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1911 shortened and radius slide stop pin technique Tutorial

When enhancing your 1911 with a countersink slide stop pin most people find that producing a perfect radius on the pins end is very difficult, but I have found a technique that simplifies the process.

You need to under stand that it is critical not to change the remaining diameter of the pin or frames shaft, also you don’t want to over heat the pin and change the tensile strength of the pin.

First remove the slide from the frame and slip the stop pin through the hole on the frame, with a sharpie marker shade all the protruding section of the pin, if you have a black pistol use a silver color sharpie.

Now take the pin out and on a grinding wheel start to grind the tip of the pin applying light pressure so as not to over heat the pin, as you start getting to the end of the marked portion check it with the frame, the idea hear is to leave the pin slightly longer then flush about 1/32” to 3/64” because you will need this extra material once you start to rough shape the radius on the grinding wheel, I would wrap a piece of masking tape about 3/16” below the end of the pin to assure that I don’t change any of the remaining diameter of the pin. Start rotating the pin around the grinding wheel in a continuous motion making sure not to grind where you’ve taped, when you have roughly radius the point of the pin you will end up with a slight point, which later on you will remove, that’s why you left the pin slightly longer to begin with.

Third you will need a 7/32” or 3/16” hex head electric screw driver tip and a small piece ¾” x ¾”of plumber’s emery cloth. Install the 7/32” or 3/16” driver tip to a hand held drill and place the piece of emery cloth on top of the driver and hold it down with your rough slide stop pin and run the drill at a high rpm while pushing the stop pin down into the driver, it works like an electric pencil sharpener and will produce a perfect polished radius and while applying pressure and pushing the stop pin down, will remove the extra length that was left slightly longer and pointed.

Now for cutting the countersink on the frame I installed 3/8" new drill bit and placed it on top of the frame hole and drilled at a slow rpm keep your drill straight and only go as deep as the weight of the bit just remove enough material to create a dimple which will be about 1/16" deep excluding the tip of the bit that will fall into the original frame hole about 1/16".

Now I thought about a ball cutter but I knew that if I used it there would be no way to keep it dead center using a hand drill and I thought about a counter sinker but was afraid that the pointed guide could ruin the original frame shaft, so for me a new 3/8" bit would keep it dead center with out even touching the frame shaft.

After I needed to smooth and polish the counter sink and what I used was the same piece of emery which I put across the hole I than installed 422 dremel polishing tip on my drill and pushed it in which contoured the dremel polisher to the dimple hole and at a high rpm polished the inside of the hole until it was perfect about 1 1/2 minutes.

Make sure you tape around the dimple if you have a black gun to minimize any small scratches. Use a small piece of emery so that it doesn't leave swirl marks on the frame mine left a bit of marks that I removed with emery cloth lightly polished along the frame since mine is stainless and it looked like new, I've attached some pictures of my 1911 along side Wilson Ultralight Carry pistol for comparison I would never countersink my frame if it was aluminum but the Ultralight is, the people at Wilson Combat told me that their engineers calculated that it would not compromise the structural integrity of the frame. :???:.


Cuba







Wilson Ultralight Carry
 
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I really like that look! Nice job.
 
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