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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I decided to have a go at a trigger job on a 1911. I took the sear and hammer and touched up the engagement surfaces with 400, 800, and 1200 grit sandpaper backed up be a steel straight bar, and then buffed them by hand on a piece of cloth with jewelers rouge. Should finish buffing the rest of the internals and have it back together in a couple days. Trigger pull was about six pounds and kind of gritty feeling, I will post the results. I was too chicken to change the engagement angles so I am not sure how much improvement I will see.
 

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Sounds adventurous. What are you expecting this to accomplish?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sounds adventurous. What are you expecting this to accomplish?
Hopefully the smoother surfaces will result in a lighter smoother trigger pull. I would like to get it down to 4# or a little less.
 

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Without starting from an awful pull, can polishing change the pull weight that much? I'm sure you'll make the trigger cleaner and smoother, but I'll be interested to hear if the pull weight changes much. Do you have a pull gauge?
 

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Polishing will help some, but won't reduce trigger pull 2#. You need to check sear to hammer hook engagement, stone the hooks down to .020 and square them up. I like to stone sear secondary angle a little negative that with lighten engagement. All of that still won't drop trigger pull a whole lot, will make for a clean crisp trigger. To lighten trigger pull you need to tweak sear spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Without starting from an awful pull, can polishing change the pull weight that much? I'm sure you'll make the trigger cleaner and smoother, but I'll be interested to hear if the pull weight changes much. Do you have a pull gauge?
Yes, I have a Lyman gauge. I am also getting a different spring from Stugots a Cylinder and slide reduced weight number.
 

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You can actually lighten up both the sear and disconnector fingers of the "sear" spring. Just be cool w/ it. I'd do it in baby steps but do make progress with them; just cautiously. You can also polish the trigger bow and cleanup/"polish" the trigger bow channels. They make a stone for the channels however you can accomplish same with a correctly cut piece of metal or popsicle stick and fine grit sandpaper. On second thought, don't do the disconnector finger. Just a tad too much can be problematic. But you can polish it. It all adds up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Dropped the pull down to about 4 3/4# I may try tweaking the spring a bit. Pull is a lot cleaner, Have some pics as soon as my camera battery is charged.
 

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Yes, I have a Lyman gauge. I am also getting a different spring from Stugots a Cylinder and slide reduced weight number.
Are you referring to the reduced tension sear spring from Cylinder & Slide or is Stugots a Cylinder .......?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Are you referring to the reduced tension sear spring from Cylinder & Slide or is Stugots a Cylinder .......?
Hey, if you are going to criticize my punctuation, at least put a comma after the "slide" in your own:D Just ordered a reduced power mainspring as well. When I did the function check I put a nice divot in my ceiling, if the pencil had been sharp I am pretty sure it would have stuck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok, final update. Used a .38 super gold cup Colt hammerspring (13#), tweaked the sear spring a tiny bit and finally got the pull down to a smidgeon under 4#(ranges 3 3/4-4 1/8 on my gauge) I am pretty happy with the trigger now, it has a tiny bit of creep so I may revisit it later.
 
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Ok, final update. Used a .38 super gold cup Colt hammerspring (13#), tweaked the sear spring a tiny bit and finally got the pull down to a smidgeon under 4#(ranges 3 3/4-4 1/8 on my gauge) I am pretty happy with the trigger now, it has a tiny bit of creep so I may revisit it later.
Any parts that you can take from a 38 super 1911 and put in a 45 acp 1911 will certainly improve the gun!!!!--------------:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Couple pics, but sear engagement surface is hard to see. first pics 008.jpg first pics 007.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Any parts that you can take from a 38 super 1911 and put in a 45 acp 1911 will certainly improve the gun!!!!--------------:D
I was a little concerned about dropping the spring weight that far (stock is 21#) but I dropped a .40 S&W lead bullet down the barrel and fired it (bullet only, no case or primer) and it popped right out the end of the barrel with a healthy divot in it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·

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Looks like C & S , I have used their parts very good quality. Their sear is cut neutral, you can change the feel of the trigger by adjusting the secondary angle. Also if you have long pins check sear to hammer hook engagement by installing outside the pistol via long pins. Their sears are on the long side, so depending on hole locations in frame you may have to stone primary angle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Looks like C & S , I have used their parts very good quality. Their sear is cut neutral, you can change the feel of the trigger by adjusting the secondary angle. Also if you have long pins check sear to hammer hook engagement by installing outside the pistol via long pins. Their sears are on the long side, so depending on hole locations in frame you may have to stone primary angle.
These are the stock Para parts after I was done with them. I checked the Colt site and they do not list a weight for the spring I bought from Midway. Midway says 13# but Colt just says .38 Super and Gold Cup, no weight mentioned. The hammer and it's spring does absorb some of the recoil during firing, will a lighter mainspring have much effect on function? Need a heavier recoil spring?
 
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