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Interested in picking up a G2C. However, the trigger hitch issues is bothersome. If I purchase online, I can save at least $50 over any local gun store. But, I can't test the trigger unless I purchase locally. Yeah, I know we're only talking $50 bucks, but if I'm buying budget, I want to get the best deal I can get.:)
 

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It's not really a big issue, just a little irritating. People have used different remedies such as heat. You can, and probably should, replace the trigger with a Keep tinkering trigger. I just put a Galloway trigger in, got rid of the hitch, but if I have it to do over, I'd get a Keep Tinkering trigger.
 

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Don't let it bother you,I tried three when I i purchased my last one,they all had it.The one i bought mostly fixed itself after a while.I have a pt-111g2 that never had it,a pt-111g2that had it bad but mostly went away,same for my g2c.I think design could have been better but I really like all 3.
 

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If it was a super new, like new untested design I'd worry. As stated above there were fixes to try out before diving in on a trigger swap. I didn't want to take multiple steps and take the gun apart a bunch of times and went Keep Tinkering SAO slight curve. If after I recover from buying 4 pistils this month and the G2C SS goes on sale again for under $200 locally I'd shoot it a bunch then go same mod list but go straight skeletal no safety.
 

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My G2C has the hitch in the SA take up. As I shoot it more, the hitch becomes less noticeable and less annoying.

I've found that pulling the trigger straight back, using the center of the pad on my finger, does away with the hitch.

It's the only thing that I've found about the G2C that I don't like. It's not a major problem, but it's one that should not be there at all.

As far as saving $50 by making your purchase online..... "You pays your money and you takes your chances". :)
 

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I find that most online gun purchases need to EXCEED $50 because you will probably spend $25 in shipping, and $25 for an FFL transfer fee. BTW, That FFL transfer fee can be as much as $100 or more in some states (like Californistan).
 

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As others have said, finger placement is key and minimizes the hitch. If you use the first joint you will more than likely have a hitch. Use the pad.
 
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Eh I get a Gen 1. No Hitch mmmmmmmmmmm...Just my thoughts
 

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I find that most online gun purchases need to EXCEED $50 because you will probably spend $25 in shipping, and $25 for an FFL transfer fee. BTW, That FFL transfer fee can be as much as $100 or more in some states (like Californistan).
Yeah I was crying about the $60 the LGS was asking for before exclusively using Gander. $100 is bad especially when I know a guy who got a 10 round S&W SD9VE for $600 out the door there. Some guns I won over and some I ended up paying more after they decided to have a Black Friday sale on that same gun. Only positive on that was the SR22 came threaded for a silencer where none in stock were threaded.
 

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Here's a message I posted a while back:

I got my first PT-111 G2 in November 2015, and really liked it! Feels good, looks good, a great manual safety, and has really good capacity for a small carry weapon. The only thing I didn't like about it was that it had a distinctive “click” as I pulled the
trigger back in single-action mode before I reached the break. The "click" that I'm talking about isn't so much heard, as that it is felt in your finger. I thought perhaps this was normal for this gun, thinking that the trigger had to move past some linkage in the area where it would engage the striker in the “double-action/second-strike” mode.

Friends that tried it sometimes thought that it miss-fired when it “clicked” without firing. I had to tell them to keep pulling. You could even feel the click when the gun was broken down, and you pulled the trigger on the grip alone.

I still liked the gun though. So much so, that I ordered another one in February 2016. I get the new one, and guess what.....No Click! I then realized that there's something wrong with my first PT-111.

After chatting with other members on this forum, I suspect that the problem is with the trigger safety-blade. Apparently the spring tension on the safety-blades of some PT-111's is inconsistent with others, causing the blade to resist retraction, and the safety mechanism to "rub" when it does retract, resulting in a "click".

Sliverbullit said: “It's the trigger safety. Turn it upside down, and watch as you pull the trigger. Bet you will see the hook on the safety barely catch the edge of the trigger. I filed the edge of the hook, and it is 90 percent better.” You can search for Silverbullit's “Fix for trigger click or catch” thread on this forum.

Ledbeter36said: Read my post - “Observationson pt111g2 after complete disassembly”. I point out some things you can do, and filing is a good fix.”

Before I did a full disassembly as Ledbeter36 recommended, I wanted to try something less drastic, so here's what I did. I tied back the trigger safety-blade with a small zip-tie, then heated the grip, inside and out, with a hair-dryer and let it set a couple hours. I did this several times. Now my "click" is barely noticeable. I think a few more applications and my “click” will be gone completely.

There seems to be an even bigger problem with a small percentage of PT-111's (approx 5%). Some people complain about the trigger being “extremely” hard to pull. Some have even broken off the trigger safety-blade completely. I wonder if the broken safety-blades that some people are experiencing is caused by blades with even stronger spring tension than mine, preventing the safety mechanism from retracting at all. As the shooter pulls harder on the trigger, the blade breaks off. If that happens all you can do is send it back to the factory for repair.


Try my hair-dryer trick and see if that helps.
If not, you can try Silverbullit's or Ledbeter36's recommendation.
Good Luck!
 

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Here's a message I posted a while back:

I got my first PT-111 G2 in November 2015, and really liked it! Feels good, looks good, a great manual safety, and has really good capacity for a small carry weapon. The only thing I didn't like about it was that it had a distinctive “click” as I pulled the
trigger back in single-action mode before I reached the break. The "click" that I'm talking about isn't so much heard, as that it is felt in your finger. I thought perhaps this was normal for this gun, thinking that the trigger had to move past some linkage in the area where it would engage the striker in the “double-action/second-strike” mode.

Friends that tried it sometimes thought that it miss-fired when it “clicked” without firing. I had to tell them to keep pulling. You could even feel the click when the gun was broken down, and you pulled the trigger on the grip alone.

I still liked the gun though. So much so, that I ordered another one in February 2016. I get the new one, and guess what.....No Click! I then realized that there's something wrong with my first PT-111.

After chatting with other members on this forum, I suspect that the problem is with the trigger safety-blade. Apparently the spring tension on the safety-blades of some PT-111's is inconsistent with others, causing the blade to resist retraction, and the safety mechanism to "rub" when it does retract, resulting in a "click".

Sliverbullit said: “It's the trigger safety. Turn it upside down, and watch as you pull the trigger. Bet you will see the hook on the safety barely catch the edge of the trigger. I filed the edge of the hook, and it is 90 percent better.” You can search for Silverbullit's “Fix for trigger click or catch” thread on this forum.

Ledbeter36said: Read my post - “Observationson pt111g2 after complete disassembly”. I point out some things you can do, and filing is a good fix.”

Before I did a full disassembly as Ledbeter36 recommended, I wanted to try something less drastic, so here's what I did. I tied back the trigger safety-blade with a small zip-tie, then heated the grip, inside and out, with a hair-dryer and let it set a couple hours. I did this several times. Now my "click" is barely noticeable. I think a few more applications and my “click” will be gone completely.

There seems to be an even bigger problem with a small percentage of PT-111's (approx 5%). Some people complain about the trigger being “extremely” hard to pull. Some have even broken off the trigger safety-blade completely. I wonder if the broken safety-blades that some people are experiencing is caused by blades with even stronger spring tension than mine, preventing the safety mechanism from retracting at all. As the shooter pulls harder on the trigger, the blade breaks off. If that happens all you can do is send it back to the factory for repair.


Try my hair-dryer trick and see if that helps.
If not, you can try Silverbullit's or Ledbeter36's recommendation.
Good Luck!
Yep, I was in the super hard at times stage and selling it off stage just before getting a new trigger.
 

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Here's a message I posted a while back:

I got my first PT-111 G2 in November 2015, and really liked it! Feels good, looks good, a great manual safety, and has really good capacity for a small carry weapon. The only thing I didn't like about it was that it had a distinctive “click” as I pulled the
trigger back in single-action mode before I reached the break. The "click" that I'm talking about isn't so much heard, as that it is felt in your finger. I thought perhaps this was normal for this gun, thinking that the trigger had to move past some linkage in the area where it would engage the striker in the “double-action/second-strike” mode.

Friends that tried it sometimes thought that it miss-fired when it “clicked” without firing. I had to tell them to keep pulling. You could even feel the click when the gun was broken down, and you pulled the trigger on the grip alone.

I still liked the gun though. So much so, that I ordered another one in February 2016. I get the new one, and guess what.....No Click! I then realized that there's something wrong with my first PT-111.

After chatting with other members on this forum, I suspect that the problem is with the trigger safety-blade. Apparently the spring tension on the safety-blades of some PT-111's is inconsistent with others, causing the blade to resist retraction, and the safety mechanism to "rub" when it does retract, resulting in a "click".

Sliverbullit said: “It's the trigger safety. Turn it upside down, and watch as you pull the trigger. Bet you will see the hook on the safety barely catch the edge of the trigger. I filed the edge of the hook, and it is 90 percent better.” You can search for Silverbullit's “Fix for trigger click or catch” thread on this forum.

Ledbeter36said: Read my post - “Observationson pt111g2 after complete disassembly”. I point out some things you can do, and filing is a good fix.”

Before I did a full disassembly as Ledbeter36 recommended, I wanted to try something less drastic, so here's what I did. I tied back the trigger safety-blade with a small zip-tie, then heated the grip, inside and out, with a hair-dryer and let it set a couple hours. I did this several times. Now my "click" is barely noticeable. I think a few more applications and my “click” will be gone completely.

There seems to be an even bigger problem with a small percentage of PT-111's (approx 5%). Some people complain about the trigger being “extremely” hard to pull. Some have even broken off the trigger safety-blade completely. I wonder if the broken safety-blades that some people are experiencing is caused by blades with even stronger spring tension than mine, preventing the safety mechanism from retracting at all. As the shooter pulls harder on the trigger, the blade breaks off. If that happens all you can do is send it back to the factory for repair.


Try my hair-dryer trick and see if that helps.
If not, you can try Silverbullit's or Ledbeter36's recommendation.
Good Luck!
I used a heat gun and it has worked for me. Strangely enough it has reoccurred to a small extent, but not enough to make me want to spend more money and do surgery on my pistol. I may heat it up again and I use a wire twister tie to make it easy to bind and release it.
 
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