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Discussion Starter #1
The bluing is wearing off my carry weapon, so I'm thinking about getting it 'painted' with DiamonKote or something like that. What do you suggest?
 

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Norells or Duracote is good if they are done correctly. What is your carry weapon and is it real bluing or matte type finish?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It's the matte finish and it's a PT-111. I'm also thinking about having the slide on my PT-1911 re-finished.
 

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PT1911 looks great Blued or hard chromed.

The PT111 should be fine with something like Duracoat.
 

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How about redoing the lettering on a PT? Anyone try it? Guys over on the XD site are doing it to their XD's like crazy. My PT745 slide finish isn't bad but the lettering is hardly readable.
 

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What is the average cost to have one blued? I don't have a clue.
 

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i thought taurus will repaint it for a fee.i might be wrong.you might check there site.i think it was around 25.00 plus shipping.
 

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I'm about to "paint" my Kimber Pro Tac frame this weekend with http://www.lauerweaponry.com/ in a semi gloss black as the factory anodizing is practically jumping off the gun.

I've already received the standard kit which includes the paint (color of choice) hardener, degreaser, air brush kit and propellant plus a DVD with instructions all for $50+$12 for shipping.

If the coating is anything like the paint like substance on my S&W 1911 PD, then I know for a fact it's tough as nails. I'll post some pics of before and after as well as how it turned out(easy, hard etc...)
 

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Justice4all said:
I'm about to "paint" my Kimber Pro Tac frame this weekend with http://www.lauerweaponry.com/ in a semi gloss black as the factory anodizing is practically jumping off the gun.

I've already received the standard kit which includes the paint (color of choice) hardener, degreaser, air brush kit and propellant plus a DVD with instructions all for $50+$12 for shipping.

If the coating is anything like the paint like substance on my S&W 1911 PD, then I know for a fact it's tough as nails. I'll post some pics of before and after as well as how it turned out(easy, hard etc...)
Justice how did it turn out? I have a S&W 469 that is in need of a face lift too.
 

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thunderjohn said:
How about redoing the lettering on a PT? Anyone try it? Guys over on the XD site are doing it to their XD's like crazy.
Do you have a link to a company that can do re-lettering? I'd like to have DuraCoat done at some point then have the lettering redone. Thanks!
 

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Well, it's been over a week since I painted the frame of my Kimber. Very interesting stuff indeed. A note of caution: Don't think this stuff won't cause brain damage because it will! I've never gotten sick off of the fumes of anything before this. While I was spraying in my garage, it was not as well ventilated as it should have been for this particular paint/hardener. After the job I was ill for a couple of hours...

First off, if you are going this route, I would strongly recommend that you either get a cheap compressor from someplace like Harbor Freight or use a full size and use the adapter provided in the air brush kit. The can o compressed air would not seal properly with the hose adapter and provided no pressure. Thankfully I have a full size compressor that I connected to the air brush and adjusted the pressure to around 35 PSI. In the end, if you paint a couple of guns or whatever, it's probably money better spent as the cans are very expensive for what you get.

I concocted a stand for the frame out of an old cookie sheet and a plastic coated hanger. I then mixed the paint and hardener according to the directions and adjusted the air brush to what I felt was good coverage. Prior to playing with the gun, I made sure that the frame was cleaned with the supplied degreaser several times and I then heated the frame to around 200F to flash off any remainder. I didn't spray it while it was anywhere near that temp as it might have caused problems.

I then sprayed four coats of paint as it goes on very lightly indeed. I paused between each coat for approx a minute or two to allow the fumes to flash off.

Lastly, I placed the frame and stand in my oven after it had cooled to around 150 or so and let it set with the door propped open. The frame was warm to the touch, but not hot. I did this to accelerate the curing process as is spoken about in the directions.

One week since, the paint on the frame is pretty tough. I've tried to scratch it off with my fingernail and all it did was make a shiny spot. I've reassembled the gun and will take it out tomorrow and run fifty rounds through it. I will then detail strip and look for wear.

A couple of tips: Any surface imperfections will be quite noticeable even with multiple coats. Be sure to smooth the areas down and shoot more coats if you have scratches or dents. I had a few, which is why I painted the gun and they still show through, though not as noticeably.

Insure whatever you're painting has either an anodized, parkerized or roughed up finish. The only area that I need to redo is the safety, as I had polished the rear most half to keep from damaging my thumb joint and the paint is unable to stick with any sort of durability.

I will post some pics later.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well it's been a while. I ended up with a zebra polished/satin nickle plated slide. Yea, I did it myself, so it took a lot of trial and error. Kinda pimpy, but still pretty cool for a first try.
 

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Justice4All,
Thanks for the run down on how the stuff works. I've been contemplating doing the same to a couple of mine. Please post a follow up and pix.
 
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