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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This one wasn't in nearly as good shape but its also very early with both crosshatched top strap and grooved cylinder flutes....in nickle and, something I've not run across, snub nose/round butt.

Some parts differences include the main spring strain, length of mainspring and length of mainspring strut, shorter cylinder by about 1/10" over the similar longer barreled 80s/82s.

Lots of accumulated abuse on this one but the nickle and bore are fine so I got to work.

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Nickle is in good shape. Upon getting home and stripping it I noted its in pretty good condition internally with a few minor issues.

The hammer nose was sharpened to a point. I blunted it, it should still be long enough, if not I'll fit a new firing pin.

The left grip had broken and was epoxied back together and to the frame. Fortunately, the right grip was not epoxied in place. I'll fix that with a set of wood grips for a round butt Smith K frame when they arrive. Picked up a used pachmeyer checkered rosewood on amazoid for $11 (Regular 36 to 40 bucks) with free delivery so its cheep enough I can modify as needed for a fit.

Main spring was a heavy gauge coil that had been cut to fit. I replaced it with a Taurus Wolff 11 pounder trimmed to proper length.

Rebound spring was also aftermarket. A bit heavy so I installed a Taurus Wolff 10 pounder.
There is a bit of wobble in the cylinder and the notches are slightly battered. Shouldn't be an issue. Locks up tight enough and minimal end shake. So, it bears a shooting test tomorrow.

With luck, me thinks this'll be a perfect gun for bonking around with and to have in the truck.
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Had it out today. Shoots fine. Pretty much right on the sights with the 158g LSWCs. I noted that the slightly battered cylinder notches previously, and in fact, the cylinder did occasionally skip on past the cylinder stop and stop between rounds. It'll also need about a .002" cylinder shim for end shake but not right away. (Mostly because I have none and to get one, I'll have to buy 10 at $24 shipped....sucks.)

So, not having a new cylinder stop, I found there was enough meat on the top of the stop to allow some careful stoning. (not the hook that protrudes through the window in the frame to enter the cylinder notch, but the body of the stop inside the frame.)


Lowering the top of the cylinder stop body effectively allows the stop to move the hook up further through the frame window and deeper into the cylinder notch.

Happily, it was a 20 minute job and the gun can be very smartly cycled now and the cylinder doesn't skip past the lock. With normal usage, this should be a long term repair.

Its nice when you can get issues vetted with little effort.

Stoning is the pink area on the attached photo. Do not stone it so much that the trigger nose can't flip it down and out of the way any longer.

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
A pachmeyer plywood/rosewood colored grip for S&W K frame round butt was acquired for $12. At that price it came with a crack and some damage up top, but nothing is available for these first gen Taurus, so, I made do.

It took most of an afternoon, mostly waiting for epoxy to set, but got the grips inletted to a close fit on the Taurus grip frame and bedded the back strap and the locating pin hole in the grip.

Repaired the crack in the bottom back of the left panel and removed most of the upper flare as it was also cracked/split/had voids in the corners. I have a bit more epoxy build up to do on the upper left grips flare but that'll wait until the base sets up over night.

Not a perfect looking grip but a snug fit with a secure grip and it looks more better decent-er than the broken original plastic grips. In any event, its now a 5 footer where the original grips made it about a 50 footer.

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Finished up and duty ready. List of work accomplished.


Fit Pachmeyer SW K frame round butt grip to Taurus frame and convert grip to open back.

Install replacement cylinder bolt spring.

Install replacement main spring.

Install replacement rebound slide spring.

Recontour hammer nose from sharp point to blunt.

Refit cylinder bolt to cylinder notches to eliminate over run.

Clean and test fire.

$12 parts cost. Not bad.

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Having shot the gun both closed and open back wood grip, I really prefer the open back. My hands are not giant and have a bit of arthritis so a big grip is needed for retention and control but with the closed back and its square shape, it was too much of a good thing.

She runs great. With the cylinder bolt fitted so as to bottom out in the cylinder notch, much of the wobble is gone from the cylinder. And, it no longer over runs and stops between cylinders.

I put more than 250 rounds through the gun in a single session. Clean up was a job but she ran like a clock. So, I also bundled this one up in an OutBags nylon holster and tucked it away in the gun vault in the truck. I'll probably wind up carrying it a lot over the next few months as hunting season starts and I'm in the woods most every day.
 

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Having shot the gun both closed and open back wood grip, I really prefer the open back. My hands are not giant and have a bit of arthritis so a big grip is needed for retention and control but with the closed back and its square shape, it was too much of a good thing.

She runs great. With the cylinder bolt fitted so as to bottom out in the cylinder notch, much of the wobble is gone from the cylinder. And, it no longer over runs and stops between cylinders.

I put more than 250 rounds through the gun in a single session. Clean up was a job but she ran like a clock. So, I also bundled this one up in an OutBags nylon holster and tucked it away in the gun vault in the truck. I'll probably wind up carrying it a lot over the next few months as hunting season starts and I'm in the woods most every day.
Great review... I used to see your posts over on rugerforum.com. always intetesting...
 

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Your pictures make me yearn for the three inch blued Model 80 I had back in the early eighties. I wish I had kept hold of that one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
xtratoy,

I still check in there from time to time but not much on posting, the site is really wonkey and crashes or locks a lot and the photo hosting leaves a lot to be desired. I guess they are still using an ancient code format.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Your pictures make me yearn for the three inch blued Model 80 I had back in the early eighties. I wish I had kept hold of that one.

Here you go, looks to be in nice shape. Get a bid in and maybe relive your youth with the exact revolver you are talking about.

Gunbroker Auction number 910281856
 

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A pachmeyer plywood/rosewood colored grip for S&W K frame round butt was acquired for $12. At that price it came with a crack and some damage up top, but nothing is available for these first gen Taurus, so, I made do.

It took most of an afternoon, mostly waiting for epoxy to set, but got the grips inletted to a close fit on the Taurus grip frame and bedded the back strap and the locating pin hole in the grip.

Repaired the crack in the bottom back of the left panel and removed most of the upper flare as it was also cracked/split/had voids in the corners. I have a bit more epoxy build up to do on the upper left grips flare but that'll wait until the base sets up over night.

Not a perfect looking grip but a snug fit with a secure grip and it looks more better decent-er than the broken original plastic grips. In any event, its now a 5 footer where the original grips made it about a 50 footer.

View attachment 481445 View attachment 481446 View attachment 481447
Do you searched Vintage Gun Grips site for reproductions of original ones?
 
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