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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have reviewed the picture thread on disassembling the Taurus revolver with respect to my Rossi revolver M335 (a J frame, 5 shot that I bought used). I will have some basic questions if no one gets too irritated. :) I opened it up recently to do some detail cleaning and inspection of the insides. I'm not familiar with revolvers, I have detail stripped my Glocks many times, though. First question is regarding the 3 screws that hold on the side plate. The one underneath the trigger is shown in the pictorial to be a spring loaded thing, but it is not on this revolver that I have. Actually, the screw looks the same as the other two (rightly or wrongly). What does the spring do in the Taurus revolver , maybe it's a feature that is just not on mine? Appreciate any responses. Also, if someone can tell me how to start a new paragraph when I'm typing, I can't figure that one out on this forum.
 

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Welcome to the forum odysseus! On the screws... on the older model Rossi's, Taurus's and Smith and Wesson's they did not use the spring loaded screw. You should however make sure the screws get back into the same holes. As the one screw is probably "fitted".

The one underneath the trigger fits into a grove in the crane shaft (tube) and holds the crane and cylinder in the frame of the gun.

The older screws without the spring and cap required fitting which required more man hours and in turn more money to produce. The newer spring cap setup eliminates the fitting step and saves money for the manufacturer.

My 1971 Smith and Wesson .357 does not have the spring while my sons 1992 Smith and Wesson .357 does use the spring cap deal. His 2009 Taurus model 65 uses the spring and cap as well.

Oh and how to make paragraphs.... just hit Enter twice at the end of your sentence!
 

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The screw you mention doubles as holding the sideplate on and maintaining the crane in the frame. with that screw removed and the cylinder opened the crane and cylinder can be withdrawn from the frame. On older Taurus and Rossi revolvers it was just a screw without the spring and plunger. Smith and Wesson revolvers also had the screw without the plunger. It's a good idea to to keep that screw seperate from the other and use it in the same hole when you reasemble as the length can vary. If you put the wrong screw in that hole and it is too long it may bind the crane and the cylinder won't swing out freely. The spring loaded plunger design was used to eliminate the need to hand fit the screw at the factory. If you already have the screws mixed up just be sure to check for binding when you reasemble. If it binds just switch the screws.
 
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Sorry about trampling on your post fredg. There were no other responces when I started typing.

Welcome to the forum odysseus! On the screws... on the older model Rossi's, Taurus's and Smith and Wesson's they did not use the spring loaded screw. You should however make sure the screws get back into the same holes. As the one screw is probably "fitted".

The one underneath the trigger fits into a grove in the crane shaft (tube) and holds the crane and cylinder in the frame of the gun.

The older screws without the spring and cap required fitting which required more man hours and in turn more money to produce. The newer spring cap setup eliminates the fitting step and saves money for the manufacturer.

My 1971 Smith and Wesson .357 does not have the spring while my sons 1992 Smith and Wesson .357 does use the spring cap deal. His 2009 Taurus model 65 uses the spring and cap as well.

Oh and how to make paragraphs.... just hit Enter twice at the end of your sentence!
 

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Sorry about trampling on your post fredg. There were no other responces when I started typing.
No worries RedDog! I'm just glad we both wrote pretty much the same thing! Sometimes this stuff is hard to explain without being there in person with the gun in hand. Your point on the binding and switching screws is a good one and one I didn't think about!

When trying to explain topics like this the more input the better! One guy may explain it just a little different that helps the guy with the problem out! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the responses, that eases my mind. I was careful to put the screws back in the hole I got them out of. It's nice to know that the one screw is "special". I couldn't see it just by casually looking. I still can't see how to move the cursor to the next line to add paragraphs. When I hit Enter, once or multiple times, nothing seems to happen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm using a computer, Internet Explorer 10, Windows 8. I don't have this issue on other forums that I use. There must be some setting(s) that are wrong somewhere for me. When I press [Enter] there is no response on the screen when I'm writing a reply.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Ok. I changed my Message Editor Interface to Standard Editor from the default Enhanced Interface.

Now, it seems that I can hit Enter and go to a new line. Somehow my PC didn't like the Enhanced Interface.

Problem solved, I think.

By the way, just curious, what is the reason that the directions to taking off the slide plate advise never to pry it off? Is that so you won't mess up one of the small parts underneath or something else?
 

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By the way, just curious, what is the reason that the directions to taking off the slide plate advise never to pry it off? Is that so you won't mess up one of the small parts underneath or something else?
It's because the side plate is fit with very tight tolerances and prying it can bend it ever so slightly that it will no longer fit flush, this will cause issues besides cosmetic as there are pins that fit into the side plate. If you have had it off you can see how tightly it fits. Note how the edges are nearly razor sharp in some places.
 
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