get you some images of the alignment between the DA sear and the SA sear.

One thing that perplexes me a bit involves the timing sequence.
With the slide removed, when I pull the trigger back to the wall, I watch the SA sear drop.
If I push on the disconnector slightly, it doesn't always do anything, but if I hold it there and let the trigger move forward just a bit, the sear pops back up.
I understand it popping up so that it can catch the striker as the slide cycles back, but it seems like it should pop back up without me having to release the trigger slightly.

Maybe that's the difference between me moving it in a controlled sequence with no load bearing on the mechanical components, and the actual movement when the gun is fired... I'm not sure.

Your knowledge and willingness to share your time is a great assistance.
 

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I said earlier I thought it was the trigger spring, but with the further info you have provided I no longer think that.

If I push on the disconnector slightly, it doesn't always do anything, but if I hold it there and let the trigger move forward just a bit, the sear pops back up.
I understand it popping up so that it can catch the striker as the slide cycles back, but it seems like it should pop back up without me having to release the trigger slightly.
When you pull the trigger back and push down in the disconnector, the sear should pop back up, if it isnt, you are getting closer to your issue.

Does pushing down on the disconnector to release the sear work better when when you are pulling the trigger back and to the right, and fail to work when you are pulling it back and to the left?


This video starting about 6 minutes in is where I remove the rear sear assembly (the 2 rear frame pins have already been removed), you dont have to worry about removing the front frame pin or front frame / trigger box for your issue, just the rear cage. Try not to drop the safety ball or the disconnector, but if you loose the ball it is just a 2.5mm steel ball.

 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Status Following Work - I took the trigger and rear sear assembly out. Thorough inspection for excessive wear, build up, debris or binding. There was OEM grease under the rear sear in the frame that was a bit chunky.

I tried to make sure of correct alignment of the top edge of the DA sear with respect to the top of the SA sear (AND did some polishing of the top edge of the trigger bar where the disconnector rides (just to take out scratches). Then I put it back together.

The plastic button on the take down piece is a BUGGER when the punch slips off!!!

I put it back in the frame, and checked the operation of the sear when the disconnector is pushed down. It now makes sense the way it works, because the sear pops up without moving the trigger off the back wall.

Dry fire with the slide in place, dry firing with either hand resulted in proper SA reset.

Now I need to take it to the range.

Thanks to the wisdom I have gotten here : )
 
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