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Who here has taken the slide down far enough to clean the channel. I was shocked at how much copper shards there were in there. It took 8-10 Q-tips to get them all out. It's nice and clean now though.
 

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My firing pin was binding badly in the channel, movement was very hard. I took a sanding cloth on a mandrel with 6oo grit and cleaned it up, nice free travel now. Also the guide pin above it was bent, it has been straightened now, everything moves very free now.

**Note**
There was never a problem with the firearm, always worked flawless thru 500+ rounds, I stumbled across it while disassembly for cleaning it. I find it surprising that I didn’t have a problem as hard and bound up as the firing pin was.
 

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That is rather surprising ... I would have exoected a complaint about light strikes from that one.

Mine was still moving freely, but I decided to clean it anyways. Glad I did now.
 

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I took mine apart, cleaned & polished everything I could reach. It was pretty nasty in there. I can say the trigger feels much better now. I am glad I took it apart, as now I know exactly how it all works. It was my first time at disassembling the slide on a semi-auto. I will also add that while cleaning, deburring, and polishing......I had to dis & reassemble it several times to get it just right. That tiny ball you have to keep on the spring for the safety key is quite tricky. I would not recommend doing this over carpet.....keep a magnet handy.
 

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Could it be cleaned with a good flushing with WD-40 or something? Air compressor?

Either way, that tells me these things will still work even if they are not clean as a brand new pistol.
 

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For 99% of the shooting population, there will not be a need to disassemble their slide. If it is ever warranted, you could pay a smith to do a nice job on it. I had a specific reason for tearing into mine.

I don't know how well compressed air or a can of wd-40 would do here. You could spray into the firing pin hole, but that would only get some of the outer diameter of the firing pin. There is a spring that goes into the firing pin (it is hollow) from the rear, so you wouldn't really get it clean. I don't see where it would hurt, but I hesitate to say it would be helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I don't think it would be helpful really. I think it would cause more harm than anything. Flooding the chanel wilth lubricant has proven to cause light strikes.
 

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its easy to take this apart and should be done at least every other practice. I rub the firing pin itself with a 2000 grits sand paper to smooth everything out and make it shiny............the 2000 grits is safe and will not remove metal to alter or modify the structure of the part. There is a firing pin return spring that is in the front tip of the firing pin.........this must be placed with the wide end towards the barrel or the narrow end towards the firing pin........after this is the firing pin and some firing pin have a small black metal that sits in the middle body of the firing pin..........a little grease is always best to hold this part in place. Then you place the firing pin spring in it to apply a little pressure to hold that small black rectangle part in place and slide it in.........then you place the capture firing pin rod in place and slide in the backstop. Then you can always place your other drop safety parts and springs back in place in the order in which you removed them. I lightly oil the firing pin itself, but not the tip.......only the body. then i place a little grease where the firing pin meet the trigger bar or sears.........this is where the trigger breaks. I think grease in this area does a better job.
 

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kashdaddy said:
its easy to take this apart and should be done at least every other practice.
I respectfully disagree with this. It is not stated as a part of the normal lubrication & cleaning of this pistol in the manual. I agree that is a good thing to do every once in a while or just to learn how the internals work, but it seems unneccesary as a normal routine.
 

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kingofwylietx said:
I respectfully disagree with this. It is not stated as a part of the normal lubrication & cleaning of this pistol in the manual. I agree that is a good thing to do every once in a while or just to learn how the internals work, but it seems unneccesary as a normal routine.
The reason that i say every other practice is because of what i personally see when i take mine down. I use a variety of ammo and i shoot about 100 rounds per practice session. I used to take mine down every time to check............then i see that it gets pretty messy at about 200 rounds. Of course the manual would not recommend this as it can become a liability since a spring can go missing or most people might not be technical or have the patient to do such a detailed cleaning. Then, you would have a bunch of people shipping their pistols back to get it fixed. Its your pistol and your choice and its only a recommendation by me as i personally see the amount of mess that can build up. Its stated that liability insurance is required on your auto, but full-coverage is always better :)
 

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iostorm said:
there is no return spring at the front end of the firing pin, it is at the rear of the firing pin.
I guess, I consider the front of the firing pin the part that strikes the primer...........if this is the part that you call the rear then, YES. There is a spring that is about 3-5 coils in length with a staggered design (fat end and smaller end).
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Mine had no spring inside the channel. It was on a pin at the rear of the pin, the little tab that rides on another shaft.

THIS hints at the spring being where you say it is. I also notice the sear and some other SA parts missing from the drawing. It could be a generation thing.
 

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The return spring on mine is on the tab that hangs down on the firing pin. That tab rides on a small shaft where the spring resides.

My MilPro is a 3rd gen.
 

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The firing pin return spring is part number 1.5 in the diagram. If you look at the diagram, its at the FRONT of the firing pin which is part number 1.6 in the diagram. Part number 1.7 is another spring which is the captive spring at the rear channel of the firing pin. Most do not know that there is a return spring (part 1.5) in the firing pin channel, because its not a spring that falls out when you remove the firing pin.........you may have to shake it out or use a Q-tip or a watch screw driver to remove it. It sits between the firing pin and the primer............right in between where the striking action takes place.
 

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Again there is not or was not one on my 3rd or 4th gen 145. mine was taken apart in a large glad bag and was inspected for the first time in that bag, there is no spring at that location.
 

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iostorm said:
Again there is not or was not one on my 3rd or 4th gen 145. mine was taken apart in a large glad bag and was inspected for the first time in that bag, there is no spring at that location.
Well, i am not sure if its a generation thing, but i know mine has one. If i press my firing pin in manually then this springs helps to throw it back out.......without this spring in place then i notice a sticking of the firing pin. I checked the diagram and it states that is a part there also. Maybe a call to taurus can confirm this. When i took my pistol apart for the very first time then i actually missed this spring and then as i went over everything in the diagram and inspected then i found it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I do not have a spring on mine. The return spring is showed in this picture.
 

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It must be related to the generation. Mine is a first generation, it has the spring as Kashdaddy suggests. They must have changed it along the way.
 
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