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The following are the only certified DuraCoat finishers in your state:

Hendrick Custom Firearms
www.hendrickcustomfirearms.com
Certified DuraCoat Finisher
104 Western Knoll Ct.
Cleves, OH 45002
Mike Hendrick
513-314-7675

Rick Kalich
Certified DuraCoat Finisher
11035 Vaughn Rd.
Hiram, OH 44234
330-274-2142

Ottawa Ordnance
Certified DuraCoat Finisher
Certified Expert Camo Finisher
13101 SR 15
Ottawa, OH 45875
Darrin Verhoff
419-523-4911 - Fax: 419-523-4922
Email: [email protected]

Practical Firearm Solutions (PFS)
www.practicalfirearmsolutions.com
Certified DuraCoat Finisher
1570 O'toole Dr.
Xenia, OH 45385
Travis Lemaster
937-372-3319
Email: [email protected]
 

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It depends on how comfortable you are with doing "light" handiman things. Duracoat is a pretty easy finish to work with. THE BIGGEST challenge is cleaning the air brush after the job... since it is an expoxy type, the hardner will set up quickly. I have seen from cheap model type air brushes for less than $5 each. If I were going to do a project again (I've done four so far) I'd just by a supply of those air brushes, and dispose of them after each use.

The two major steps in doing the duracoat is

(1) GET THE PROJECT CLEAN... the Duracoat folks sell a spray on degreasher. Wash the parts in a good degreasher, dry them thoroughly, spray them with the degreasher, dry them and spray again. Cleanliness is next to Godliness... you can't get anything to work if the finish doesn't stick.

(2) THIN LIGHT COATS... the only thing you really have to worry about is too much finish sprayed on and runs. I have a little commercial air blower/heater... a hand help hair dryer on sterioids. I warm the project before I start, spray and warm, spray and warm... light misting coats. It isn't a long process... I just have both units in my hands and keep them moving. The spraying usually doesn't take more than 5 minutes total.

(3) A GOOD LIGHT... OK... a third! A halogen painting lamp is a really nice addition... each ones from Walmart... bright enough for you to really see what you have painted, and what you haven't. Check it often to make sure you aren't either putting not enough finish... or too much... on parts of the gun.

Then just give it time. 24 hours to reassemble... and then about 4 weeks to just leave it to air cure. Don't get ansy to go shoot. Let it do it's thing and it works well.

I haven't used the stainless steel finish... however, I have used the H&K Black for a deep matte black... and the clear coat... to buff and polish parts to a stainless steel look and then coat them for preservation.

Good luck... this is NOT rocket science
 

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Cimarron said:
It depends on how comfortable you are with doing "light" handiman things. Duracoat is a pretty easy finish to work with. THE BIGGEST challenge is cleaning the air brush after the job... since it is an expoxy type, the hardner will set up quickly. I have seen from cheap model type air brushes for less than $5 each. If I were going to do a project again (I've done four so far) I'd just by a supply of those air brushes, and dispose of them after each use.

The two major steps in doing the duracoat is

(1) GET THE PROJECT CLEAN... the Duracoat folks sell a spray on degreasher. Wash the parts in a good degreasher, dry them thoroughly, spray them with the degreasher, dry them and spray again. Cleanliness is next to Godliness... you can't get anything to work if the finish doesn't stick.

(2) THIN LIGHT COATS... the only thing you really have to worry about is too much finish sprayed on and runs. I have a little commercial air blower/heater... a hand help hair dryer on sterioids. I warm the project before I start, spray and warm, spray and warm... light misting coats. It isn't a long process... I just have both units in my hands and keep them moving. The spraying usually doesn't take more than 5 minutes total.

(3) A GOOD LIGHT... OK... a third! A halogen painting lamp is a really nice addition... each ones from Walmart... bright enough for you to really see what you have painted, and what you haven't. Check it often to make sure you aren't either putting not enough finish... or too much... on parts of the gun.

Then just give it time. 24 hours to reassemble... and then about 4 weeks to just leave it to air cure. Don't get ansy to go shoot. Let it do it's thing and it works well.

I haven't used the stainless steel finish... however, I have used the H&K Black for a deep matte black... and the clear coat... to buff and polish parts to a stainless steel look and then coat them for preservation.

Good luck... this is NOT rocket science
I had my Colt Defender Duracoated by the Gun Smiths at BassPro, they kept it for 4 weeks and I let it air dry an additional 4 weeks. Noticed the coating coming off, so I took it back and they kept it 7 weeks this time and I let it air dry an additional 3 weeks. So far it's not chipping off like last time, but I do see strips of the old finish starting to come through. Short, of it I paid $100 and time wasted, I want to do my PT1911 myself so I can QA the project.
 

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If I am not mistaken, baking the Duracoat on the metal is much better than air drying.
 

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I just discovered my grip safety on my PT1911 is stainless steel. I removed the bluing, or whatever that coating is, in preparation of Parkerizing. Just an FYI, the blue on the gun was removed with about 1 oz of Birchwood Casey Bluing remover. It took about 2 minutes to remove all of the bluing off all of the parts as it is the thinnest finish I have ever seen on any gun. The first pass down the slide with a swab revealed clean metal.

Most of the parts took the Parkerizing well just like they should. The aftermarket Thumb safety (a MIM part) did not like the Parkerizing process and looks like crap.

I will DuraCoat the gun in a week or 2 as it seems the mixture of steel and stainless steel parts is not a good choice for Parkerizing, LOL.
 
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