Extractor Chipped

3461 Views 21 Replies 4 Participants Last post by dbeardslee, Feb 9, 2013

gnedinok

Discussion Starter · Jan 31, 2013

Last weekend I started experiencing extraction problems with my 24/7 Pro C DS. upon close inspection found that the extractor was chipped. I suspect some cheap ammo (steel casings) I bought for target practice. Anyone had problems with this? could it have been caused by the ammo. I am meticulous about care & cleaning. The gun is 2009 with 800 -1000 rounds at most. New extractor should be here in a week or so. Please advise. Thanks, Greg

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20361

· #2 · Jan 31, 2013 (Edited)

2

I had the same thing happen to my 24/7 Pro a couple months ago.
Didn't affect operation, I noticed it when broken down for cleaning.
I ordered 2 extractors and it took about 1 week.
Still have one spare.

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EDIT:
Make sure you compare the old extractor with the new one, mine were slightly different and I had to grind it to make it work.

Old on the left, new on the right.
I had to grind down the tab to match the old one.
The tab contacts the frame and it will not move if installed without grinding it down.

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gnedinok

Discussion Starter · #3 · Jan 31, 2013

GWK, Great pics, how old is your 24/7 & any idea about the steel ammo? Extra extractor whb a good idea. I did order the little springs that are part of the assembly and a new recoil spring assy. Thanks, G

20361

· #4 · Jan 31, 2013

The springs were out of stock when I ordered, so I skipped those, backorder would have delayed the parts.
I did order an extractor pin at the same time.
I have no idea how it got chipped unless it was caused by a misfeed, which happened a few times, or a bad eject (stovepipe).
My 24/7 was made in December 2010 and I bought it April 2, 2011, so 2 years old since purchase this April.
About 3000 rounds through it, that has been the only problem other than pilot error now and then.
I tried Tulammo once, did not like it, and can't reload it.
It fired OK but was kid of dirtier than other ammo.
Mostly I used Federal 115gr. FMJ and RWS 124gr. FMJ, but now it is exclusively Hornady 124gr. XTP JHP reloads with my saved brass.

gnedinok

Discussion Starter · #5 · Jan 31, 2013

Was the pin necessary? Did not order one but did think of it . . . after the fact.

20361

· #6 · Jan 31, 2013

Probably not, but I got one anyway, just in case.
I saved the old pin.

gnedinok

Discussion Starter · #7 · Feb 9, 2013

2

OK guys, got the extractor and not sure they sent the right one(see pic). New extractor is on the left.

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Can,t imagine this much difference. The loaded round indicator spring hits at a different angle
causing indicator to remain out and the extractor is inset into the slide. Any input would be appreciated.

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20361

· #8 · Feb 9, 2013

Looks like it is the wrong one, the circular indentation is where the loaded chamber spring goes.
Stand by, photo of mine coming up.

gnedinok

Discussion Starter · #9 · Feb 9, 2013

GWK, the spring goes on the other side, this is the bottom of extractor.

20361

· #10 · Feb 9, 2013

Here is my old on the left, new on the right.

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gnedinok

Discussion Starter · #11 · Feb 9, 2013

GWK, this is the bottom of the extractor, spring goes on the other side.

20361

· #12 · Feb 9, 2013 (Edited)

Flip it over and take another pic of the other side.
Does it look like this?

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dbeardslee

· #13 · Feb 9, 2013

It looks okay to me, from what I can see. What's important is the location of the pivot hole in relation to the stop block and claw, and they look pretty comparable. Course that's assuming that the LCI fits okay on the other side.

Extractor's can require some fitting, and I strongly recommend changing the pin after you've got the new one fitted. Repeatedly installing and removing that pin can cause the knurling to wear down and it can get loose that way, and you pretty much have to install and remove it multiple times for fitting. I had one pop on the range and my loaded chamber indicator, extractor, and the springs went flying.

There's some info in this thread that might help you - Maxine objects too much

gnedinok

Discussion Starter · #14 · Feb 9, 2013

This is a side view. the one in front is the new one. Note difference in height from this angle. LR indicator & spring fit onto extractor as they should, just seems to be too much difference in thickness.

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dbeardslee

· #15 · Feb 9, 2013

Once you get it installed, this is how you check your extractor tension. Too tight and the rounds won't be able to 'turn the corner' to the chamber, and too loose will result in erratic ejection or failure to eject. The spring on this type of ejector is what provides the tension, so what you really need to do is make sure the claw is sitting agains the recess near the case head (as opposed to the stop block being against the frame) when a cartridge is 'under' the extractor. You don't need much of a gap between the stop block and frame, so if you're adjusting the stop block go slow and test often. Once it's holding the correct tension, then you need to make sure the angled cut on the bottom inside edge of the extractor, and the back cut are sufficient to all cartridges to turn the corner.

20361

· #16 · Feb 9, 2013

3

More pics new extractor for my 24/7.

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If yours matches, I can send my spare.

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dbeardslee

· #17 · Feb 9, 2013

gnedinok said:
GWK, Great pics, how old is your 24/7 & any idea about the steel ammo? Extra extractor whb a good idea. I did order the little springs that are part of the assembly and a new recoil spring assy. Thanks, G

Looking at GWK's pic I would hazzard a guess that it was caused by either steel cased ammo or dropping a round into the chamber and letting the slide slam forward on it - which is a big no-no. Always load rounds into the chamber from a magazine. Reason I say that is the part that's broken off is the top part of the extractor. That part of the extractor is only in contact with case head when the casing is pulled from the chamber or if you let the slide slam forward on one. Reason I say is it could be caused by steel cased ammo is that steel doesn't expand and contract like brass does, and those steel casings can sometimes get stuck in the chamber. On a lot of guns it will rip the back of the case off, or the extractor can fail.

As the round is pulled from the chamber the barrel tips down and it drags the case head down the breech face. It's the lower part of the extractor that's actually providing the tension when the ejector chucks the casing out - which is when the spring and the tension really come into play. As such, when I'm checking extractor tension I do it more towards the bottom of the extractor.

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gnedinok

Discussion Starter · #18 · Feb 9, 2013

gwk1951 said:
Flip it over and take another pic of the other side.
Does it look like this?

View attachment 47495

Yep, just like it.

dbeardslee

· #19 · Feb 9, 2013

Looking at the parts this way isn't going to tell you much. The extractor indexes on the pivot hole and the stop block. It may even be an improvement with a little less material on the inside. Should be less sensitive to gunk under the extractor 'lever' that way. My advice is to put the pin through both extractors, and hold the stop blocks level with each other. Then check the difference on the inside edge of the claws. I'll bet you it's pretty darn close. Or just test fit it in the pistol and see what you've got.

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gnedinok

Discussion Starter · #20 · Feb 9, 2013

Ahh, sweet success! Ground down the stop block (3 times, just a bit at a time, & I color the surface to be ground with a sharpie for enhanced observation). Even though their seems to be more difference in the thickness of the new extractor than I would think there should be the gun worked flawlessly. 3 clips (13 rounds ea.) through, the last two one handed and not a single failure to extract. Still gonna contact Taurus on Monday about that difference. Thanks all, supper's ready. Till next time, G

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