Wanting to replace the trigger and sear on my PT 1911 and have found that the sear pin is of a smaller diameter than the sear hole. The pin is approximately .105 in dia, and the sear is .110? Are there sears with smaller holes? The sear that came out of my pistol has a hole dia of .110, is this normal for Taurus?
Diameter sear hole
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Sear pin is supposed to be .110 +/- .002 the hole in the sear is supposed to be .111 +/- .002 why ream the sear hole? I would just reduce the pin dia. What is the dia. in the frame? You will find Taurus 1911's are not to print specs in a lot of areas, they are not the only manufacturer that thinks they know better and change the specs, that is why the quality aftermarket parts are oversized.
The hole in the frame is under sized, and so is the sear pin, the sear has the standard sized hole. To make the pistol more in line with the rest of the 1911 world, I want to use standard spec parts. With the under sizred pin, there is radial play between the sear and the pin, hard to get a decent trigger pull with this setup.
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LOL, welcome to the world of the 1911. Rule #1 of the 1911 is that there is no such thing as "drop in parts", plan on fitting everything.
You should be able to buy oversized pins from EGW. In fact they make most all of their parts oversized so that they can always be fitted to the 1911. At one time they researched all the available 1911 frames and found 14 differing sets of specs, they found differences even among different model under the same manufacturer, so the whole idea of parts fitting because they are MILSPEC is absurd. I have found the Taurus PT-1911 to be no better or worse than any other 1911 as far as staying close to JMB's original design.
Rule #2 of the 1911 (really any gun mods) is always modify the cheapest parts first, that way you don't do something like screw up a frame trying to fix a pin issue.
You should be able to buy oversized pins from EGW. In fact they make most all of their parts oversized so that they can always be fitted to the 1911. At one time they researched all the available 1911 frames and found 14 differing sets of specs, they found differences even among different model under the same manufacturer, so the whole idea of parts fitting because they are MILSPEC is absurd. I have found the Taurus PT-1911 to be no better or worse than any other 1911 as far as staying close to JMB's original design.
Rule #2 of the 1911 (really any gun mods) is always modify the cheapest parts first, that way you don't do something like screw up a frame trying to fix a pin issue.
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If you are going to replace the sear I would also replace the hammer. Although I am willing to bet the sear hole is not only under sized it is also in the wrong location. The new sear you want, you will most likely have to remove a lot of material, Taurus sears are the shortest I have come across so far, put one in a sear jig and can't even remove any material. My PT 1911 the hammer hooks only varied .006 in height LOL. I wouldn't waste money on parts, I would clean up the crappy factory parts and you can achieve a decent trigger.
OSO, you are right on the money about the crapy parts, but, it's my learning experience pistol. The radial play between the sear and sear pin effect every trigger pull, it came with a 9# trigger, got it down to approx 4.5# with the lousy MIM parts and incorrect sear pin, but have two other pistols that are set to 2.5#, and want to get close. This may be an impossibility, but will try anyway.
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A 1911 armorer for the US Olympic Team once told me that under 3# in a 1911 trigger is a disaster waiting to happen.
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everybody has wants , likes ,dislikes and opinions!
personally I have some 14-15 1911. I can't think of a single one that has a trigger pull under 4 pounds, most are closer to 4 1/2 -5 pounds.
at these poundages to me its more important to have a smooth trigger with a crisp break than a lower poundage, but then again that MY likes.
Now I do have a couple of Tanfoglio Elite Match single actions that have like a 3 1/2 pounder and a slightly less than 3 1/2 pound trigger, but honestly there is no way other than last resort that I would do anything except range play with those 2.
and yes they are very near 1911 in operation being single action and thumb safety.
personally I have some 14-15 1911. I can't think of a single one that has a trigger pull under 4 pounds, most are closer to 4 1/2 -5 pounds.
at these poundages to me its more important to have a smooth trigger with a crisp break than a lower poundage, but then again that MY likes.
Now I do have a couple of Tanfoglio Elite Match single actions that have like a 3 1/2 pounder and a slightly less than 3 1/2 pound trigger, but honestly there is no way other than last resort that I would do anything except range play with those 2.
and yes they are very near 1911 in operation being single action and thumb safety.
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It is possible, you will have to ream the hole in the frame as you plan and than a standard size sear pin will work.
I have, and many others I shoot with have, 1911 platforms with trigger pulls 2.5# and less. We shoot USPSA, these are not carry guns, and wouldn't reccomend lite triggers for carry. If I can get the trigger down to 3# and consistent on a TAURUS, I will be happy.
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ahh yea!
it might have helped in the first post or so IF you had mentioned that you were setting up a competition only weapon.
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The 1911 Olympic Armorer I was talking to was talking about competition 1911s. He said that 1911s with less than a 3 pound pull are dangerous. He said a ND was almost certain. But what the heck does he know, at that time I think he had only been the top 1911 armorer for 2 Olympics. I never asked how many he went to as the #2 armorer.
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ROFLMA, a Glock Armorer is like those people who tell you they are IT experts, but all they know is Windows.I can't add or subtract from this as I live near Smyrna so the only armorers that I know or ever see here are Glock Armorers!------layingball:
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